
8 January 2025
Hoyt and Shahar tick Lucid Dreaming (8C)
Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, who was #7 and #12 in his two last World Cups, have sent
Lucid Dreaming (8C) in Buttermilks. Adam has during the last five months done his first four 8Cโs. โThis real? Or just dreaming? Most meaningful ascent yet. Means the world to me. Proud.โ
We got the full story from Austin as well as a picture of him. (c) Taylor Bolt
โMy story with lucid started a long time ago, I remember watching the Reel Rock segment with it getting climbed and being super inspired. Fast forward to my first trip to Bishop, standing under the grips I knew I had to try. I managed to climb the high start โRastaman Vibrationsโ relatively quick that season. I knew it was game on. I ended up dedicating 5 more days to the full line only sticking the pinch from the ground once.
On trip two I only had one goal, Lucid Dreaming. I tried for about a month consistently sticking the pinch and falling on the jump. One night Ross Fulkerson inspired me to try a double clutch dyno method and I managed to stick it in iso. I got closer and closer having my last burn of the trip be my closest.
This year my tactics were a little different. I trained on the sim [replica] a bit and just felt all around much stronger. When I showed up this year I repeated all the moves first try on my first session. Day two on it this year I managed to do the โtwo move linkโ, linking the move to the pinch and the jump. I gave it two ground burns that night and got agonizingly close. On the third session of the trip I knew I was ready and took it down first try of the day. It felt surreal climbing the slab and I was rewarded with the prettiest sunset Iโve ever seen in Bishop.โ
We got the full story from Austin as well as a picture of him. (c) Taylor Bolt
โMy story with lucid started a long time ago, I remember watching the Reel Rock segment with it getting climbed and being super inspired. Fast forward to my first trip to Bishop, standing under the grips I knew I had to try. I managed to climb the high start โRastaman Vibrationsโ relatively quick that season. I knew it was game on. I ended up dedicating 5 more days to the full line only sticking the pinch from the ground once.
On trip two I only had one goal, Lucid Dreaming. I tried for about a month consistently sticking the pinch and falling on the jump. One night Ross Fulkerson inspired me to try a double clutch dyno method and I managed to stick it in iso. I got closer and closer having my last burn of the trip be my closest.
This year my tactics were a little different. I trained on the sim [replica] a bit and just felt all around much stronger. When I showed up this year I repeated all the moves first try on my first session. Day two on it this year I managed to do the โtwo move linkโ, linking the move to the pinch and the jump. I gave it two ground burns that night and got agonizingly close. On the third session of the trip I knew I was ready and took it down first try of the day. It felt surreal climbing the slab and I was rewarded with the prettiest sunset Iโve ever seen in Bishop.โ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
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