8 January 2025

Hoyt and Shahar tick Lucid Dreaming (8C)

Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, who was #7 and #12 in his two last World Cups, have sent Lucid Dreaming (8C) in Buttermilks. Adam has during the last five months done his first four 8Cโ€™s. โ€This real? Or just dreaming? Most meaningful ascent yet. Means the world to me. Proud.โ€

We got the full story from Austin as well as a picture of him. (c) Taylor Bolt

โ€My story with lucid started a long time ago, I remember watching the Reel Rock segment with it getting climbed and being super inspired. Fast forward to my first trip to Bishop, standing under the grips I knew I had to try. I managed to climb the high start โ€œRastaman Vibrationsโ€ relatively quick that season. I knew it was game on. I ended up dedicating 5 more days to the full line only sticking the pinch from the ground once.

On trip two I only had one goal, Lucid Dreaming. I tried for about a month consistently sticking the pinch and falling on the jump. One night Ross Fulkerson inspired me to try a double clutch dyno method and I managed to stick it in iso. I got closer and closer having my last burn of the trip be my closest.

This year my tactics were a little different. I trained on the sim [replica] a bit and just felt all around much stronger. When I showed up this year I repeated all the moves first try on my first session. Day two on it this year I managed to do the โ€œtwo move linkโ€, linking the move to the pinch and the jump. I gave it two ground burns that night and got agonizingly close. On the third session of the trip I knew I was ready and took it down first try of the day. It felt surreal climbing the slab and I was rewarded with the prettiest sunset Iโ€™ve ever seen in Bishop.โ€
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