Joes in Bros Valley from Cold House Media on Vimeo.

Lets go way back to spring of 2013. Feeling frisky after a weekend in Boulder for SCS Nationals, homies and bros Paul Robinson and Josh Larson head to Southern Utah's gem, Joes Valley, for a few days of hikin' up forks and walkin' up boulders.

CLIMBS:
Beyond Life - V10
The Last Great One - V13
Slasher - V13
Worm Turns - V11
Black Daliah - V10
Insurgency - V14

Music: Gold Panda - You

Two 8c+ in Siurana by Lukasz Dudek

Lukasz Dudek has done two great 8c+ in Siurana, El rastro "One of the best in my life! Last day, last try" and La furia de la noche "Probably FA, Dani Andrada project. In total, Lukasz has done 23 8c+ and ten 9a's. In the Combined ranking game, he is #5.

Jules Marchaland did Punt'X (9a+) last year. "Puntx was a hard mental battle for me, I fell 20 times on the last two moves (and they are not super hard). It was a bit like a dream route for me because when I was younger I always saw some strong climbers trying the route. I did it in 18 sessions and …

Gogor a “must” in your backpack

Advertorial: Climbing Gogor is a small device that allows you to exercise the phalanges of your fingers. This is very important in activities such as climbing,…

Jan Hojer in even better shape 2014

Jan hojer who is #3 in the 8a ranking game took a great victory in the first Boulder WC of 2014. Last year he was #8 after having won one event. (c) Eddie Fowke How come you tried the first boulder 24 times instead of saving energy? I kept trying the first dyno over and over again because I desperately wanted to have an advantage going into the other boulders especially the last one! Trying a boulder 14 times in 4 minutes might be a little uncommon, but if you compete against Dmitrii who is so much stronger, it requires weird tactics and (even more important) a lot of luck! Have you done any specific training to be better prepared 2014? This year I wanted to take the preparation for the WC's a bit more seriously, because I wasn't in good shape last year when the season started. I stretched more, ate healthier and climbed in more different gyms before we flew to China

markel mendieta has done the FA of Lurragorri 8C in Araotz. If this is his first 8C we do not know but he has done at least a dozen 8B+.

8c+ FA by Chris Zehani (39)

Chris Zehani has done his third 8c+ FA the last year, Fox et Sashidananda in Orgon which is link-up between an 8b and Sashidananda 9a. "There are 42 ultra resistant moves without rest and it is for sure 8c+. It took me a lot of tries and a lot of time... but I am 40 years old (in June!) and now many routes take more tries and time than before. Another thing. Gerome Pouvreau redpointed Sashidanada in 2009 and graded it 9a. It is for sure too hard for me but I think it's more a 9a+ which many strong climbers also think.

1. Jan hojer 4t26 4b24 - Juliane Wurm 3t6 3b6 2. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov 3t5 3b5 - Shauna Coxsey 3t7 4b10 3. Jorg Verhoeven 2t9 2b9 - Akiyo Noguchi 3t12 4b13 4. James Kassay 1t1 1b1 - Alex Puccio 2t4 3b5 5. Guillaume Mondet 1t3 2b2 - Anna Stöhr 2t10 3b11 Jan Hojer and Juliane Wurm won both their second WC and in fact the first time, Innsbruck 2013, it was also a double German victory. Hojer needed 14 tries to get the bonus and top out the first problem.Juliane had secured the victory before she started the last problem. During the last twelve WC's, the worst result for Anna Stöhr was #2 and in now, she was #5 after having won the semifinal. Overall, nine of the Top-10 are 8a members. Stay tuned for a more detailed WC report.

9a FA by Michael Piccolruaz (18)

Michael Piccolruaz has done the FA of Helmutant in Saustall and sticks out his chin by suggesting 9a although he his personal best is 8b+ for both routes and boulders. "Yess! So happy to have climbed this amazing piece of rock. The route definitely fits my style perfectly. Really short and really bouldery :-) Nevertheless it all felt super hard and I had a lot of luck to keep the moves together up to the top. About the grade: I have never tried anything before what was nearly as hard as this project, but to be honest I haven't even tried anything really hard before. So I can not compare this route to other routes. Moreover I have zero experience in grading routes. All in all I just can say that I had to give everything to climb this project.

8b again by Angie Scarth-Johnson (9)

Angie Scarth-Johnson finishing of her three weeks break from school by, on her last day, make an amazing send of Zona X 8b in Margalef. Last year the 9 year old had another long break from school going to Red River Gorge doing her first 8b. The amazing thing is that her parents do not climb and she has no trainer, but her father has become an excellent belayer giving soft falls. " I very rarely let anyone else belay me. I get to nervous, I can't make the move. I feel safe with my dad and I never worry." How did you prepare for the trip and how could you take so many days of from school? I trained myself in Australia by climbing long routes to prepare for the endurance, because everyone told me that the routes were really long in Spain. I also trained indoor bouldering. This was really lucking because my favorite area in Margalef to climb was El Laboratori and many of the climbs here were short and bouldery, so I was kind of prepared, but I have never climbed limestone before, so that took a bit of getting use to. I have been very lucky that my school allows me to take some time off, but we had Easter holidays for two weeks. The school gives my mum books and home work for me to do, while I am away, but she is also a teacher so it helps. How much help from others did you have to find the best sequence? I worked it out on my own, but I did have a lot of people suggest a couple of different sequences, big people beta and heaps of encouragement. I mostly always work routes out on my own.