NEWS

Matteo Menardi has done La Linea dei Sogni 8c+ in Erto, which was his third of the grade during the last month. The 16-year-old says that one of the reasons why he did not participate in Arco was that he did not take part in the national meeting, which was rather far from where he lives.

8c onsight by Domen ยŠkofic and a 9a
Domen ยŠkofic reports on Facebook that he managed to make the first ever onsight of Reini's Vibes 8c in Arco. (c) Luka Fonda "Later that day I returned to Massone and did the connection between Underground and Reini's Vibes called Under Vibes on my second go. It's a first repeat after @steghiso, if I'm not wrong and I agree with the 9a grade! Today I'm going to cheer for the youngsters in the finals of the WYCH

Megos, Ondra and Ellison Arco Rock Legends
Planet Mountain reports from the Arco Rock Legends ceremony, where Alex Megos won the Salewa Rock Award and Adam Ondra won the La Sportiva Competition Award. Ondra won his first Award when he was 15 years old and in total, he has five Awards now. No other climber has won more than once. John Ellison received the title of Dryarn Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil Award for his work with Climbers Against Cancer, which has raised some 500 000 Euros beside having sold and distributed 25 000 T-shirts. (c) Giulio Malfer

8a+ DWS flash by Magnus Midtbรธ
Magnus Midtbรธ, #4 in the Lead World Champion 2011, reports on Facebook with a great picture from a 8a+ DWS flash, "Setting up for the huge dyno on Loskot and Two Smoking Barreels!! So happy to have pulled off what might be my most committing flash ever. Photo: @janvincentkleine

Petr Blaha, who did his first 8c+ when he was 35 years old, is four years later in his best shape ever having done two more routes of this grade, La totalitรฉ and Le cรดtรฉ obscur in Gorges du Loup. The great and inspiring story is that he started climbing more than 20 years ago!

Great spirit and great job by the Lead organizers in Arco
In total, close 500 youngsters participated in the two days Lead flash qualifications and everyone reports that the spirit was high with excellent route setting and few minor incidents. The team coach from Sweden, Reino Horak says, - You should report that the jury president Tim Hatch has done a very good job and he is working non stop fixing some small technical incidents. Several coaches have said that he has been a key player and it is just amazing how smooth everything goes. (c) Eddie Fowke

8c+ by Matteo Menardi (16), instead of going to Arco
Matteo Menardi has done Open Project 8c+ and his comment says it all,"Thanks to Hannes Pfeifhofer for bolting this line and most of the routes in Landro." During the last three weeks, the Italian has also done four 8c's, for two out of which he gave a personal 8b+ grade, and onsighted three routes 8a+ and harder. Including a 9a done this spring, the 16 year old is #3 in the 8a Junior ranking game and you start to wonder if he would not have had great chances in the current Youth World Championship in Arco.

Jernej Kruder #2 in Boulder Worlds goes for 8b+ alpine
Jernej Kruder has together with Gregor Vezonik done the first repeat of Mattias Trottman's Hattori Hanzo in Titlist Nordwand, which, at 8b+, is considered the hardest European North Face. Last year, Jernej was #2 in the Boulder World Championship and won in Arco. This year he has moved his focus also to routes, having done two 8c+'s. Check Kruder's nice report from his MP experience. Day one: wet Day two: one try in each pitch, but last one Day 3: Vezi linked first and second (5b, 6b) I was following, next 2 pitches I linked (7b, 6c), after i did 8b+ on my first go, belayed Vezi for 2 tries, led next 8a+ and almost fell, led 7a on sight without energy left and almost died of dehydration and cramps, but I did it amd I was standing on the top :D

Sasha DiGulian does FFA of Magic Mushroom at the Eiger North Face
Sasha Digulianreports on Facebook that she has, together with Carlo Traversi, done the Magic Mushroom of Eiger North Face that finishes up at 3 219 meters after 21 pitches up to 7c+. (c) Carlo Denali "I've never tried harder on anything in my life. I am wrecked and can't believe it's real. 4 days 3 nights and the dream is complete! We did it!" DiGiulian and Traversi had spent three weeks projecting Paciencia (23 pitches, 8a) also on the Eiger North Face. However, continuous poor weather made them switch route and after just a quick rappel check-up of the Magic Mushroom on the 27th, they succeeded at their first attempt. Sasha had previously told 8a that she had to go back to school in the end of August so it was just one of these "final day, final go". For several years, Sasha has been one of the best female climbers in all disciplines, including competition climbing, where she was #2 respectively #8 in the Boulder and Lead World Championships in Arco 2009, being 18 years old.