
4 February 2016
The Olympic format - The qualifications might be the biggest shame!
It seems quite likely that Climbing will actually make it to the Olympics 2020. This is of course very good news and IFSC should get full credit for making it happen.
The IFSC plan is to let 30 + 30 athletes compete in Lead, Speed and Bouldering during four days. Three medals would be awarded to the best male and female competitors with the best combined score. Detailed info starts on page 40 of this document.
The suggested qualifying quota is;
Top-3 in the World Championship
Top-3 in the Youth World Championship
Top-9 in the World Ranking
Top-3 in five Continental Championships; Africa, Europe, Asia, America and Oceania.
In practice all these qualifying events, including the World Cups, must be run with the same four days combined format. Surely, it will be a hype and most of the best will go all in. However, it just might be that several who are not willing to sacrifice full season for a ticket to Tokyo see a great opportunity. Instead they could focus just on one discipline and win the World Championship or World Cup, when the best must have a wider focus. Imagine that maybe none of the guys in the Olympic 2020 will get a discipline medal in the World Championship or even in the overall World Cup 2019?
A previous 8a poll shows that most climbers agree with Chris Sharma that this suggested new format is a big shame!
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


