NEWS

Ondra and Janicot win the #29 Arco Rock Master
Planet Mountain reports that Adam Ondra and Hรฉlรจne Janicot won the Duel competition at the 29th Arco Rock Master. The runner-ups were Sean McColl and Mathilde Becerra. 8 + 8 of the best Lead climbers in the world were invited to see who is the fatest in a Duel starting with a speed qualification. Later on, they competed in quarter final, semi and finals and it was also a great ending of the Youth World Championship. (c) Giulio Malfer Every year in Arco, the Duel is just a success and possibly it could be something that also IFSC could introduce. Surely, it is much funnier to see the best guys in the world speed climbing an 8a for a minute instead of watching some speed climbers climbing for around ten seconds on a 6b? Or maybe, both formats could be used.

Second 8b by Nika Potapowa (12)
Nika Potapowa was too young to compete in the Arco Youth World Championship but she went there anyway, and like last year, she did an 8b, Fuego. The tallented 12-year-old did also onsight her first 7c+, Herrtuna in Nassereith.

James Noble is having his best bouldering days ever in Rocklands and we could all learn from his classical comments. Golden Shadow 8B+: "Total mental war of attrition! Marc le menestral saw me on it and described my climbing as 'dancing on rock'. A little bit pleased." Armed Response 8B: "On the go I did it I pushed that hard I went deaf in one ear for the next few minutes. Poo also nearly came out."

6 September 2015

Youth World Champions

96: Anak Verhoeven BEL - Bernhard Rรถck AUT 98: Janja Garnbret SLO - Sascha Lehmann SUI 00: Ashima Shiraishi USA - Sam Avezou FRA Complete results Both Ashima Shiraishi and Janja Garnbret did top out all four routes. Six countries did get one gold in Lead and USA with two silver was overall #1 ahead of Belgium and Slovenia with one silver. The big negative disappointment once again was Germany who did not get any youngsters in the final in both Lead and Boulder. Overall the Youth World Championship was a great success for IFSC and the organizer including the route setting team. It looks like a great future for competition climbing with the record of participants and this event will increase our possibilities to reach the Olympics.

First 9a by Erik Grandelius after reading a book
Erik Grandelius seems to be in the best shape of his life, having onsighed two 8b's and done his first 9a, Cabane au Canada in Rawyl. "We spent two weeks in Switzerland. The first day I realized that I was in good shape as I surprised myself by falling at the chains on the onsight of Paradis Articifiel 8c. We stayed another two days in Rawyl but then it became to warm (even though it is at 2000 meters) so we went to Gastlosen for a week. When we came back I sent the Cabane au Canada the first day on the second try. Altogether I made six tries over three days. I feel that I have reached a deeper focus in my climbing, especially the last four days of the trip I dwelved into an almost meditative state as soon as a tied in, even on warm-ups. During the trip a was reading "Das Glasperlenspiel" by Herman Hesse and it made a great impression on my climbing. The great spiritual and intellectual discipline and the strong organization in the fictional Kastilien became an inspiration for me. I also feel that climbing hard in the alps also requires a great deal of organization and discipline as you have to time the weather, the resting, the nutrition and mental state perfectly.

Although Russia dominated the Speed event in the Youth World Championships in Arco, also USA, Iran, France and Poland got at least one silver. John Brosler from USA had the best time overall: 6.33. 96: Georgy Artamanov RUS - Patrycja CHUDZIAK POL 98: Kostiantyn PAVLENKO RUS - Elma FLEURET FRA 00: Petr ZEMLIAKOV RUS - Elisabetta DALLABRIDA ITA

Matteo Menardi has done La Linea dei Sogni 8c+ in Erto, which was his third of the grade during the last month. The 16-year-old says that one of the reasons why he did not participate in Arco was that he did not take part in the national meeting, which was rather far from where he lives.

8c onsight by Domen ยŠkofic and a 9a
Domen ยŠkofic reports on Facebook that he managed to make the first ever onsight of Reini's Vibes 8c in Arco. (c) Luka Fonda "Later that day I returned to Massone and did the connection between Underground and Reini's Vibes called Under Vibes on my second go. It's a first repeat after @steghiso, if I'm not wrong and I agree with the 9a grade! Today I'm going to cheer for the youngsters in the finals of the WYCH

Megos, Ondra and Ellison Arco Rock Legends
Planet Mountain reports from the Arco Rock Legends ceremony, where Alex Megos won the Salewa Rock Award and Adam Ondra won the La Sportiva Competition Award. Ondra won his first Award when he was 15 years old and in total, he has five Awards now. No other climber has won more than once. John Ellison received the title of Dryarn Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil Award for his work with Climbers Against Cancer, which has raised some 500 000 Euros beside having sold and distributed 25 000 T-shirts. (c) Giulio Malfer