NEWS

The best climbing destination had its best climbing year ever
For many years Kalymnos has been the most popular climbing destination in the world especially known for high quality routes, low prices, friendly locals but infamous for queues at the popular sectors. During 2015, the queues have disappeared due to all the new sectors (2 700 routes in the new topo compared to 1 700 before) in combination with less climbers. The fact that Ryan Air has reduced the number of flights and general uncertainties because of the Greek crisis and refugees passing from Turkey are believed to be the reasons for lower number of climbers. Few times, the climbing rescue team (no severe climbing accidents this year) has assisted stranded refugees that had been just dropped on the cliffs. When it comes to the business, the locals have had to deal with some money restrictions but in general, there is more of everything for even lower prices. This means more and often cheaper; supermarkets, studios, restaurants, yoga, training courses, taxi, buses and climbing shops. One guy has also started a resoling service, which also buys and sells used gear. The only drawback is that the scooter rentals are only allowed to those having driving licenses with AM. The best 2016 news is that Ryan Air and more airlines said they would increase the number of flights to Kos and Aegean and might increase their direct 80-seat to Kalymnos to four afternoons every week.

The Young Savages by Claudia Ziegler
I want more of The Young Savages by Claudia Ziegler. She has traveled around the world and spent some time with some of the most famous young climbers getting pictures, also in their day-to-day life. It is very nice to get under skin of the athletes but somehow I think she did scratch just to gentle. Maybe it is because I have met many of them and already know some of the stories; Ernst, Ondra, Sรถderlund, Raboutou, Nonaka, Megos, Shiraishi, Coxsey, Hรถrst, Le Neve and Skofic. The coffee table book is very good and I do recommend it but I want more. The youngsters all represent good climbing personalities but what is the back side of being a professional athlete is the somewhat not mentioned thing beside some strict routines by Adam Ondra and Ashima Shiraishi. Picture says more than words but even so, we do not get much info about their daily life and interest beside climbing and sometimes school. But for a coffee table book, you cannot say you want more.

Adam Ondra and Jain Kim win in China
1. Adam Ondra - Jain Kim 2. Domen Skofic - Anak Verhoeven 3. Sean McColl - Jessica Pilz Complete results

8C by Toshi Takeuchi
18 October 2015

8C by Toshi Takeuchi

Toshi Takeuchi has done his third 8C in 2015, Asagimadara in Mizugaki and he goes to #5 in the ranking game. (c) Hiroshi Asada "Finally. 3rd ascent. I first touched this mega ball 6 years ago and it felt impossible both physically and mentally. Now I felt a really big evolve for myself. Huge respect for Tokio Muroi who put up this one, one of the best bouldering problem on earth. Now I am already psyched for several project that nobody done yet:) Japan has lots of potential.

18 October 2015

Overall before Kranj

Here is the score counting after five out of six events. In theory, five male and two female can win overall. The scoring in the IFSC ranking differs as they have based their result on all six events. 1. Adam Ondra 358 - Mina Markovic 427 2. Gauthier Supper 357 - Jain Kim 406 3. Jakob Schubert 331 - Jessica Pilz 355 4. Domen Skofic 325 - Anak Verhoeven 330 5. Romain Desgranges 307 - Helene Janicot 251

Third 8c in Frankenjura by Lena Herrmann
Lena Herrmann has done Odd Fellows 8c in Frankenjura. "Finally! I spent great days with my friends here. Somehow a mean route." Full story and great pictures on her nice blogspot. Previously in 2015, the 21-year-old has done two FFAs in Frankenjura; Father and Som and Klondike cat. Maybe it is time to start checking the popular 8c+'s around Lleida.

The sixth out of seven Lead World Cups takes place this weekend in Wujiang, China. Only some 25 competitors outside Asia but all the top ranked are going to participate. Unfortunately there will be no live streaming. 1. Gauthier Supper 357 - Mina Markovic 420 2. Jakob Schubert 327 - Jessica Pilz 345 3. Romain Desgranges 307 - Jain Kim 334 4. Adam Ondra 290 - Anak Verhoeven 290 5. Domen Skofic 282 - Helene Janicot 227

Magnus Midtbรถ working on Es Pontas 9b
Magnus Midtbo reports on Facebook that he has been trying Chris Sharma's unrepeated route Es Pontas 9b at Mallorca. The only other world class climber who has said he had tried it for a period of time is Ethan Pringle. "Got a few good dry days on Es Pontas, but not enough to determine whether or not it's possible for me. All I know is that I will be back on the island for more climbing soon.

8a (+) onsight by Chaehyeon Seo (11)
Chaehyun Seo has onsighted one 7c+ and Punto caramelo 8a (+) on Kalymnos. The 11-year-old has previously done four 8a's.

8A by Thomasina Pidgeon (39) again
Thomasina Pidgeon has done her second 8A this year, Supersupernova in Magic Wood. "Never thought I'd try this but when the forest is wet and everyone else is psyched.... Surprisingly fun." In total, the 39-year-old has done 37 boulders 8A and harder, the last 8A+ out of which she did when she was 37. In the last four years, she has actively competed in the Boulder World Cup where she got her best result, 29th place this year in Toronto. In the picture by Axel Perschman from 2013, you can see also her daughter helping out with the crashpad.