Chris Sharma reports on Instagram that he has done the FA of Vision Quest (9a) in Mallorca, after some 30 sessions spread over six months. Although Deep Water Solo has been practiced for almost 50 years, it did not gain global recognition until 2006 when Chris made the groundbreaking ascent of Es Pontas (9a+). Since then, the 43-year-old legend has made the FA of Big Fish (8c+/9a), Alasha (9a) and last year Black Pearl (9a+). This means Sharma has completed all five of the world's most challenging DWS routes, and every single one of them is in Mallorca! (c) Isaac Estévez, Helena Clancy

Can you tell us more about the ascent, the process behind and how you explore them?
I’ve been developing deep water solo routes in Mallorca for 20 years now. I found this wall from a boat, marked a spot, and later hiked back in. Alasha? I stumbled upon that one after swimming for three hours. Others, I’ve discovered by kayak. Then it’s all about rappelling down with cams, sky hooks, and whatever else I can use. If I had bolted it, it would’ve taken just a few hours, but doing it this way? It took me six days before I could even start from the ground.

When I’m up there, it’s just me, a GriGri, and the moves in my head. Rappelling down solo like that—it’s pure exploration, but yeah, sometimes I’m hanging absurdly high over the water, burning an hour on just a couple of moves, and thinking, What the hell am I doing up here? This is just crazy 😀

When I start climbing from the ground, I always have someone with me. I’ve taken a few 15-meter falls—those were fine—but my worst fall? Easily when I slammed on my back from 10 meters. That one was brutal.

DWS is often characterized as vacation climbing. It’s certainly super fun but it’s also seriously hard, challenging work—especially in December.

The route itself has an 8B boulder crux, followed by relentless 8b+ climbing. It might only be 28 moves, but man, they’re sustained and seriously pumpy. Super happy of this new addition to the collection of hardcore DWS climbs in Mallorca!

Adam Shahar, who during the last five months has sent four 8B+' and two 8C's, has ticked Sleepwalker (8C+) in Black Velvet Canyon, logging it as an 8C. "Was able to get her done second sesh after working out the moves and links Sunday with a dope squad. Tried the low a bit today and super stoked on returning for return."

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Last week I took a four day trip to Red Rocks Las Vegas with the sole goal being to work out sleepwalker and get an understanding of how I match up with the climb. After a great first working session things all seemed to be more reasonable than I had first thought. After warming up and rehearsing links I was able to take down the line first try from the bottom on my second day. This was a surreal feeling as I vividly remember watching the FA video five years ago and hoping one day I would have the abilities necessary to complete an ascent. Here we are now way earlier than expected! After a short break in SLC I am now heading back to Red Rocks hoping to give a good effort on the lower start! 🤞

Did you have time to check the Sit?
Yes, I was able to flash into sleepwalker from the bottom and on my third go got to the big bump move. I thought it was something like v12 [8A+] maybe? I’ve heard others say 13 but I didn’t think so.

Roxane Durand, who five years ago at age 34 sent her first 8b+, has completed Rue Gamma (8c) in Peillon. During the last year and a half she has done 13 routes 8b to 8c, meaning she is peaking just a couple of days before turning 40!

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I am so happy having sent this route cause it is a nice big classic one in Peillon, and for me it is also the end of a long process wich started 3 years ago. 😮This route is a real monster 👹, a kind of 3-in-1 route : It starts by the 8b « Das Boot », which needs a lot of power and core strenght, and also good conditions cause of the no texture pinch in the crux. After a big rest the route continues in the specific part of Rue Gamma. The crux consists of a big lock-off with the right arm pulling a mono and a left heelhook on the hand, all in a roof ! To finish, you have to climb the quite resistant part of the 8a+ Vizir. Sending this route was trying to make everything happen in the same time, trying to align these 3 planets : Das Boot – Rue Gamma – Vizir ! 🌒🌘🌓

