LATEST NEWS

Rocklands bouldering in jeopardy

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Rocklands bouldering in jeopardy

Delaney Carpentor, the Chairperson for the Mountain Club of SA Rock Climbing Committee, Cape Town Section, has sent us a mail talking about the Rocklands bouldering in jeopardy. "The relationship between boulderers and the landowners of Rocklands has reached a boiling point. Tea Garden area has been closed to climbing by the landowner due to the damaging effects by boulderers on her farm and there is no guarantee that we will be able to have it reopened. The complete and utter disrespect boulderers have been showing the land on which they climb will no longer be tolerated by its landowners. More closures are pending and the Mountain Club of South Africa is doing all that it can to continue access for climbers but the more climbers disobey the rules and ignore the bans, the more difficult the negotiations for access will become. Access to Rocklands for boulderers was never a right but a privilege and the bouldering community has taken this privilege for granted and the landowners have no had enough. Read more on Climb ZA (c) Caroline Sinno trying The Hatchling.

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8B (+) flash by James Webb

James Webb has flashed A simple knowing at Topside giving it a personal grade of 8B although it was put up as an 8C with a different beta. During the last five weeks, "Jimmy" has flashed another two 8B's and a dozen boulders in the 8A range in Rocklands. For half of the flashes he has recorded personal grades. Jimmy is #4 in the ranking game but he is currently the best flash boulderer in the world. So what is your overall impression of the Rocklands bouldering? Incredible place. Such a vast amount of rock and there is still just so much room for developing. We saw tons of new stone and heard stories of "the next rocklands" that could be just around the corner. The cederburg mountains are insane.

EDITORIAL

by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief

Janja Garnbret only female to Top all 5 in Prague

Janja Garnbret, who missed the first three Boulder World Cups in 2023 due to a broken foot, was the only female to top all five qualification boulders in Prague. The other group was won by Futabo Ito. Noteworthy is that five of the Top-7 ranked after three events did not participate; Brooke Raboutou…

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The Wheel of Life, 8C/9a by Daniel Woods

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The Wheel of Life, 8C/9a by Daniel Woods

Daniel Woods has repeated Dai Koyamada's The Wheel of Life giving it a personal grade of 9a. The 24 year old leads the combined ranking game and for the last seven years he has always been Top-2". (c) Beau Kahler "Such an incredible climb... The ultimate adventure. The holds and moves are perfect. 60+ moves make up this monster. I had to get into an Enduro mindset to complete the Wheel. it all boiled down to the last shoulder breaker move at the end for me. Australia is incredible. Props to Dai Koyamada for his vision. It is in my top 3 roof/ adventure climbs that I have done. A sport climb without the bolts."

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Austria best in the Youth Euro Championship in Austria

Austria was the best nation in the Youth European Championship in Imst with five guys at the podium. Runner up were Slovenia and Russia with four medals. Hannes Puman (15) had been #3 if he had competed among the 19 years old's. Two years ago, the Swede was #41 and later #21 and #12. Last year he was #2 in four events including the World Championship. Six weeks ago he was #1 in Edingburgh. 94: Dmitry Fakiryanov RUS - Magdalena Röck AUT 96: Hannes Puman SWE - Jessica Pilz AUT 98: Stefano Carnati ITA - Janja Garnbret SLO

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9a by Ramonet in Margalef

Ramon Julian has done his 30th climb graded 9a or harder, Mejorando Imagen in Margalef, which took him seven tries over three days. One week ago, he won the first Lead WC of 2013. Ramónet is the most successful competition climber over the last ten years, and in the 8a ranking game he has always been Top-3.

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8c by Yana Chereshneva

Yana Chereshneva has done L'attrapeur d'ombres 8c in Freissinières on her second go. The Russian was the Youth Speed World Champion in both 2005 and 2006, and took the #4 spot in the Boulder World Championship in 2011.

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Céüse 8b+ by Mirko (12) and Ashima (11)

Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi are on a summer break in Europe and now they are challenging the lime stone in Céüse where both have done Slow Food 8b+. They have also both onsighted several 8a's and when it comes to flashes, Ashima has done Dolce Vita 8a+ and Mirko Slow Food right 8b.