Staša Gejo started to make headlines in 2010 when she did her first 8b being 12 years old. Although she has been won European Youth Cups every year since 2012, she has just had her competition breakthrough this year by winning both the European and World Youth Championships in Bouldering as well as being #5 in the last WC in Munich. Climbing Family has done a nice interview with great pics from Eddie Fowke.

Marco Zanone, #7 in the 8a Combined ranking game, talks about what he likes the most.

Stefano Ghisolfi, who just did the FA of Lapsus 9b in Adonno and who is competing in the WC in Kranj this weekend, tells us how he trains. "I didn't train specifically for the route, the best training was trying it a lot and of course I train endurance for world cup so it is connected." His trainer is Roberto Bagnoli. Stefano's training is divided in four phases and what is interesting, he goes 100 % in the last session, two days before the competition. - In January, I begin with power, with a lot of bouldering and few moves on the wall and a system board. Then I do more moves in the second phase, not endurance but power endurance. Later, I use to do circuits from 30 to 60 move until one month before the first comp. In these periods I train 5-6 days per week and some days I have double session. During competition season I do from 3 to 5 sessions per week. More specific and similar to the competition format and moves. During this I use to climb outdoors and doing circuits indoors. I normally have just one rest day before a comp and during the day before I do three-four 30 moves maximum circuits or routes with 30 minutes rest in between. (c) Enrico Veronese

Jorg Verhoeven, one of the leading multi discipline climbers in the world, who won the Lead World Cup in 2008, reports on Facebook, "YEAH!! I climbed the Wheel of Life, one of my all time dream problems! After working the 60+ moves into perfection I gave it one good go a day and ended up on top on day 5. I took the full experience topping out at the highest point and thus adding a little spice to the end. I can't agree to a route grade, since it doesn't gain much height, nor needs rope or draws, and comparing it to other (only slightly) similar boulders it seems 8C would be fitting. Don't get me wrong, but similar to freeclimbing the Nose, I almost feel a little sad it's over..." (c) Jon Glassberg The FA was done in 2004 by Dai Koyamada, who gave it 8C+ grade but what Jorg did was a harder direct finish that James Kassay did the FA of, giving this harder variation also 8C+. Altogether, it has seen some ten repeats that also have been graded up to a 9a+ route grade.

"Discover the world’s most spectacular climbing routes in breathtaking 360°-panoramas." Until now, Mammut has uploaded seven big walls including El Capitan. It is like real climbing and turning your head to have a view on the great landscape or up- or downwards.

Adam Ondra has prepared for the last WC in Kranj by doing Modified 9a+ in Frankenjura and making the FA of C.R.S. 9b in Mollans. Screenshot from Bernardo Gimenez "What a moment! Extremely satisfying ascent, nice to feel the progression on the real rock. This route bolted from Seb Bouin is just ultimate power endurance testpiece, combining desperately physical overhang with extremely thin holds on the very top. Last try, last day, 3 days in total and 1 try two years ago. Never did the "real" 9b so fast, not even close:-) This cliff (close to St Leger) is the future, ranked number 2 after Flatanger for me in terms of 9b's and more...and it is not secret spot any more..." In total, this was Adam's 13th 9b which can be compared to the runner-up Chris Sharma with 8 routes of this grade. Then there are seven climbers who have done one.

Boreal has updated the Kintaro model, which was developed from the first version — about which we had previously written a few years ago — and has a few novelties we’d like to share with you having tried them for a period of six months. Here in this review you can read what we've found about this nice 4 x 4 of a climbing shoe.

Stefano Ghisolfi, who has done three 9a+'s to date, has made the FA of Lapsus 9b in Andonno which is a link up of Noia 8c+ into Anaconda, 8c, and he comments on Facebook, "Finally after long time and a lot of tries, I sent the hardest project I ever tried. I spent many days on it, falling many times at the last section. Today the conditions were perfect, we came in Andonno just in the afternoon and after a quick warm up I climbed the route on the second go of today. I propose a new grade for me and for Italy, I think this is much harder than Biographie and Demencia. I'd like someone will come to try it soon to confirm the grade, maybe Italian history has been made!" (c) Enrico Veronese In total, there are only eight climbers who have done a 9b. Last year Stefano won one World Cup and this year he has been in Top-10 in all but one event. Next weekend, the Italian will compete in Kranj.

Most of the 650 routes in Railay Beach were developed some 15 years ago when Glenn Smith, Andrew Anderson and Simon Talltorp found and started to develop Gibbon Roof. With 12 * 50 meters, it is the biggest cave in the area, located only some 8 minutes from the last bungalows above Ton Sai. How crazy is that? Until now 13 routes have been developed but there is enough room for some 30 routes out of which one could be 50 meters of roof climbing in a nice setting above sand. Here you will find more info and here is a topo. Picture by Derek Cheng. Beside this great new sector, there are many more crags being evolved around Railay and here is some more info about Railay Beach updates.

Full story with great pictures of the 15-year-old, Matteo Manzoni, who has done an 8A+.