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Rainshadow 9a by Luke Dawson

Luke Dawson, who previously has done seven 8c+, has done Rainshadow (9a) in Malham, after trying it for five years.

Graham (40) does 4-Lo (8C) and keeps shining (like a crystal)

Graham (40) does 4-Lo (8C) and keeps shining (like a crystal)

David Graham has recently turned 40, but he is climbing better than ever. On Insta he just reported that he did the second ascent of Daniel Wood's 4-Lo, 8C. Next season he says he is going for 9A. ”I'm very close on a few problems! Notably, one project which could be 8C+, Rustica, 8C as well as a few others 8B+/C.

How can you still progress after 20+ years as a pro climber?
I feel stronger honestly! 😅😅😅, 🤔🤔🤔. Not sure why?? Maybe smarter??? Healthier lifestyle. Ah just eating better, no partying, lots of good rest!! Better attitude about climbing, more patient and also less concerned with conditions. Always finding new solutions, not getting angry. In the past, I would get much more frustrated when I would fail or not do well. These days I think I'm so used to failing that I'm surprised when I succeed. I do boulders that are really my antistyle too. So I assume they should be hard but I think it really helped my mental game, to push longer and harder. Never get pissed, it is not wise!!! I am feeling strong!! But four months of trying hard has been tough, I took the last two weeks kind of easy as the weather was finally bad 😅🤣

What is next?
Hoping to finish strong this last month. I climb 5 or 6 days out of 7 often. We had such perfect weather!! I am also trying some very sick projects. There's just so much to do here, this season is a good start at catching up. I have just a few more hard ones in Bavona to complete then, I'm on to new things.
I'm hoping to buy a home here in Ticino and someday I would like to be a pro crystal hunter, haha. My hobby is searching for crystals and minerals!! You can do it professionally too!! It makes for 🤪 very good active rest days. I love it !!!!! Keeps me sane! And thinking!!! Gotta be sharp!! And you learn a lot about geology and SAFETY hahaha. Like, don't do stupid shit!! I will start searching next week We dig holes in the ground.

(It should be mentioned that this interview is put together from a chat. Once you get the wizard going, you get at least 10 messages a minute. There's nobody even close to being able to push "Enter" that often. It is very hard to keep up filling in with "likes", "why" and "how do you mean" etc. If he gets passionate about something, you just try to hang on to that roller coaster.

On a personal note, my best flash ever was done when he fooled me into trying a 7c that was my anti-style. I was just going to check out the moves... then Dave got into his "Enter" mode and started shouting beta and telling me and the whole crowd that I can do it. I do remember hitting the one finger pocket almost dynamic, realizing it is very shallow. From that point I am blank but I still remember clipping the anchor and directly understanding that I had injured that finger. This happened in Kalymnos and I could not climb for the next five days, but I couldn't stop grinning!/Jens Larssen)

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Advertorial: For the SS2022 collection, La Sportiva releases the new version of the Katana Laces shoe, which enriches the climbing category and is presented as …

Lena Müller "ecopoints" 350 km on a bike to climb two dream cracks

Last year, we made an interview with Lena Müller and the ecological crises. She is currently doing a PhD at the University of Innsbruck about the effects of climate change on mountain ecosystems. In the documentary video she takes her bike 350 km to climb two dream cracks.

Janja trains almost only on a spraywall

"I do 95 % of the training on the wall. I am not doing any finger boarding. I am not doing any fitness. I am training six times a week for four hours on the spray wall and that is it. I kept repeating to myself, "if I am not having fun, then I will not win". It is as simple as that." Janja also thin…

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Advertorial: Another Play in Paradise is a spicy route, one of 129 that traverse the south-facing slopes of the Lienz Dolomites in 5 sectors ranging in difficul…

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A Maze of Death 8A+ by Andi Stull

A Maze of Death 8A+ by Andi Stull

Andi Stull has done A Maze of Death (8A+) in Bishop (CA). The 25-year-old started climbing only in 2016 when she was getting out of an eating disorder. She did her first 8A, less than two years ago and now she has done eight including two 8A+. "Over the time I have been climbing, I have recognized that being strong and healthy is far more important than being "light” and will lead to greater physical and mental victories."

Could you tell us more about your latest 8A+ ascent?
It actually took me quite a few sessions! This one turned into an unexpected nemesis for me. I tried a lot of different betas for this climb, but I didn’t seem to fit well for any of them. It took me quite a while to figure out my own beta that worked for me. I was dealing with a few minor injuries, so it was mentally taxing to work around them. However, I ended up day flashing yesterday and felt like I was floating up the boulder! It was a magical feeling for sure!

