NEWS

Silvretta with Gu and Woods by Hadwiger

Guntram Jörg reports, "Today is the release day of Dominik Hadwiger´s Silvretta Movie "Landjaeger". It shows Guntram Jörg and Daniel Woods climbing the most classic hard boulders in the Silvretta Mountains. It was filmed in the summer of 2011 when Gu could finally climb his first 8B+ boulder after three years of being to weak to link the moves of Anam Cara. The main goal of the movie is connecting the powerful climbing and the beauty of that amazing climbing area. Feel the freedom of bouldering and get ready for a hot & sunny summer."

James Webb has flashed his sixth 8B the last year, Life, the universe and everything in Zillertal. The runner-up in this flash league has done less than half of what James has done. "Cheers to Jorg (Verhoeven) for cleaning the top. Was able to top it out! One of the best movement boulders I have done. VERY luck to flash this one!

8a by Angie Scarth-Johnson (9)

Angie Scarth-Johnson has done three 7c+ an El guardiá 8a in Margalef. "Had a few big moves for me, had to use terrible intermediate, cool climbing with the crux at the top." The last year, the nine year old Aussie did her first 8b, Swingline in Red River Gorge, see the picture. To make the story even more amazing, Angie's parents don't climb. Here is an old interview by Simon Carter. " I don’t have a trainer. I write my own programs. I usually write a new program every week, sometimes I keep them for two or three weeks depends on what I am working at the time. I keep them in a folder in case I need it for next time to look at them again and sometimes I mix them up and if I’m not really working on anything that’s what I do I may go back to the first week to try something different.

Alfons Dornauer has had a good week in Magic Wood flashing three 8A+'s and done four 8B's, commenting "soft" for all. In he combined ranking game, the 20 year old is #3.

9a by Reffo Silvio in Arco

Silvio Reffo has done Biologico 9a in Arco which was bolted by Loris Manzana and which is an extension to a bouldery 8c. The FA was done by Adam Ondra and it has been repeated by Gabri Moroni. (c) Matteo Pavana "Biologica is the true line. I tried the route for the first time last year one day. This year in four days i did it. " Reffo has previously done three 9a's and last month he made the FA of The ring of life 9a+.

Lucifer 8c+ by Kai Ligthner (14)

Rock & Ice reports that Kai Ligthner has done Lucifer 8c+ in Red River Gorge. The amazing thing is that Kai says that he only trains wednesday night after driving 120 km one way after school and that he very seldom climbs outdoors. The 14 year old has anyhow, done several 8b+ and the picture is from last year when he did Southern Smoke 8c (+).

Old-school 8c by Stefano Carnati (15)

Stefano Carnati has made the probably fourth ascent of Spirit Walker 8c in Sasso Remenno which was put up in 1991. Last year Stefano won both the Europe and the World Youth Lead Championships. In the European Bouldering Championship he was #2 and he won the three Euro Bouldering Cups. Stefano has previously this year done his first 8c+ and onsighted two 8a+. The picture is from last year.

For the third year in a row, we will run training camps on Kalymnos and this year it will be between May 29 and June 14th. The concept is morning session with focus on technical and tactical skill in order to onsight and redpoint harder. We take groups of five and the price is Euro 50 per person per day or Euro 150 for couples. Discounts when booking several days. You should be able to top rope 6b. Contact [email protected]

During the last few years, we have seem the best climbers specializing doing either routes or boulders. During the last year it is only Adam Ondra, Daniel Woods and Gabri Moroni who have performed on the highest level in both routes and boulders. Sure there are other guys like Lukasz Dudek, Sean McColl, Jorg Verhoeven, Alfons Dornauer, Stefano Ghisolfi, Alexander Megos, Domen Skofic and Jernej Kruder performing almost at the top level in both disciplines, but some years ago, it was were more common. The 8a combined ranking game.

hugo parmentier who was #2 in the Youth World Champions last year has done his first 8c, Bébéretcho in La Verriere and it was done on his second go. The last few days, the 15 year old also did two 8b's and one 8b+. Not bad for having 8a+ as a personal best before.