LATEST NEWS

Euclase 8C+ by Dave Graham (40)

Euclase 8C+ by Dave Graham (40)

David Graham reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Euclase 8C+ in Ticino. "With 19 hand movements, 21 foot moves, and 4 kneebars, its a game of connecting body positions. It’s one of the most technical climbs I have ever encountered and challenged my ability to toe-hook, heel-hook, knee-bar, and footwork like, unlike any other boulder that I’ve tried in my life. The top-out adds a crimpy and dangerous no-fall-zone to the equation, completing the line with a real mental factor."

The 40-year-old has previously the last six months done five 8C's and actually he is peaking right now although being one of the leading rock climbers since 1999. Two months ago, we asked him, How can you still progress after 20+ years as a pro climber?
I feel stronger honestly! 😅😅😅, 🤔🤔🤔. Not sure why?? Maybe smarter??? Healthier lifestyle. Ah just eating better, no partying, lots of good rest!! Better attitude about climbing, more patient and also less concerned with conditions. Always finding new solutions, not getting angry. In the past, I would get much more frustrated when I would fail or not do well. These days I think I'm so used to failing that I'm surprised when I succeed. I do boulders that are really my antistyle too. So I assume they should be hard but I think it really helped my mental game, to push longer and harder. Never get pissed, it is not wise!!! I am feeling strong!! But four months of trying hard has been tough, I took the last two weeks kind of easy as the weather was finally bad 😅🤣

Evil Backwards 8B by Brooke Raboutou

Brooke Raboutou, #5 in the Tokyo Olympics, has done Evil Backwards (8B) in Mount Evans. ”Came here 5 years ago and watched Puccio send, thought it was too big for me but really just wasn’t strong enough lol! First go from the bottom :) fun crew, wonderful evening!”

In total, the 21-year-old has now done 15 boulders 8B or harder. In the 2022 World Cup she is currently #3 although having skipped the last event in Brixen. Coming up 22/6 is the Combined World Cup in Innsbruck followed by Lead in Vilars and Chamonix and possibly also Briancon 22/7.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


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MORE NEWS

Hades 9a and Fonax by Philipp Gaßner

Philipp Gaßner has done Fonax (8c+) and Hades (9a) in Nassereith. ”I am happy to have climbed Hades which is a great endurance test piece. It starts with moderate climbing and then leads to the crux section. The crux is about powerful moves on relatively good crimps and ends with a daring cross move. After that, you reach a saving rest and you can enjoy the easier exit on some lovely grey rock. So it’s very fun to climb!”

Pungitopo 8c+/9a by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra did Pungitopo (9a) in Red Point Wall in March. "Bolted by Francesco Morandi. Epic line, epic rock! Hard to say the grade, tried one day with soft skin and wrong beta, then did it next day with better beta. Could be 8c+."

Daños con-laterales 8C+ FA by Nacho Sanchez

Daños con-laterales 8C+ FA by Nacho Sanchez

Nacho Sanchez reports on Insta, with a 4 min video, that he has done the FA of Daños con-laterales 8C+ in Fortuna, after 30+ sessions. The Spaniard has previously done two 8C/+ and eight 8C's.

Could you say something about the process of how you took it down?
I started trying it some years ago. When I solved the isolated moves, I thought I wasn't too far from sending it, but I needed years of training to link the first three moves and another year to send it. Sometimes I had to stop trying it because of some injuries, but I finally overcame them and felt strong enough to send it. It has been hard mentally, but I've enjoyed the process very much.

Did you do any replica or specific training?
I did a lot of body tension and compression exercises and climbed many problems on the board with side pulls too.