How did you warm up before sending it on your first try in the session?
That boulder kind of stands alone, so there aren’t really any other boulders to climb around on to warm up. I actually just started using a fingerboard to warm up, which was super helpful to use before this climbs since it’s so crimpy. I also made sure to stretch my hips a lot to prepare for the splits move.

EPIC: Ondra sends Bomba 9b and Bombardino 9a+/9b above Arco

Adam Ondra started bolting a line in Bus de la Stria in the vicinity of Arco ten years ago but abandoned it as he could not find a sequence getting through the crux. Trying it again in 2022 he made the FA of first one 9a+/b and then also the FA of Bomba (9b). "One of the most epic moments of my climbing! Very unexpected. I though it would be 9b+, but unfortunately after only few days of work it cannot be 9b+. Very bouldery, very reachy and very crimpy. Love it! Definitely upper end of 9b in my opinion."

In the epic video, with absolutely stunning scenary above Arco and Lago di Garda, we can see that he twice did skip two bolts and being super thrilled and excited making qoutes like, "Oh my god! It was just the strength of my will.... I think the route is absolutely epic."

Cordia Maleficarum 9a by Ana Belen Argudo

Cordia Maleficarum 9a by Ana Belen Argudo

Ana Belen Argudo reports on Insta that she has done Cordia Maleficarum 9a in Cuenca. It was bolted by Dani Andrada and then Alex Garriga did the FA in 2020. The just 20-year-old has previously done six 8c's and one 8c+. Since 2016, she has been competing actively on the IFSC youth scene and she got her best ever results in the Youth World's last year by being #7 in the Combined event. (c) Javi Pec

"I started trying the route on March 5 and sent it on April 6. I needed 32 attempts. The process was difficult because of the rain and freezing temperatures. The weather in March was very very complicated in the whole country as you would see in the LaSportiva video by Javi Pec that will drop out soon that has sick images about the month which was total crazy even with snow and Javi was with me almost every day and captured all the process and the uncut send. The process was intense because months ago our Van got crushed by a distracted driver that hit us and we didn’t get the van back yet. so to try the route We drove 2 hours to Cuenca and 2 hours back to Madrid with my boyfriend who can’t climb at the moment due to an injury, with deferents cars that cousins lend us, or by bus, just to give one or to try to the route, and even having to come back to Madrid without being able to try the route due to the rain. Overcoming the uncertainty was also a challenge too.

For 2022 my plans and ambitions are to continue on this same line, to keep developing and professionalizing my career on the rocks. I hope to get my van back and to be able to put all my efforts into the projects with my boyfriend and keep raising the level. For example, now I’m trying 'El Intento' 9a in Cuenca as well, I hope to be able to send it before summer and after this one depending on the resources that we have, we will go for one project or another, but for sure I will go for routes that inspires and challenge me and I will try to leave nice footage that could inspire the next generation. This is just starting."

Esclatamasters 8c+/9a by Moritz Welt

Esclatamasters 8c+/9a by Moritz Welt

Moritz Welt has done a quick ascent of Escalatamasters 8c+/9a in Perles. "5 tries. crazy rock quality and some of the sharpest crimps I know on the upper half, lost lots of blood on the send^^ honestly, idk about the grade, so I'll just give it a personal 8c+/9a."

How come you have mainly focused on "easier" routes this trip? (Ten 8b+ and harder in three weeks)
Well, I broke my foot in January and wasn't climbing for two months so the first two weeks were mostly about getting back in shape. On the other hand, I started projecting some harder stuff about 1 week ago ;)

How did you break your foot?
I was bouldering in Ticino and had a bad fall

Japan male double in Meiringen

Japan male double in Meiringen

In a very exciting final, Toma Narasaki won ahead of Yoshiyuki Ogata both from Japan. Narasaki was second last out on the last boulder and by topping it he moved him from sixth to first position. Last out was Kokoro Fujii, who won the semi, with a chance of winning by topping it but as he could not even reach the zone, he was sixth.

All boulders were topped at the same time as everyone but Colin Duffy failed one zone. The third boulder was only done by Paul Jenft and Duffy but they needed 12 and 19 attempts respectively, to reach the zone and then they both continued directly to the top. Complete results

From IFSC; “I feel that the energy of the audience generated my power and finally I could reach the top. That was an amazing moment for me!” said Narasaki. “The target for this season is quite obvious for me – to be a third time overall [Boulder] champion. I found today that the style of Boulder routesetting seems to be more dynamic, so maybe I need to make some adjustments for the coming competitions,” he added.