18 February 2014

The Story.. 8C by Gabri Moroni

Gabri Moroni has done the seventh ascent of Dave Graham's classic "The Story of 2 Worlds", 8C in Cresciano. FA was made in 2005 and the name was referred as a statement towards previous grade inflation. Wow! Another crazy moment in my climbing life! Did it with the original Dave's start. Tried on and off for like 5 days in the last two months after I climbed The Dagger(3days to do it). But weather and other obligations didn't allow me to try it for the last 3weeks... Today was supposed to be another working-day on the problem but on my last try from the start I eventually got into The Dagger with enough power left and managed to fight till the top of the boulder!" Gabri is a succesfull competition climber, he won tha Youth World Championship in 2002 and he was #3 at the Bouldering World Championship in 2004, being only 16 years old. He stopped his competition career in 2011. Dai Koyamada did the first repeat in 2010 but the ascent was questioned since he did a slighty easier start than the original. Dai was back on the problem lately doing a spectacular lay downstart for which he claimed 8C+.
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