LATEST NEWS

Great 8c pre-clipping ethics by Oriane Bertone (15)

EDITORIAL

Monday, 22 June

Great 8c pre-clipping ethics by Oriane Bertone (15)

Oriane Bertone has done Panonoramix 8c in St Léger and added some interesting comments. "The first section is quite dangerous, and I did it with the rope in the…


À contre courant 9a FA by Loic Zehani (18)

Monday, 22 June

À contre courant 9a FA by Loic Zehani (18)

Loic Zehani, who previously has done 18 routes 9a to 9b, has done the FA of À contre courant 9a in Orgon. "It is an old 8b bolted by my father over 15 years a…



Ambition 8C FA by James Squire

Sunday, 21 June

Ambition 8C FA by James Squire

James Squire has done his second 8C FA at the Biblins Cave, Ambition, Video. The pic is from his first 8C FA and was taken by Mark Davies. Would it be possible…



Dieu Merci 8c+ or 9a FA by Matteo Soule (13)

Saturday, 20 June

Dieu Merci 8c+ or 9a FA by Matteo Soule (13)

Matteo Soule has done the FA of Dieu Merci 8c+ or 9a in Gorges du Tarn, which was a 15 year project tried by many top climbers. The 13-year-old, who previously …


Arrested Development 9a by Owen Whaley (16)

Friday, 19 June

Arrested Development 9a by Owen Whaley (16)

Owen Whaley, who had 8b+ as personal best until three months ago, has done his fist 9a, Arrested Development in Mt Charleston. (c) Chris Weidner Congrats! What …


Jakob Schubert reports on Insta that he during a two day trip to Magic Wood managed to do three 8B+' including a flash of The Never Ending Story. This means the Austrian has flashed two 8B+. Adam Ondra has flashed (3), James Webb (2) and Daniel Woods, Tomoa Narasaki, and Ned Feehally have flashed one each.

When the borders finally opened, I took the first chance to drive to Switzerland despite the really bad weather forecast. I was really motivated and convinced, we’d find some dry spots. 48h later we had successfully climbed everything that was difficult and dry. The place really plays towards my strengths and it feels like the change between indoor training and the rocks really pushes my climbing abilities.”

When it comes to competitions, the 29-year-old could be considered the best male Lead competitor in history. Two times he has won the Lead World Championship and in total 21 World Cups wins including three in Bouldering. In 2011, he won the seven straight World Cups. Outdoors, he has done 30 routes 9a to 9b+ and in Bouldering three 8C's. In other words, overall he should be considered #2 after Adam Ondra. Here is a video that sums up what Jakob did during the lockdown and until the end of May.




Thursday, 18 June

The Never Ending Story 8B+ flash by Jakob Schubert

Jakob Schubert reports on Insta that he during a two day trip to Magic Wood managed to do three 8B+' including a flash of The Never Ending Story. This means the Austrian has flashed two 8B+. Adam Ondra has flashed (3), James Webb (2) and Daniel Woods, Tomoa Narasaki, and Ned Feehally have flashed on…


Mona Lisa integral 9a+ by Jose Luis Palao

Wednesday, 17 June

Mona Lisa integral 9a+ by Jose Luis Palao

Jose Luis Palao has made the FA of the 60 meter super steep Mona Lisa integral 9a+ in Rodellar. Two weeks ago, he did it to the first L1 9a anchor and then he…


EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 17 June

Personal Best and Limitations

Adam Ondra has possibly 9c as his personal maximal limit. At the same many of us have 8a as our absolute limit even if we would live as a professional climber for ten years. Having spotted, belayed and witnessed many of the best I do think that if I would have had a similar "a muerte" obsession I wo…