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Wild Publico 9a by Vojtěch Trojan

Wild Publico 9a by Vojtěch Trojan

Vojta Trojan, who previously has done six 9a's, has sent Wild Publico (9a) in Margalef. "Sick route! Love the style.. definitely softer for me, but it depends on the style you prefer, could be hard for some people I guess. Never fell in the boulder, but managed to drop the upper section after the rest 2 times tho :Dd" (c) Maja Maatz

Can you tell us more about your trip and the send?
I came back to Margalef just for a week to check out some projects before the usual month winter trip. Surprisingly I could send the Wild Publico pretty fast, so one project down! :) I tried a bit for 2 days in the sun (horrible conditions) then the clouds came and I managed to fall two times after the upper rest. On the fifth day, I sent it straight away. The route consists of a bouldery start crux (around 8A/A+ boulder) leading into 8c (Pal Publico). The start fits me well so it was just a matter of time to finish the upper part! Happy to send it and looking forward to the next round in December! Shout out to Tom Bolger for bolting the start - one of the best sequences I climbed on the rocks!

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MORE NEWS

Zeleputsa 9a+ by Gorka Karapeto (41)

Zeleputsa 9a+ by Gorka Karapeto (41)

Gorka Karapeto reports on Insta that he has done Zelenputza (9a+) in Ilarduia. It was the Pou brothers who bolted it and then Jonathan Flor did the FA in 2021.

In practice, it is a link-up of Celedon txiki (8c+) and Harroputza (9a). Gorka did his first 9a in 2008 and his tenth and last, Harroputza, in 2019. (c) Borja Iban

Zvěřinec 9b+ by Adam Ondra

Zvěřinec 9b+ by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has done the FA of Zvěřinec (9b+) (Menagerie) in Holstejn. He says that he did it on his first go on Sunday after having warmed up at home, as it was zero degrees and overcast. In total, Adam has now done four 9b+ and one 9c FAs. (c) Petr Chodura

Second hardest route of my life, quite a bit harder than other 9b+ I have done or tried. Harder start into Perlorodka (my FA from 2011 that I graded 9a+ but it is probably more 9b - I just did not want to skip a grade in my homecrag). It is a linkup, but toally worth it in my opinion. There is a 9a called Kostej Nesmrtelny finishing in the last rest before the 8B+ crux of Perlorodka. Kostej + Perlorodka would be amazing direct line, but there is a very good rest halfway up of Kostej, so that is why I make a detour to the right through crux of Kudlanka (oldschool 8b+). That makes it harder and more resistant. 9a+ plus rest plus 8B+ boulder.”

Cinderella is Dead 8A+ (B) by Alex Johnson and Allison Vest

Cinderella is Dead 8A+ (B) by Alex Johnson and Allison Vest

Alex Johnson and Allison Vest have done Cinderella is Dead (8B) in Ogden. Both women are having their best year ever having sent some ten boulders 8A+ and harder the last 12 months.

Alex: "Psyched about this one! When Vest and I first started trying this together we each literally couldn’t do any moves haha. It was one of those climbs that just came together a little more each session, in true projecting fashion. We put a few days of work in together but ultimately each sent solo on back-to-back days which was pretty cool. Very stoked to keep checking more off the list, and keep the send train chugging along together. It’s so motivating to have a best friend you can project with at your limit."

Allison: "Such an experience to project this one with AJ. The first time we tried this boulder together we legit could barely do a single move between the two of us. This boulder gets graded all over the place but even with all the varieties of betas we still both thought it felt very hard and it took us both about half a dozen sessions. We projected it together a lot but in the end, we sent on back-to-back days up there alone because our schedules didn’t quite line up. Love projecting with Alex, it makes me a better climber."

Two 8c+ by Erwan Legrand (14)

Two 8c+ by Erwan Legrand (14)

Erwan Legrand has done Le Brillant Saoulé (8c+) and Dévers Sévère (8c+) in Buoux. The latter was a FA of a route he bolted together with his father Francois, who won four straight World Cups and three straight World Championships at the beginning of the 90s.

"The route is very physical and the first part is a real endurance test piece. You start with a traverse in a roof that ends with the best move in the world, a 360 rotation with no feet. I have taken 13 sessions to send the route."

So, you sent this climb barefoot?
I've been climbing barefoot on my wall at home since I was little, but I've always climbed outdoors with climbing shoes. I had tried this route for three sessions, and I thought it might be easier by climbing barefoot. Then I started climbing barefoot in it and it immediately felt better so I started trying to chain it but I was falling every time on the 360 move due to my lack of strength in my biceps. One day I managed to pass the 360 coming from the beginning and I arrived at the 7B+ boulder problem in the roof which I almost succeeded, but I fell at the last move of the crux. Then the days after, I still fell on the 360. And on my 13th session in the route, I went back to the 360 and managed the 7B+ and 7A boulder problem at the top of the route, with a very big fight.