Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done the second ascent of James Pearson’s masterpiece Bon Voyage (9a) trad in Annot, after trying it for three days. (c) Petr Chodura

”It is hands down one of the best routes I have ever climbed, and it is a true miracle that there are just enough holds to make it climbable and enough gear to make runout, but safe.”

Pearson did not suggest a grade but Ondra says he thinks it could be a solid 9a if bolted and placing gear makes it a little bit more difficult. In other words, Bon Voyage might be the hardest trad climb in the world. Noteworthy is also that Ondra has made the hardest grade in all disciplines and styles except for his 8C+ boulder; 9c, 9a+ flash, 9a onsight, 8B+ flash, 9a MP and 9a trad.

Martina Demmel has ticked Combifetis (8c) in Margalef. In total, the 22-year-old has now done 53 routes 8c to 9a.

Can you tell us more about the trip and doing Combifetis?
I didn't know what to expect before going into this trip because it feels like I have a completely different relation to climbing now compared to the last longer rock climbing trip [I did]. Starting it off right away with a route which is definitely out of my comfort zone was also a completely new approach & experience not only because I still had a big lack of endurance for sth longer than gym routes and adapting to this pockety style is still a painful process.

I'm here with my best friend Vera who surprised herself with her hardest onsight yet which is why we couldn't stop smiling! I'm often more happy for my friends successes than my own and this helped me focusing on the joy for giving a try myself in Combifetis😁💃! The nervousness was soon forgotten as there's no time to think or chalk during the whole loop around Fustigator. The deep pump even made me skip 2 draws before clipping the chains 4th try.

What about competitions 2024?
My main focus is on preparing for the Lead Worldcups and I'm trying my best to get selected to compete at all of them which is harder this year because we've only got 3 starting places. So there are only a few short windows for rock climbing during the year🙃🌞.

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he was planning to trad climb in Annot but due to rain he went to Gorges du Loup and managed to send Inga 8c+/9a. The next day it was time for Buoux where he onsighted Le brillant saoul (8c) and Finement con (8b+). (c) Petr Chodura

The 30-year-old is approaching 100 onsights of routes graded 8c to 9a. No other climber has onsighted more than a dozen grade 8c and harder. Ondra has also frequently downgraded his onsights. He would have well over 200 routes 8b+ and harder registered as onsights were it not for his downgrading.

Ethan Salvo has sent The Singularity (8B+) in Squamish after projecting for some 60 sessions over four years. It was put up by Tim Clifford in 2007 as an 8B+ and the upgrade comes from the later repeaters who started one move lower. (c) Pat Valade

”To me, the singularity was my most fulfilling journey as a boulderer, and also the longest. Although the boulder looks quite simple, I had to go really deep to understand what it would take to climb the problem. In my years of effort, the problem pushed me to improve in every way.

By time I was able to execute the crux move, I had grown so much as a granite boulderer. My understanding of body position, hand placement, conditions, weather pattern, skin tactics, and more had greatly improved. It was clear that all the days I put in were finally paying off, and that the end was near.

My 2023 season ended by falling after the crux move 4 times total. I honestly never thought it would be possible to fall after the crux, but the slightest error in my set up for the crux made the 4th move extremely hard to execute in comparison to trying that move in isolation. I went to Bishop after that, climbed some hard classics and learned a lot about myself while doing so.

When I got back to Squamish in Feb, it was pouring rain and I had to wait for the room to dry out again. After patiently waiting what felt like months to have more tries, the problem finally dried out, but i felt like I had to relearn things again. After a poor session, I went home and watched the video of Nalles send on repeat for 45min. Everytime the video played back, I’d focus on the movements of a different body part. I woke up the next morning pretty sore from the day before, but decided I should try anyway. Everything I learned the night before watching nalles vid on loop definitely had an impact on my tries, in a way I felt like I had learned everything there was to understand about the problem. All that was left to do was close the chapter. I pulled on for my last try of the session, which ended up being my last try ever.”

Pepa Šindel has completed Victimes del futur (9a) in Margalef.

Can you tell us more about your trip and Victimes del Futur?
Six years ago, my parents decided to change their jobs, and this allowed us to travel to Spain for six months to climb. I was 10 years old at the time and basically just started climbing. I remember Siurana - my first 7a+ PP, then 7c in Santa Linya and especially Margalef. I'd say that this trip made climbing my passion.

Spring school break 2024! Clear choice - Margalef, six climbing days. I set a clear goal for myself. Something in the royal sector of El Racó de La Finestra in difficulty 8c+ to 9a. The first choice fell on the legendary route Víctimes del Futur. A route with a long history, with changes in difficulty, well described on Vertical-life.

Right after the first try, I understood that it would be a very difficult task. 20 meters of endurance climbing 8b+ to a good rest was no problem for me. Then it starts to tighten and I couldn't do the final crux even after resting on the rope. I knew that the boulder has two ways of solving, directly over the small crimp and slightly to the left through the one mono and the two finger pocket. The next day I managed to climb the boulder in a direct way, with the crimp.

For the next two climbing days, I made attempts and each time I fell in the boulder. Depressive. I could fall over and over here. So I decided to change the beta and try to use the mono and the two fingers. In this way, I felt that I was simply small, I lacked two or three centimeters to reach a good pocket. But dad kept yelling at me from below: change your legs, adjust your position.

And therein lay the trick. Right leg high, turn the left leg correctly. And suddenly I did the boulder separately, several times in a row. A day of rest followed. And it rained...rain after seven months of drought. And it rained a lot, most of the roads were wet, the hills were flooded.

However, it proved just how good a choice Víctimes del Futur was. The only route with a somewhat dry climb in the sector. I dried the wet holes in the technical climb near the top and went for a sharp attempt... I run the lower part, tackle the boulder and did it! Just a good rest and finish for some 7b, 7b+. Final runout was a heart attack, especially for my mom. Because my foot slipped on a wet hold and I was left hanging for a while on finger pockets. But, I didn't let it go and fought to the max.