Noah Wheeler ticks two 8C+’

Noah Wheeler, who the last month sent his third 9A boulder, has in just three days up at Upper Chaos sent two 8C+ boulders. In the VL ranking game, the 23-year-old is the runner-up after Zach Galla but just ahead of Adam Ondra.

Brace for the Cure (8C+): ”2 sessions this year - tried a sesh or two last year with no chance on the full line. Jade move is atleast the 2nd hardest move on this line. Stuck it maybe 15 times in a row in order to send. Contender for one of the most purely finger-strength dependent climbs in the world!”

Creature From the Black Lagoon (8C+): ”Maybe an hour total on the boulder with 3 start rips over 2 days (was mostly trying Brace). Fell on the topout twice which made the double-kneebar assisted sent even sweeter! A good benchmark for the very low end of the grade. Climbs amazingly.” (c) Francois Lebeau

Can we have a longer write up of the ascents?
Tried Brace once last year in and was able to do all the moves, but with much pain in my fingers. Figured it would go as a 3+ sessions project this year. Came back and climbed into the V9/10 end move on my first session, falling on what felt like a like punt. That same session, I was hanging out with Austin Hoyt under the Creature cave and impromptu decided to pull on the crux sequence (generally considered 3/4 moves of V15 [8C]). To my surprise, I linked through it and into the stand.

The next session, I sent Brace after maybe 2 hours - longer than I wanted. I pulled on to Creature from the start and climbed all the way into the topout of the V11 [8A] stand pumping out to such a degree it did not feel like a punt at all. At that point it was too late and I was too tired to try again.

The next day I fell getting my foot up on the headwall in my first go, then sent my second. The crux sequence was so weirdly in my style that I never fell on it, so the climb did not feel too difficult. It was definitely an endurance end crux for me.