Eva López the famous trainer and inventer of the Transgression hangboard, has done her first 8c+, Potemkin in Cuenca which she has bolted. (c) Javipec Already in 1999, she did her first 8b and being 35 she did her first 8c. Here is her trainingblog. More info to come of this remarkable effort that once again shows the uniqueness of climbing when it comes to age and performance for a physical sport. "We bolted the route in 2008, but apart from some weeks in 2011-12 I couldn't work it seriously until this summer. For me, Potemkin at first seemed to have some hard moves, but what allows you to do it is developing lots of endurance. The style is typical for hard routes in Cuenca: steep, long moves, scarce footholds and lots of sika to make up for the awful rock.

Adrian Chmiala has done his first 9a, Sprawa Honoru in Dolina Kluczwody which is a link up of three routes opened by Bogdan Rokosz in 2008. "10 days of work. 1st pitch is 8c, 2nd pitch is 8b+ without good rest. I did it at 8.30 p.m. with 5 lamps. My aim was to do 9a in this year. I made it, so I am very happy. (c) Adam Kokot

Having been together and talking with most of the the athletes during TNA Kalymnos Festival, here are some general positive reflections. (c) John Koullias 1. Almost no competition feeling. Everyone is sharing beta and cheering each other. They are like kids in the kindergarten. 2. Most planes or hopes to also do multi-pitch climbing in 2014. It seems part of the game is to try as many different disciplines of climbing as possible. 3. Several have plans to travel and open up new crags like Melissa Le Neve who is next going to Turkey for the 2014 Petzl Roc Trip, Klemen Becan who goes to Jordan in december and James Pearson/Caroline Ciavaldini who do it all the time. 4. Most do not follow any training program during summer and most also said they during the last years have been training less structured during winter. Anyhow, campus boarding is something many have on their scheme. 5. Many said that they do not plan or prioritize competitions but that they most likely will do some WCs in 2014. Only Anna Stöhr planned to do them all and Johanna Ernst will stop completely. 6. Most of the grade suggestions given by the route setting team were considered as sand bags so we saw several upgrades. 7. Caroline Ciavaldini, who won, used headlamp during the warming up to be able to take advantage of the best conditions when the second day started at 08.00. 8. The media professionality are at the highest level and sending Sasha DiGulian some follow up questions during the night, you get the answers, typed in her iPhone, before breakfast the next morning. Alex Megos did a very good job in the live-streaming interview.

Manuel Brunn has done The Essential 9a in Frankenjura after nine days of work. He started trying it this spring and then spent the summer doing easier trad climbing in USA. "This was my second 9a and I'm really surprised that it was possible for me to finish it. Even because I'm getting 35 this year and I still become better in climbing every year, even though I have to work beside climbing and don't train specifically... I assume that the main key for me is motivation. I'm more motivated now when I go climbing and give everything. Another key could be that my attitude towards climbing shifted somehow. Now I can see climbing more relaxed and there is not so much pressure by myself." (c) Markus Bauer

O relato do Ian está disponível no blog da Conquista.

Eva López a famosa treinadora e inventora do Transgression hangboard, mandou seu primeiro 8c+ (11b BR), Potemkin em Cuenca que ela equipou. Já em 1999, ela mandou seu primeiro 8b (10b BR) e com 35 anos ela fez o seu primeiro 8c (11a BR). Aqui está seu blog de treinamento. Mais informação deste esforço notável que mais uma vez mostra a singularidade de escalar quando se trata de idade e desempenho para um esporte físico.