After sending Das Boot in 2021, I started to try Rue Gamma but I wasn’t able to do the crux with the mono. Also, I tried only 5 sessions a year so I didn’t make any progress in it so I had no conviction at all to be able to send it one day, and no much motivation.😞 This year I realised it had no sense to continue trying this route if I wasnt able to do the crux and if I didn’t manage to go more often. So I decided to train specifically the move with the mono, and I bought for this route, a Monofinger hanging device to give me a chance to maybe one day be able to send it! In April, I was able to do the crux with the mono but not to send again the Das Boot part… By the way my motivation increased and I did 5 sessions in the route in spring, and I went again in the route in autumn. In December 🥶, with much better conditions than in autumn, I sent Das Boot again and started to fall in the mono crux and to have good tries, which motivates me a lot !

Last wednesday, 5 days before my 40th brithday 🎂, I aligned all the 3 planets and sent this big classic, which wasn’t an easy 8c for me ! Such a nice feeling to realise that I did something I was thinking impossible 3 years ago ! 🤩😃 In total, I did 22 sessions (12 this year), 53 tries (without considering Das Boot) ! During the ascent, after not falling in the two principal cruxes, I needed to stay focus a lot, to breath and stay calm until the end… And everything went perfectly ! 🥳🎉

Alex Huber has done the FA of the vertical 76-meter-long Mythos (8c+) at Barmstein. In February, the German mountaineer was diagnosed with a brain tumour and underwent emergency surgery almost immediately. Fortunately, the tumour was benign and successfully removed, but recovery was a challenging journey. After a three-month pause, he gradually regained strength over the summer and achieved two remarkable first ascents. The first, Überleben ("survival"), is a short multipitch at Brendelberg graded 7c, 7b, 8b and the second, was Mythos an extraordinary feat just months after life-saving surgery. (c) Heinz Zak

The 55-year-old was one of the greatest climbers in the world during the 90’ies. In 1996 he made the FA of Open Air (9a+) which has only been repeated by Adam Ondra, who upgraded it to 9a+. In fact, several of Alex’ hardest FA’s have later been upgraded. During the last 25 years, his focus has been putting up big walls and multipitches. In 2022, he made the FA of the six pitches Ramayana (8b+) after having worked it ground-up alone with a soloist set up.

Can you tell us more about the 76 m route and the process behind it?
The "Mythos" is on the north face of Barmstein, a cliff which is just a 10-minute walk from my home. The route itself has some three parts.... the first 35 meters are overhanging but good featured somewhat in the 7c - range, then followed by 25 meters of very compact, almost featureless wall. In this continuous crux there is no one single good hold or foothold. With the last move of the crux being 60 meters above the ground the route is a mind game. You shouldm't get nervous about these delicate and tricky moves. The last 16 meters are still compact but have holds of normal size and the difficulty does not exceed the grade 8a+.

I started working it occasionally in August, but even though it is a north face, the temperatures were way to high for really attempting it. It was much more for „training reasons“. Then in October came the good temperatures before I finally climbed it on the 1st of November.

How long falls did you take?
Falls were up to 15 metres, maybe even a bit more because there is so much rope involved. But falls are basically soft and due tot he nature of t he route without any risk. During the ascent I intentionally didn’t clip one oft he bolts and accidently couldn´t clip the next either… because oft he weight oft he rope, clipping is really difficult. Brain surgery at age 55, how did you manage to get back in shape so fast?
Because of a bigger defect of the Dura Mater which was closed by an artificial tissue, it was necessary to avoid any activity whatsoever after my operation in February till June. Then I started with therapeutic climbing and in July I began climbing outdoors. As there was some certain epileptic risk I started climbing just toprope, mostly self belayed with minitraxion. Six month after the surgery I went back to alpine climbing in the Dolomites with Simon Gietl and this was the moment for me when I could see myself coming back to normal.

If you ask me how I could come back in shape so fast... it felt different for me. Six months of no real climbing is something which has never happened to me since I began climbing some 40 years ago. It is a long walk but I always felt better after climbing so it was the best therapy for me.

