NEWS

Edu Marin has also done Chilam Balam 9a+ (b)
Edu Marin reports on Instagram that he has done Chilam Balam 9a+ (b). This summer he was focused on multi-pitches with his father who also belayed him on Chilam Balam. This was the fourth repeat of Barnabe Fernandez's 80 meters long endurance monster, which originally was given a 9b+. Edu has previously done 8 routes 9a or 9a+ and in 2006 he won the World Cup in Chamonix.

Adam Ondra and Jain Kim won the Combined title. The fact is, however, that Jain did just participate in one Speed event, where she was second last, and in no Boulder event. The only competitor who participated in all three disciplines was Sean McColl, who did 12 out of 18 events. What does this say about the IFSC aim to include all three events in the possible 2020 Olympic Games? Here are the results from the combined ranking: 1. Adam Ondra 674 - Jain Kim 432 2. Sean McColl 486 - Akiyo Noguchi 421 3. Domen Skofic 407 - Yuka Kobayashi 286 Complete results.

Bloomberg presents "The Bulgarian Duo Leading an Indoor Rock Climbing Revolution. The unlikely story of how two friends created the worldย’s biggest climbing wall company in Europeย’s poorest country."

18 November 2015

Adam Ondra sums up 2015

9a FA in Frankenjura again by Alex Megos
Alex Megos reports on Facebook that he has done yet another 9a FA in Frankenjura, Space Lap. (c) Daniela Ebler "Might have been the last really good day in the Frankenjura?! And I made the best of it! Not only that the climbing legend Jerry Moffatt was with us at the crag but also did he cheer me on while doing the FA of another 9a in the Frankenjura! It was a project of Philipp Warda who belayed me during the send. I called it "Space Lap"!

17 November 2015

Kranj Lead WC summary

First 9a by Stefano Carnati (17)
Stefano Carnati, Euro Youth Champion and #2 in the World Championship 2015, has done his first 9a, Coup de Grace in Sonlerto. It was put up by David Graham in 2005 as a 9a+ and repeated by Gabri Moroni, who gave it a personal grade of 9a. "I tried this route for the first time about one year ago and soon realized it was too hard for my level. This year I came back really motivated to try it again and after some tries I managed to figure out the moves, but linking them seemed impossible! Last week, my father drove me to Sonlerto. Conditions were good and I felt quite well. After a good attempt, on my third go I set on send-mode, climbed the first part quickly, took a long rest before the roof and went through the last section until the final jug! I tried to calm down a bit and then climbed the final slab to the top of this big boulder! Coup de Grace was done!!!!"

Era Vella 9a (8c+) by Magnus Midtbรธ
Magnus Midtbรธ, #4 in the World Championships 2011, has done Era Vella in Margalef saying "Best route ever!" and giving it a personal grade of 8c+. The Norweigian has previously recorded 15 routes between 9a and 9b in his scorecard. (c) Joรฃo Giacchin "Surprisingly fast in pretty damp conditions yesterday. Maybe the best route ever! Bolted and first ascended by the legend himself, Chris Sharma .Since then new beta was found and to me it feels more like 8c+ now. Grades are not written in stone and it's not science, so for them to be somewhat accurate we should all keep an open mind." Stay updated on his instagram This is in fact the third popular 9a in the area, which the Norwegian has given a personal grade for. over the years, 8a has received comments from two repeaters confirming what Magnus suggests but they did not want to go public. Last winter, Jonathan Siegrist actually compared Era Vella with some 8c's he had done. It was in 2010, Chris Sharma opened Era Vella as he was warming up suggesting it to be a soft 9a. Today, the 50 meter long and one of the best hard routes in the world, has been repeated more than 30 times, which makes it by far the most popular 9a in the world.