Bernd Zangerl is one of the first famous boulderers. He opened many of the early hard core problems in Ticino and especially Magic Woods including two 8C+'s that nowadays are considered 8B+. UKC has made a new interview with the profile of Bernd, currently living and exploring boulders in the Himalaya. In general, the pioneer is very critical towards the modern 2.0 scene and the article finishes in this way: "There is high pressure in the outdoor industry, so there is also high pressure within the sport itself. Nowadays it's more important to wear the right clothes of the right brand with the right colours. You have to visit the "bouldering hot spots“ of the world and share your private moments on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram. Some athletes spend more time on social media, than on the rocks, because the smart use of various media channels, particularly web 2.0, enables almost everyone to reach a certain reputation by merely spending a few hours per day on the web. This was definitely not the case ten years ago." In the UKC article he is also critical towards grades and how the community deals with them, which he also said in an 8a article in 2011. He has stated that the reason for why his grades were inflated was because the first repeaters just kept confirming his initial FA grades. Here is a greatvideo of the FA of Shantaram 8C/+ outside Trondheim. The picture by © Ray Demski/Red Bull Content Pool is from Die Versorgungslinie, which he did this autumn. No FA grade but Bernd says it is his hardest ever and it was done as a five year long ground up project that took 150 tries. Other quotes from the outspoken great pioneer. - I want to mention that I don't support those "training camps“, where seven year old kids are following a training programme! - With the notion of „personal grading“ the rating has lost its original purpose, anyway. - In the end I (and also Fred Nicole) were indicted for inflation, for using overblown grades. - Depending on who is grading, or more importantly downgrading a problem, we accept the grade without any further discussions. The achievement of 11-year old Ashima Shiraishi climbing 8B boulders seems less important for the community. Why? Is she a special case of climber, because of her age or weight, her finger-size? But Ondra for example also has very specific physical preconditions, clearly differing from the average climber. Adam for sure can downgrade for example “Shantaram”, skipping two crux moves because of his extraordinary ape index. I am interested in their grade suggestions, but which weight should it be attributed to in the public? Is the “brave” repeater the only voice which holds true? For me “Shantaram” is one of the biggest highlights of my climbing career. It's an extraordinary climb and way harder than anything else I did before. (Personal grade: 8C/8C+)

Domen Škofic reports on Instagram some amazing news, "Yesterday I on sighted one 8c and today I did La Fabela L1+L2 9a in third try but I ripped the skin of my left ring finger in the lower crux, I was surprised I could finish it of with totally bloody hand." (c) Jernej Vukotic His big project is Neanderthal 9b, "I have 4 tries on it and I feel I could send it in the next 4 or so... But you know how it is, it can go the next try or after I don't know how many. Right now I hope my finger heals back fast. In the Lead World Cup 2015, the Slovenian was #4 after winning one event and in the 8a ranking game, Domen is also #4.

Climbers-Fingers has created a calendar for 2016, which you can download in 16 languages.

Simon Parton has done the fifth ascent of Terremer, 8C in Hueco Tanks, which was set up by Fred Nicole as an 8C+ in 2005. It is an extremely sharp and crimpy link up of an 8A (+) into an 8B (+).

Jakob Kronberger has done his third 8c+ of the last month, Vollmond in Salzburger Land. Having done also his first 9a this summer, the 181 cm tall and 14 year old should be one of the most promising teenagers out there.

EPICTV SHOP has already started the X-Mas sale. Beside their very low prices there are their some offers, ex.: 1. 300 grams of chalk when buying climbing shoes 2. Free T-shirt when buying E9 or Prana pants or sweaters The Prana Avril Pants for women cost Euro 45 including free freight and if you are a member it is even cheaper, and then you get that free T-shirt!

UIAA has published a dramatic report with the conclusion that 304 stainless steel bolts are a part of a "horror movie" and they should not be used outdoors. This means that all stainless steel 304 bolts should be removed by Titanium or 316 steel bolts and that 99% of all (1 million???) bolts placed at all crags in the world are at risk. Most critical factors are: “moderate” relative humidity location, areas NOT washed by rain, high temperatures. Limestone/dolomite is generally worse than sandstone or granite (karst rock is the worst case). UIAA says that within months some bolts will only hold few tens of kilograms. Here are some answers from UIAA, when asked for clarifications of their dramatic but unclear recommendations that Titanium must be used and why the normal stainless steel quality 304 should be avoided also at inland vertical granite crags etc. "Tests shall start soon to clarify exactly which stainless steels material will be suitable (and not only titanium) and the standard should be updated next year. The UIAA Safety Commission does not find 304 steel bolts/anchors appropriate for outdoor use because 304 anchors are not expected to last 50 years in the outdoor environment." The UIAA report has been questioned by Eman Pellizzari.

Planet Mountain has the full story.

1.Maxim Tomilov RUS - Maria Tolokoniva RUS 2. Alexey Tomilov RUS - Ekaterina Vlasova RUS 3. Seregey Tarasov - Angelika Rainer SUI Full report and here a 51 min video.

Cathy Wagner started climbing 30 years ago and now, being 50 years old, she is having her best year ever with 55 routes 8a and harder done. Just during the last two weeks, she has done three 8a's and two 8a+'s including Nosferatu in La Palais, which she did yesterday.