NEWS

Download your free 2016 calendar
Climbers-Fingers has created a calendar for 2016, which you can download in 16 languages.

Simon Parton has done the fifth ascent of Terremer, 8C in Hueco Tanks, which was set up by Fred Nicole as an 8C+ in 2005. It is an extremely sharp and crimpy link up of an 8A (+) into an 8B (+).

Destivelle: Winning but hating competitions
Catherine Destivelle was the first female rock star and was considered #1 sport climber during the late 80-ies and then she continued during the 90-ies with groundbreaking mountaineering ascents. Here is a documentary with the "Rock Queen. Now she is working as a publisher and her latest book is The 9th grade, 150 years of free climbing. On the picture by Uli Weissmeier she is together with Lynn Hill, whom she actually beat most of the times. How did you like comps and why did you stop so quickly? I have never enjoyed climbing competitions. The first time I took part in a competition, I just wanted to know what it would be like because until then no competitions had ever taken place in Western Europe. My friends encouraged me to take part, they said I couldn't say I hated competitions until I had actually tried. That's why I entered the first international climbing competition which took place on a natural rockface in Bardonnecchia, Italy. Taking part in a competition was really stressful for me. Why? To be honest, I was afraid of measuring myself against the others, afraid of losing. I had never competed and I was reputed to be one of the best French climbers; if I lost, my pride would be hurt. At the end of the day, despite the stress, the competition turned out to be a positive challenge. I won: I came first in everything! At the time, there were three prizes: style, speed and difficulty. Thanks to this outcome, I got several sponsors and I was able to stop working as a physiotherapist and spend all my time climbing.   I didn't consider taking part in other competitions because, above all, I found them stressful. I wanted to climb mountains. Unfortunately this ambition was rapidly jeopardized by a foolish 35 meter fall down a crevasse. I broke my pelvis and my spine and I was lucky to be alive. However, I was weakened by these injuries and I didn't feel strong enough to go back to the mountains.   As the media still presented me as the best woman climber in the world, I felt like I needed to go back to competing. I needed to prove them right, to justify whether it was true. So I returned to compete in Bardonnechia the following year, intent on winning. During that year, I worked hard to build up my strength again. My great rival was going to be Lynn Hill. I thought she was the only one who could beat me. In order to win, I studied the rules of the competition. Speed was still part of the criteria to win. I bet on that, and I won. Phew !... After that, I took part in very few competitions.

9a again by Domen ยŠkofic
Domen ยŠkofic reports on Instagram some amazing news, "Yesterday I on sighted one 8c and today I did La Fabela L1+L2 9a in third try but I ripped the skin of my left ring finger in the lower crux, I was surprised I could finish it of with totally bloody hand." (c) Jernej Vukotic His big project is Neanderthal 9b, "I have 4 tries on it and I feel I could send it in the next 4 or so... But you know how it is, it can go the next try or after I don't know how many. Right now I hope my finger heals back fast. In the Lead World Cup 2015, the Slovenian was #4 after winning one event and in the 8a ranking game, Domen is also #4.

X-Mas sale at EPIC TV
16 December 2015

X-Mas sale at EPIC TV

EPICTV SHOP has already started the X-Mas sale. Beside their very low prices there are their some offers, ex.: 1. 300 grams of chalk when buying climbing shoes 2. Free T-shirt when buying E9 or Prana pants or sweaters The Prana Avril Pants for women cost Euro 45 including free freight and if you are a member it is even cheaper, and then you get that free T-shirt!

Jakob Kronberger has done his third 8c+ of the last month, Vollmond in Salzburger Land. Having done also his first 9a this summer, the 181 cm tall and 14 year old should be one of the most promising teenagers out there.

UIAA has published a dramatic report with the conclusion that 304 stainless steel bolts are a part of a "horror movie" and they should not be used outdoors. This means that all stainless steel 304 bolts should be removed by Titanium or 316 steel bolts and that 99% of all (1 million???) bolts placed at all crags in the world are at risk. Most critical factors are: ย“moderateย” relative humidity location, areas NOT washed by rain, high temperatures. Limestone/dolomite is generally worse than sandstone or granite (karst rock is the worst case). UIAA says that within months some bolts will only hold few tens of kilograms. Here are some answers from UIAA, when asked for clarifications of their dramatic but unclear recommendations that Titanium must be used and why the normal stainless steel quality 304 should be avoided also at inland vertical granite crags etc. "Tests shall start soon to clarify exactly which stainless steels material will be suitable (and not only titanium) and the standard should be updated next year. The UIAA Safety Commission does not find 304 steel bolts/anchors appropriate for outdoor use because 304 anchors are not expected to last 50 years in the outdoor environment." The UIAA report has been questioned by Eman Pellizzari.

Planet Mountain has the full story.

1.Maxim Tomilov RUS - Maria Tolokoniva RUS 2. Alexey Tomilov RUS - Ekaterina Vlasova RUS 3. Seregey Tarasov - Angelika Rainer SUI Full report and here a 51 min video.

Cathy Wagner started climbing 30 years ago and now, being 50 years old, she is having her best year ever with 55 routes 8a and harder done. Just during the last two weeks, she has done three 8a's and two 8a+'s including Nosferatu in La Palais, which she did yesterday.