Frankenjura is the epicentrum in the world with 100 routes 8c and harder. However, when it comes to recorded ascents during the last year, four spanish crags, within two hours from Lleida, are in top of the list. 86 Rodellar 82 Siurana 79 Margalef 73 Oliana 53 Frankenjura

Barbara Zangerl reports on facebook has done the three classic 8c's; Fish Eye, T1 Full equip and Mind Control that might be 8c+. (c) Jacopo Larcher (Who onsighted two 8b+; China Crisis and Gorilas en la Niebla). "I think T1 Full Equip is easier....8b+ (for sure not harder). I really enjoy the time here in Oliana. It's my first visit. I will go back home to Austria on Tuesday and my next plan is trying Prinzip Hoffnung (8b+ trad) again. Its just next to my flat." Some years ago, Barbara was one of the best female boulderers in the world but after a back injury she has been focusing on sport and multi pitches also being one of the best in the world. Last year, she finished the alpine trilogy by doing the first female ascent of the MP Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+.

The most frequent comments and complaints we receive, and also the most well known boulder controversy ever, (The Story of 2 Worlds, see picture) relate to sit starts ethics. What seems a simple and logical definition, starting sitting on one pad, are sometimes twisted and pushed, creating different prerequisites and even grades. The sit start ethical problems relate mainly to boulders where the reach and different starting positions have an impact on the grade. Good style and ethics mean that you should start sitting using the same holds as the FA. Sometimes, a shorter boulderer needs to stack pads in order to reach the only starting position. Bad style and ethics relate to when taller guys stack up more pads compared to shorter guys, especially if it also comes with a personal down grade, making the honest sitting guys, soft graders.

Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson came to the Philippines with the idea of making a Sea Kayak/Deep Water Solo Expedition. They had dreams of living simply, paddling along the coast and between the islands, and climbing where they wanted. As the first half of their project comes to an end, they can confirm that this “dream” is possible but might not be the most practical way to do things here… About the rock: spectacular, and although a lot of it is unbelievably sharp there is also a lot of compact overhanging white and grey walls, often covered in pockets and stalactites. Read more on their website (c) Francisco Taranto Jr.

Here are the results for which 1+ month injuries are most common in comparison with an identical poll in 2009. 39 % Fingers (42 % in 2009) 19 % Shoulder (17) 16 % Elbow (14) 10 % Knees (9) 06 % Foot/Toes (7) 05 % Arm muscle (6) 04 % Other - ankle most mentioned (4)

The webmaster has improved the map and here you can add lodging (Camping, Guest Houses and Youth Hostels etc) which will be shown on our map with some 3 000 crags.

Nicolas Durand informs that the ECO refugio in Abella de La Conca, near Terradets and Oliana, are "after 3 and a half years of planning, financing, purchasing and renovating we are finally opening our doors to guests on March 1st 2014." You have 100 routes within 15 min walk and you can walk to 200 and the aim is to open 100 more in 2014. 50 % are below 7a and here is the Tick List and a Left-to-Right topo will be sorted soon. They have pick up service from Barcelona airport, 2.5 h, which cost a maximum of Euro 200 for 4 person. They can also drive you to other nearby crags at a low rate. "It's important to remember that we are a non for profit organisation which aims to develop sustainable outdoor activities and ecological preservation in Abella de La Conca so all money is reinvested in new routes, local ecological project.

Jerome De Boeck has had a nice week around Lleida where he has onsighted three 8b's and three 8a+' beside flashing Super Vixens 8b+ in Margalef.

During the last year, the number of 8B+ and 8C boulders that have been recorded in the 8a data base are 131 and 30. In comparison, the two highest recorded routes grades 9b and 9b+ have 3 and 1 ascent. Until some ten years ago, we had grade inflation and several super soft 8C and 8C+' were sat up and repeated quickly. They have all been down graded 1 - 2 grades and the major reason for this was the Dave Graham's The Story of 2 (grading) Worlds 8C from 2005. Lately, it seems the grade pendulum have struck to hard creating an 8C+ grade deflation actually hindering further community progress. The only three 8C+ boulder suggestions, during the last three years, have come from Adam Ondra, including his personal upgrade on Gioia. Having talked to potential 8C+ boulderers like; Woods, Graham, Robinson and Traversi, they all agree that it is time to do some 8C+ upgradings. Let us hope Hukkataival can get the ball rolling by giving Gioia 8C+. "Gioia is definitely one of the most difficult boulders in the world. It’s certainly harder than most 8C’s out there. The real question is, is it a full grade harder? If we decide to consider it 8C+, then there are also a couple other contenders for 8C+ in my opinion.

By searching the highest star rating of the popular routes up to 6a in the world, we can see that all the Top-4 are trad routes found in the Bohuslän, Sweden. The #1 in the world is Villskudd followed by Prismaster, Mallorol and Bergkirstis Polska which are located in four different crags, creating the Bohuslän classics. The granite in the area is world class and it has actually been shipped all over the world. By checking the Tick List of Bohuslän, we can also see that there are several harder trad routes that score high on the quality star rating. Beside trad routes, there are some high class sport crags including two new family crags and Granitgrottan with routes up to 8c+ (FA Ondra), as well as bouldering in the area. Bohuslän is located one hour north of Göteborg and two hours south of Norway. (c) Hampus Ivert