Taisei Homma, #2 in the Lead World Cup in 2022, reports on Instagram that he has completed La Rambla (9a+) in Siurana, one of the most famous routes in the world. Alexander Huber originally bolted the route and completed the 8c+ FA to an intermediate anchor in 1994. Later, Dani Andrada added two bolts leading toward a neighboring route, and in 2003, Ramón Puigblanque achieved the FA of the full line at 9a+. Now, with over 30 ascents, this 41-meter-long route is the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Shinta Ozawa

Sungsu Lee, who has just signed up with six 8C’s and one 9a+ only in 2024, has completed Lucid Dreaming (8C) in Buttermilks. (c) Gum Jang Su

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Bishop is the first rock trip I went on with my Korean homies. I’m happy to be back here. It took 5 sessions to send it this, and now it’s time to start another project. I’m working on The Process (8C+) now! and since I’m leaving Bishop on 12/31, I don’t have much time left🙄

Janja Garnbret has reported on Instagram that she during a quick visit to Schleierwasserfall last month has done Hide and Sick (8B+), Power of goodbye (8B), Wrestling with an alligator (8B), Black Jack (8A+) as well as a flash of Orgasmatron (8A). Earlier this year, the double Olympic winner sent Bügeleisen (8C) and won all the five World Cups she participated in.

Gabriele Moroni, who last month sent an 8B+ and Megalodonte (8C) in Val di Mello, has made the FA of Prima Linea (9a+). Over the past 12 months, the 37-year-old has climbed another four routes graded between 9a and 9b. Gabri works as the head routesetter at Urbano in Milan, while also setting routes for both national and international competitions. Additionally, he serves as a coach for Team Italia. (c) Luca Consonni

Can you tell us more about the FA?
The day Alberto Gnerro invited me to join him at his crag, I couldn’t contain my excitement. I’d heard about this legendary wall for years but never felt the urge to ask if I could tag along. Alberto has been one of my childhood heroes—a climber I’ve always admired and the most prolific route developer in our region. I’ve been climbing on his creations since I was a teenager, and I’ll always be grateful for what he’s done, and continues to do, for our community. That first day at the crag was unforgettable. I was in awe of the wall’s sheer scale and steepness—it was both impressive and intimidating. Alberto pointed out a line I could barely make out, a route with seemingly no features. “That’s the first route I bolted here,” he said. “It should suit your style. You have to try it!”

Fast forward to this season—20 sessions later... I’d just returned from several days of route-setting in Paris. I should’ve felt exhausted, but that wasn’t the case. Straight off the plane, I drove to the project and ended up having one of my best sessions yet, despite the lack of sleep. Later that week, I found myself with a rare free day. It was dry, windy, and not too cold—the kind of day climbers dream of. Everything lined up perfectly. I felt light, in a way I hadn’t for a long time. The atmosphere was relaxed, just me, Stefano Bianchi, and Alberto. I felt supported and at ease.

When I stepped off the ground, I knew this time was different. The send didn’t come as a surprise—it felt natural. I was completely connected to every hold, fully in control of both my body and my mind. It was an incredible moment, made even more special by having Alberto there to witness it. A true full-circle experience.

How come you think you possibly have had your best 12 months outdoors ever?
I think I have reached a point where my private life, work and performance are aligned and I can express myself at my best. I don’t train much, but I constantly give my body some stimuli. And finally, this is the first year since 2015 that my elbows don’t hurt.

Mattea Pötzi made 4 out of 6 World Cup finals in 2024 including one podium and overall she was #7. This continued her previous progress for the last four years, when she has been 55 - 29 - 15 overall. On rock, she has had similar progress from having done her first 8a+ in 2020 until this year sending her first 8c+ route as well as her first 8A+ boulder.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo, who earlier this autumn sent two 9b+’ in Flatanger, has repeated Chris Sharma’s Stoking the Fire (9b) in Santa Linya. The 25-year-old is #1 in the Vertical-Life ranking game. ”Really cool moves with crazy drowknees in a perfect hard endurance section. It was always a dream line!” (c) Mar Diaz Miranda