NEWS

Fitzroy Traverse for Honnold and Caldwell

Supertopo has the amazing story of Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell having done, Fitzroy traverse up to 3 405 m which has five km of ridge line and 4 000 m of vertical gain. The highest It took them four days. (c) Rolando Garibotti "It should be noted that their success was in spite of very bad conditions, with much ice and snow in the cracks and on the ridges courtesy of one of the wettest summer seasons in many years. Caldwell and Honnold wore rockshoes to climb Pilar Goretta and the north face of Aguja Poincenot but climbed everything else wearing approach shoes (!!).

The Story.. 8C by Gabri Moroni

Gabri Moroni has done the seventh ascent of Dave Graham's classic "The Story of 2 Worlds", 8C in Cresciano. FA was made in 2005 and the name was referred as a statement towards previous grade inflation. Wow! Another crazy moment in my climbing life! Did it with the original Dave's start. Tried on and off for like 5 days in the last two months after I climbed The Dagger(3days to do it). But weather and other obligations didn't allow me to try it for the last 3weeks... Today was supposed to be another working-day on the problem but on my last try from the start I eventually got into The Dagger with enough power left and managed to fight till the top of the boulder!" Gabri is a succesfull competition climber, he won tha Youth World Championship in 2002 and he was #3 at the Bouldering World Championship in 2004, being only 16 years old. He stopped his competition career in 2011. Dai Koyamada did the first repeat in 2010 but the ascent was questioned since he did a slighty easier start than the original. Dai was back on the problem lately doing a spectacular lay downstart for which he claimed 8C+.

The Youth World Championship in New Caledonia was originally planned to August 15-18. Two weeks ago, IFSC announced date changes to September 20-24 meaning that most juniors would have to take 1.5 weeks leave from school. In a debate article, I questioned this and said that they should keep the original dates, as there otherwise is a risk that many youngsters will skip the championship. Alternatively, I suggested to change the starting date of the event to a Tuesday, instead of the current Saturday, as this would mean only five days leave from school. Several youth competitors and coaches have made complaints and the latest news from IFSC is that the original dates in August and "(date may change after PA 14 vote.)... The event will be considered for September upon decision of the Plenary Assembly. The Youth Coaches have now received an email with another new dates to 19-23 September and that IFSC want to know how many each country plan to send based on arriving five days prior to the event.

La Rambla 9a+ by Daniel Jung

Daniel Jung, who previously has done eight 9a's, has done his first 9a+, La Rambla in Siurana. (c) Bernando Gimenez From his blog we can understand that it was a long exciting project including swollen fingers, skin problems and wet holds etc. His next project is to finish a new boulder gym in Siegen with his brother Markus. La Rambla is one of the most famous hard core routes in the world and the 8c+ FA was done by Alex Huber in 1994. In 2003, Ramonet added the 9a+ extension making the route 40+ meters. It is with 10 ascents, the most repeated 9a+ in the world.

Ramonet makes second onsight of Fish eye 8c

Ramon Julian has made the second onsight, after Klemen Becan, of Fish Eye 8c in Oliana. With 44 ascents, in the 8a data base, it is the most repeated 8c in the world, the last five years. Ramonet, the best competition climber the last ten years, have previously onsighted four 8c's and one 8c+. The route is 45 m long with a last red point crux at the very top. © M. Alba

Piotr Schaab has done Directa Cornualles 8c+ in Siurana. " Unique moves! A new crux appeared after one hold broke out just after the good rest in the middle. It seemed more like an 8c+ to us (6 Polish strong guys !!) as it was considered to be a hard 8c before .

16 February 2014

Hueco Rock Rodeo #21

1. Daniel Woods 8 115 - Jule Wurm 6 100 2. James Webb 7 589 - Mina Leslie-Wujastyk 5 715 3. Sean McColl 7 420 - Nina Williams 4 430 4. Paul Robinson 7 210 - Jill Waters 3 460 5. Jan Hojer 7 180 - Rachel Meyers 2 560 Complete results

Schubert injuries finger while flashing 8B

Jakob Schubert reports on FB that he injured his finger while flashing Nagual 8B in Hueco Tanks. "Seems like this climbing trip is over for me.. don't have a diagnose yet but doesn't feel good." The picture is from his first day, when he did three 8A+ and flashed one 8A and three 7C+. Last year, Jakob was #2 in both the Lead and Boulder World Cup. In 2014, he will do some Boulder WC's and all Lead WC's.

Jule Wurm wins Hueco Rock Rodeo

Jule Wurm had an amazing day winning the Hueco Rock Rodeo by doing seven 7C and harder, out of which, four flashes including The Hand 7C+. The German, who won one WC last year, did also an impressive second go ascent of The Flame 8A. WOW It seems you are in the best shape of your life? Please tell us something from the great comp and are you doing all the Boulder WC's in 2014? Yeah, climbing feels pretty good at the moment! I trained a lot during the past months and it's nice to see that it pays off on rocks now! The Rodeo was so much fun. It was nice to hang out with the other girls and trying hard boulders together! I'm going to do all the Bouldering Worldcups this year! I took one semester off from University so I'll have plenty of time till october.

A File with a Style
15 February 2014

A File with a Style

Clemens Arnt has through, A File with a Style, produced some nice wooden files that will reduce flappers and splits. Your skin is something that has to be taking care of well and some kind of file is mandatory for every hard core climber. A well cared skin will actually make you climb more and harder and this is actually the best file I have tested. It is a very nice feeling to have a wooden file in your hand instead of a plastic one, as you are going into the somewhat obsessed meditation phase looking and taking care of your fingers.