NEWS

Impressive year by Klemen Becan
Klemen Becan summarizes 2015 and in onsight, he has probably been Top-5 in the world. (c) Anja Becan "The year is over and looking back on what I climbed I think it was not that bad at all. In 2015 I did: 8b On Sight 11x (2x FA) 8b+ On Sight 8x 8c On Sight 1x 8c+ Red point 4x (3x FA) I bolted 33 new routes in 6 different countries graded from 6b to 9b? (16 of them still waiting for the FA).

Alex Megos started up the first day of 2016 by doing First Ley 9a+, which begins at First round, first minute 9b - a route he he did on the last day of 2015. The young German also did a new 9a variation, La Ley indignanta. An interview by our Spanish editor, who is at the scene, is to come soon. 2015 was the best year ever for Alex Megos as well as for the whole climbing community and now the bar has been set for 2016. Enjoy the new year and keep pushing!

Top-10 Boulders and pictures 2015 by Niky Ceria
Niccolo Ceria, the winner of the 8a Boulder ranking game 2015, has as usual put together his Top-10 list of boulders 2015 including superb pictures. Stefan Kuerzi has taken five of them including this one of The Big Island 8C in Fontainebleau.

8c+ FA by Alex Megos
2 January 2016

8c+ FA by Alex Megos

Alex Megos strikes again and today he reported on facebook, enclosing a photo by Daniela Ebler, "First ascent of today at Margalef! "Hostia, no PUC" 8c+! Bolted by Jรถrg Andreas one year ago. Name by @_felixfelicius_ meaning "Damn, I CAN'T" in Catalan.

After a few years of stagnation of grades reached by the top climbers in a year, a new level has been reached in 2015. In practice, six guys have done a 9b, some 16 guys have done a 9a+ and roughly about 60 guys have done a 9a, which is almost 50% more compared to previous years. When it comes to the performance in Bouldering, especially the of female and juniors, 2015 is the record year for boulders as well as for routes. The only discipline where we did not see any great progress was Onsight Climbing. In order to be among the best Top-10 in the world in 2015, a couple of 8b+ and some 8b's is good enough. This can be compared with Adam Ondra's nine 8c onsights in 2015. On the other hand, he has done 18 8c+ and harder onsights in total.

Alex Megos reports on Instagram that he has done the second repeat (after Adam Ondra) of Chris Sharma's First round, first minute 9b in Margalef, "My first highlight of 2015 was "Lucid Dreaming" my first ever 8C (V15). With "Supernova" 9a+/b I did my HARDEST first ascent ever. TODAY! On my LAST GO of the year, I did my HARDEST route ever with "FIRST ROUND FIRST MINUTE" 9b!!!"

Second 8c flash and an 8b OS by Janja Garnbret (16)
Luka Fonda comes with another superb picture of Janja Garnbret, who flashed her second 8c yesterday in Santa Linya, La Fabelita. The 16-year-old got the beta from Mina Markovic, who belayed her and explained the moves. The Slovenian onsighted also one 8a+ and La Ruta del Sol 8b. Having been in Top-3 in all the three World Cups and #2 in the Euro Championship last year, Janja is #6 in the 8a Climber of the year list, where her Slovenian teammates, Mina and Domen Skofic are #2 and #9 accordingly.

9a by Ruben Firnenburg (18)
Ruben Firnenburg, who did his first 9a when he was 16 years old, has done his third one, A Muerte in Siurana. The picture is from a 9a project in Santa Linya. "Have been working on it with Gabri Moroni 3 years ago but felt really hard. In this year's Spain trip it felt much better although this bouldery beast is rather my anti-style. On my second day I came already close to send it falling off the last hard move. Then the day after I somehow couldn't seal the deal and fell three times in a row on the last move. To me it felt like a soft 9a. Maybe it's 8c+/9a. But grades are individual and this route took me a lot of time and effort to complete."

Another 9a picture by Luka Fonda
Over the years, Luka Fonda has been the most published photographer on 8a and this photo of Mina Markovic on La Fabela Pa La Enmienda 9a in Santa Linya is just another stellar one. In total, the climb has 18 ascents now, which makes it one of the most repeated in the world and Mina's ascent was the first female ascent.