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Estado Critico 9a by Darius Rapa (16)

Estado Critico 9a by Darius Rapa (16)

Darius Rapa, who last year did his first 9a and won one Euro Youth Cup, has done Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. "Sooo damn happy to clip the chain on this 35 meters masterpiece and to tick my second 9a. It was such a big fight all the way to the top😮‍💨 The route was done in 6 tries, 3 days"

Can you tell us more about your trip and the ascent?
I went to Siurana for 9 days and my plan was just to check the area and eventually find a project. On my first go on Estado Critico I couldn’t make it past the first crux (the dynamic move to the small crimp). On my second go, I passed the crux but still didn’t make it to the top but made some links (I struggled a lot on the upper part). I made it to the top on my third go and found my final beta so that meant it was just a matter of time until I would clip the chains (which I did surprisingly fast and unexpectedly on my 6th try). I am so happy with this one and I will try to push myself to the limits in the future.

What else have you been doing in the autumn and what is the winter plan?
This autumn I was mostly training in the gym after the Youth World Championships in Dallas and I’ve also done the FA of L'integral du decadance (8B) in Romania. Now I will train hard with my coach, Robert Cohn, for the upcoming competitional season.

Cup of Immortality extension 8C (+) by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has had a great day in Moravský kras where he first flashed Vnitřní Svět Vítězů (8B), giving it a personal 8A+ grade. Later he did the FA of Pohár Nesmrtelnosti (prodloužení) 8C (+) (Cup of Immortality extension). "8C/8C+, maybe 8C+, last moves are very specific and hard to grade."

The extension is 8A or 8A+ which is added to the original 8B+. Full description, comments, and a video of the very steep problem on his Insta. In total, the 29-year-old has now logged 17 8C's and 4 8C+ to his scorecard, which overall includes 2 248 ascents.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Rekabi announced as part of IFSC coaching program

IFSC reports that Elnaz Rekabi, together with three other women are part of a programme aiming to increase the presence of female coaches at the Olympic Games. "All four participants attended the first online session on November 30th that kickstarted the 21-month leadership programme alongside spo…

Garnbret wants strict BMI rules in 2023

In a 40 min interview at the IFSC Climbing Summit, Janja Garnbret was very straightforward about BMI testing. She referred to a survey in Innsbruck where it later was stated that: 16 % of female athletes have no menstruation and 22 % reported that they currently struggle with an eating disorder. …

Schubert and Ondra on Project Big

What does Project Big mean to you? I’d say, Flatanger is the Yosemite of sports climbing. It’s the rock quality, the potential, the number of difficult routes, it’s simply extraordinary. It’s a beautiful place looking over the fjords to the sea, the cave is massive, it’s steep, offers so many hard r…

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Dreamtime 8B+/C by Pietro Vidi (19)

Dreamtime 8B+/C by Pietro Vidi (19)

Pietro Vidi, who was #7 in a Euro Cup this summer, has done Dreamtime 8B+/C in Cresciano. During the last month, he has previously done three 8B's and three 8B+.

How have you been able to raise the bar so much the last month?
I feel really good on rocks lately. For sure all the training for the comps has made me stronger than last year. For me it has been really important to gain finger strength, tension and re-learn some tricks by climbing a lot on rocks. My first goal of the season was Squalo Bianco (8B+) which went down in early October (it still feels like my hardest bloc😅). Then after two more 8B+ ascents, I wanted to test myself on Dreamtime.

It suits me really well as it is pretty technical on heel hooks. The stand went down in a bunch of tries (I briefly tried it last year with no chances), so I decided to check the moves on the sit and managed to fall on the stand sensationally fast. Then I needed three more sessions to link all the moves to the top!

La Rambla 9a+ by Chaehyun Seo (19)

La Rambla 9a+ by Chaehyun Seo (19)

Chaehyeon Seo has done the second female ascent, after Margo Hayes, of La Rambla (9a+) in Siurana. (c) Bernardo Gimenez

How many sessions did it take and what was hardest for you?
I did it in 5 days and the hardest was the last cruxy part.

How long will you stay and what is next?
I’ll stay here by 11/28 and I want to try Realization (9a+) (Biographie) in Céüse!

Seo made her first 8a headline at age 11, when she onsighted her first 8a. Three years later she did Bad Girls Club 8c+/9a. 15-years-old, she won the overall World Cup after having won four straight WCs. In 2021, she won the World championship and this year she was second in the World Cup.

Furi de Jabali 9a+ by Minyoung Lee

Furi de Jabali 9a+ by Minyoung Lee

Chaehyeon Seo shares the good news that also her teammates from South Korea have sent hard in Siruana: Minyoung Lee, who was #12 in the Boulder World Championship in 2021, has done Furia de Jabali 9a+. Sol Sa, #2 in the Combined World Championship in 2018, did La pequena Mowgli (8c) and Jihyun Lim (16) did Kale borroka (8b+).

Wild Publico 9a by Vojtěch Trojan

Wild Publico 9a by Vojtěch Trojan

Vojta Trojan, who previously has done six 9a's, has sent Wild Publico (9a) in Margalef. "Sick route! Love the style.. definitely softer for me, but it depends on the style you prefer, could be hard for some people I guess. Never fell in the boulder, but managed to drop the upper section after the rest 2 times tho :Dd" (c) Maja Maatz

Can you tell us more about your trip and the send?
I came back to Margalef just for a week to check out some projects before the usual month winter trip. Surprisingly I could send the Wild Publico pretty fast, so one project down! :) I tried a bit for 2 days in the sun (horrible conditions) then the clouds came and I managed to fall two times after the upper rest. On the fifth day, I sent it straight away. The route consists of a bouldery start crux (around 8A/A+ boulder) leading into 8c (Pal Publico). The start fits me well so it was just a matter of time to finish the upper part! Happy to send it and looking forward to the next round in December! Shout out to Tom Bolger for bolting the start - one of the best sequences I climbed on the rocks!

Zeleputsa 9a+ by Gorka Karapeto (41)

Zeleputsa 9a+ by Gorka Karapeto (41)

Gorka Karapeto reports on Insta that he has done Zelenputza (9a+) in Ilarduia. It was the Pou brothers who bolted it and then Jonathan Flor did the FA in 2021.

In practice, it is a link-up of Celedon txiki (8c+) and Harroputza (9a). Gorka did his first 9a in 2008 and his tenth and last, Harroputza, in 2019. (c) Borja Iban

Zvěřinec 9b+ by Adam Ondra

Zvěřinec 9b+ by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has done the FA of Zvěřinec (9b+) (Menagerie) in Holstejn. He says that he did it on his first go on Sunday after having warmed up at home, as it was zero degrees and overcast. In total, Adam has now done four 9b+ and one 9c FAs. (c) Petr Chodura

Second hardest route of my life, quite a bit harder than other 9b+ I have done or tried. Harder start into Perlorodka (my FA from 2011 that I graded 9a+ but it is probably more 9b - I just did not want to skip a grade in my homecrag). It is a linkup, but toally worth it in my opinion. There is a 9a called Kostej Nesmrtelny finishing in the last rest before the 8B+ crux of Perlorodka. Kostej + Perlorodka would be amazing direct line, but there is a very good rest halfway up of Kostej, so that is why I make a detour to the right through crux of Kudlanka (oldschool 8b+). That makes it harder and more resistant. 9a+ plus rest plus 8B+ boulder.”