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Wet Dream 8A+ by Katie Lamb

Friday, 20 November

Wet Dream 8A+ by Katie Lamb

Katie Lamb, who last summer did six 8B's, has done Wet Dream 8A+ in Black Velvet Canyon. In the 8a ranking game, she is #5.

"Wet dream is the most water boulder in the canyon, so I had to be aquatic with my movement - flowing like water, splashing like a whale. During the moment of sending my friends say they felt a flutter in their heart and a twinkle in their eyes. The boulder of my dreams, occupying my every thought. After sending I put all my money on red and also black in the local casino. Now the girls are doing Wet Dreams too :)"

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Supercrackinette 9a+ by Seb Berthe

Friday, 20 November

Supercrackinette 9a+ by Seb Berthe

Seb Berthe, who had a personal 8c+ personal best six months ago, reports on Insta that he has done Supercrackinette 9a+ in St Léger. The Belgium is famous for all his big wall adventures around the globe. (c) Julia Cassou Full length interview at Fanatic Climbing.

"It’s my second route in the 9th gr ade, I also climbed “Speed integral” this summer, but may be you missed that because I repeated it very quickly (laugh)! Whatever the grade, it’s all the time incredible to send a route at your limits, with some physical and mental abilities required. After the send, you understand all the things you put together for clipping the anchor. The most complicated the process is, the strongest is the happyness at the end! It’s not the 9th grade which is bringing to me some joy, but the energy I put in the project."

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I was by myself and yes, it was a bit scary. I practiced it with rope a couple of times. It was tricky but safe. But coming from the bottom I was shaking. So before starting I got back to the car to take more pads and I was always ready to fall properly. A nice process as I felt I had to stay focus also on the fall upthere in the mantle.

Here you have Niky Ceria's Insta comments after having done the second ascent of Jimmy Webb's Ephyra 8C+ in Chironico. The Italian, who also recently did The Story of Two Worlds 8C, has probably done a handfull 8C's but we never know as he the last four years never has included grades on his FAs or repeats.

Thursday, 19 November

Ephyra 8C+ by Niky Ceria

I was by myself and yes, it was a bit scary. I practiced it with rope a couple of times. It was tricky but safe. But coming from the bottom I was shaking. So before starting I got back to the car to take more pads and I was always ready to fall properly. A nice process as I felt I had to stay focus also on the fall upthere in the mantle.

Here you have Niky Ceria's Insta comments after having done the second ascent of Jimmy Webb's Ephyra 8C+ in Chironico. The Italian, who also recently did The Story of Two Worlds 8C, has probably done a handfull 8C's but we never know as he the last four years never has included grades on his FAs or repeats.

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Black Water 8A+ by Karoline Sinnhuber

Thursday, 19 November

Black Water 8A+ by Karoline Sinnhuber

Karoline Sinnhuber has done her eleventh 8A+ the last year, Black Water in Zillertal. In the 8a ranking game, the former competition climber is #8. "Never thought I would be able to climb this one! Total nemesis boulder due to all the shoulder moves, but somehow it worked out quite well and I'm pretty stoked about it :D comparing to other 8A+ this one felt quite hard." Full video on her Insta. (c) Fabian Leu

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Thursday, 19 November

Female qualification

Thursday, 19 November

Male Qualification

"I planned to stay one week in Font during the autumn holiday but with the lockdown I could stay one week more. It was two awesome weeks with really good conditions; sunny, windy and cold weather and my sport dispensation made these outdoor sessions legal. The objective was to finish some classics and to try some hard boulders. During the first week I completed the first part of my objective with some classics like Ubik, La Merveille or Gourmandise (the short one). The second week was a success with 2 8B+ (Mécanique Elémentaire and Gecko sit). I did the first one in one session and the second one in 5 tries, one year after the stand start.

Wednesday, 18 November

Girard's Font trip with 7 boulders 8A to 8B+

"I planned to stay one week in Font during the autumn holiday but with the lockdown I could stay one week more. It was two awesome weeks with really good conditions; sunny, windy and cold weather and my sport dispensation made these outdoor sessions legal. The objective was to finish some classics and to try some hard boulders. During the first week I completed the first part of my objective with some classics like Ubik, La Merveille or Gourmandise (the short one). The second week was a success with 2 8B+ (Mécanique Elémentaire and Gecko sit). I did the first one in one session and the second one in 5 tries, one year after the stand start.

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The Understanding 8C by Clément Lechaptois

Wednesday, 18 November

The Understanding 8C by Clément Lechaptois

Clément Lechaptois has done his third 8C, The Understanding in Magic Wood. "All time bloc from Nalle! Cannot get much better than this." Full story on his Insta and Fanatic Climbing has a full length interview. (c) Marine Thevenet

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Wednesday, 18 November

Andreas Blues 8c+ (8b+) by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (15)

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who previously has done eight routes 8c+ and 9a, has done Cedric Lachat's Andreas Blues in Citidibi. Cedric put it up as an 8b+ but the 15-year-old thinks it is 8c+. "8c++++ :)))A beast power endurance climb! Spent like two goes to figure out the beta and then circa 10 goes to stick the very last dyno move) Sent it at night with a headlamp, which actually turned out to be the perfect conditions for getting into the famous flow state. A really intuitive and pure climb, super recommended! 15 meters of hard and crimpy moves without rest."

"Even though it's getting harder and harder to visit famous crags in Europe because of the quarantine, Turkey is still open for everybody and can provide awesome climbing conditions, so now is the time to give it a try and discover the beauty and hard projects of these magnificent crags thoroughly developed by Tobias and Duygu Haug, as well as Öztürk Kayikci, Zorbey Aktuyun, Mümin Karabas and all the locals!" More comments and pics by Damien on his Insta.

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