Mathieu Bouyoud has done his 9a #25, Le Cadafist 9a in St Legér. It was bolted by Guillaume Lebret and Gérôme Pouvreau made the FA. The name come from the risk of hitting "Le Cade" which is the name of the tree, in the picture, in French. Up to the tree it is a short 8a which is hard to avoid so normally you end up sitting on it. Then the route just gets harder and harder. "Finally the top sequence is done. Superb impressive line."
Mathieu said he worked the route for two weeks and that he fell at the very top a couple of times. He is working full-time construction climbing gyms in France as well as running a family. The somewhat under-the-radar 31-year-old has also onsighted 81 routes between 8b to 8c.
Will Bosi, who has been in Spain since December, has done the FA of King Capella 9b+ in Siurana, bolted by David Brasco. In total it took ten sessions. On this trip he also did the FA of La Furia de Jabali 9b (bolted by Beto Rocasolano) and Last Night 9a (bolted by Dani Andrada), in the same area.
“King Capella has the same style of the area with a series of boulder problems stacked on top of one another however this route was another level for me. For comparison, it took me three sessions to complete La Capella (9b, last March), whereas it took me three sessions to unlock the first sequence on King Capella. “With powerful moves that don’t let up and having big all points off moves, King Capella was like I got to be Chris Sharma for a day, it was amazing!
After Moscow [European Championships and last Olympic qualification], the purpose of the training trip was to firstly reset after a long and tough Olympic campaign and secondly to put in a base level preparation for the upcoming IFSC World Cup lead season. Spain as the some of the highest concentration of hard sport climbing and I was also able to project first ascents in order to force myself to try unconventional beta to solve hard problems which is similar to what appears in World Cups.”
Alex Megos comments"I tried two of this FA's there and they are hard! Both of them 9b for sure. The one he thought was easier I couldn't do one move. On "King Capella" I did all the moves, but linking then will be very hard. I'd be super psyched to go and try to repeat his routes at some point! 😁 Very strong lad 💪🏼."
On top of Will’s first ascents, he amassed a staggering tick list with notable repeats including First Ley 9a+, Ley Indignata 9a and Estadio Critico 9a. Will kept his bouldering in check with establishing a new 8C boulder in Siurana (cleaned by Dave Graham) as well as repeating Bhai Bon 8B+, Bhai Po 8B+, Bhai Kakata 8B+/C and Bhai Ji 8B+.
Overall, only Adam Ondra and Alex Megos, in the history of climbing have made such amazing comparable tick lists on a climbing trip. In Moscow, Bosi qualified to the final as #3 after having won in Bouldering and in the final he was #8.
Nico Pelorson reports on Insta that he has done the second ascent of Simon Lorenzi's Soudain Seul 9a in Fontainebleau. No grade comment by the 23-year-old who previously has done the second ascent of another 9A, No Kpote only giving it 8C as his personal grade. (c) Denis Si
Nico did The Big Island 8C, the stand start of Soudain Seul, in 2018 and has been working it from the sit during this winter. He has previously done more than a handful 9a's and previously commented to 8a, "I prefer route climbing but maybe I am a better boulderer."
Lucie Hrozová has done her second 8A+ in Petrohrad in just a week,
Ramínka v prázdný skříni, and this time it just took 40 min. It was put up by Rosta Stefanek and has been repeated a handful of times. " I was so surprised :D, I even had not tried or cleaned the upper part. I didn't plan to go to the top, but it is only hard first moves and since I did the start I was like okay, I will try to climb it to the top 😅."
The 14 times Ice WC medalist does not want to comment and says, "I also stop writing hard or soft because I really just don't want to think so much about grades and analyse that much ;) but for me personally obviously relatively easy."
Martina Demmel continues her rampage in Oliana by onsighting her first 8b+, Los Humildes pa casa. The almost 50 m classic was put up by Dani Andrada in 2004 as an 8c. All 43 individuals who have star marked the route have given it five stars. "No words for how much this means to me! Feels so crazy good when everything luckily works out perfectly during that only ONE chance:) especially on such a tufa kingline with tons of kneebars! The pump almost threw me off on the final slab... Thx Blondi for cheering me up to fulfil a little dream:)"
Then one hour later, the 19-year-old redpointed another Oliana 50 meter stunner, Joe Blau, on her third go. It was bolted by Joe Kinder, and none out of the 29 recorded ascents have marked it as soft. "Seems like once the sending train is rolling, it's not that easy to stop again;) This was literally one of the most unexpected sends ever by still being pumped from the onsight an hour before but therefore I had the right commitment and flow in my movements! Mostly about getting through the resistance lower half but mentally it just starts there and isn't over till you survived the top slab! 3rd try in total but the first real attempt from the ground after sticking the jump! What a surreal day!!!"
Martina, who started climbing in 2017, first appeared on 8a one year ago with the headline Amazing progress via onsight and outdoor focus. "In spring 2018, I had enough of these dusty gyms and since then I'm only climbing on rock. I only climb on rock, I don't do any other training for power or endurance. But I do a lot of stretching every day which helps me pretty much especially because I'm quite small (1,57m)."
During the last year, she has recorded 858 ascents in total out of which 70% onsight. Last year she was the first female in the 8a history who was #1 in a ranking game. Today, she is totally superior in the Top-50 onsight ranking game. Noteworthy is that the only other climber showing such an onsight focus on 8a is Adam Ondra in an interview in 2004 being 11-years-old.
Arabella Jariel, who earlier this winter has flashed her first 7C+, has done Collateral Impact 8A (+) in Gunks.(c) Jennie Jariel
"I first tried Collateral in January, but I didn’t start projecting it seriously until early this month. Although I figured out most of the moves early on, it took me four sessions to finally piece it all together. My first few attempts today felt terrible, and I couldn't even stick the crux move in isolation. Had one decent go from the bottom, so I decided to just go for it. By some miracle, I stuck the crux and found myself at the top."
Please say something about your climbing background?
I’ve been climbing for over 12 years, but I mostly focused on competitions. With COVID and having recently moved closer to outdoor areas, I’ve gotten the chance to find some projects on real rock.
Dave Graham reports on Insta that he has done First Ley 9a+ in Margalef. This high class route was put up by Chris Sharma and is an easier left exit to First Round First Minute 9b. (c) Andrew Pawlby
Did you find any new kneebars?
For my beta I only use one new kneebar that Jorge (Diaz-Rullo) found. But I cant really put it in the same way as Jorge so it was helpful but not enough hahaha.
Theres a very key hold that broke off in the crux which makes it definitely harder. It was the horizontal crimp you jumped too in all the famous photos. Its completely gone, now theres just a diagonal slopey edge. So there may be a new kneebar but we are missing a key hold haha!!!
"At the end of the sesh I did the last boulder of FR from the rest to the anchor feeling solid, so now I’m super motivated to go back give it some proper burns!! Felt great in La Capella and Furia de Jabali the past couple of days, the two other 9b’s I want to do, so finally feeling some momentum behind my climbing after what seems like a lot of months of trying really hard with very little progress 🙌🏻"
In a previous Insta post, the 39-year-old has stated that ten years ago he could not do any of the moves om FRFM. Dave did Action Directe as his first 9a in 2001 and since he has been one of the leading rock climbers in the world. Last year, he did his first-ever 9b, and in total he has done some 25 routes 9a and harder. He has also done some 20 8C boulders.
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