NEWS

9a by Reffo Silvio in Osp/Misja Pec
Silvio Reffo has done his tenth 9a or harder and reports on Facebook with a great picture by Luka Fonda. "Another great weekend of climbing in Misja Pec, finally I managed to climb Sansjki par extension 9a. I had already tried the route last year but yesterday I crushed it. This 9a is very different despite the other hard routes that I climbed, short and intense.

Laura Rogora has had an amazing climbing day at Sperlonga having done two 8b+'s, Piccoli gesti and Viaggio=infinito Sperlonga. In total, the #2 in the 8a ranking game, has done six routes 8b+ or harder. Her first 8c she did 13 months ago. Last year, the 14-year-old won the Italian Championship beating Lenny Lavarda who was among Top-23 in all the six WCs.

prAna - Fair trade and Environmental focus role model
- Do you print on recycled paper? That was the very first sentence and the most important issue for the prAna reps was. once we met them during ISPO 2006, selling ads for the 8a yearbook. The question made so strong an impression that we decided to dedicate the back cover of the yearbook to just talking about the environment. Now prAna is also focused on Fair Trade and they were one of the first apparel companies to offer Certified clothing. The Fair Trade Standards are designed to address the imbalance of power in trading relationships, unstable markets and the injustices of conventional trade. In practice the goal is to secure better deals for farmers and workers. Selling banners to prAna is both frustrating and eye-opening as they always want to talk about their Sustainability program including also recycled, organic and Blue Design certified garments. We are very glad to have prAna as one of the major 8a sponsors once again. Shortly there will be an 8a prAna T-shirt available.

8B flash again by James Webb
James Webb has flashed his 12th 8B, Barrel Rider in Eldorado Canyon. "Knowing that it was pretty much perfectly my style I decided to go for a flash effort and found myself at the top. ๐Ÿ‘Œ Cheers Colorado! Catch ya sooner than later. For now it's back home to get geared up for ABS nationals and more importantly 6 weeks in font!!

Tonsai at Railay still a paradise
Bjรถrn Dr 8a Alber, Tonsai local, active since 1999, comes with great news regarding Railay. "Contrary to popular belif I found Tonsai to be in the best shape in many years this year. As is evident in the picture of Ymer Alber on Tonsai playboy with Tonsai beach in the background. The infamous wall is there but only surrounds what is a much cleaner beach. The crowds were smaller but the Tonsai atmosphere is alive and kicking. The area enclosed by the wall is probably going to be built in to bungalow resort and along with that a severely needed new sewage system will be constructed Picture by Sumphon Suebhait (King of Railay) who has been running King climbing school and been writing his guidebook on Thailand climbs since 1996.

8a the leading global sport climbing website
Here are some official stats from SimilarWeb suggesting that 8a is the leading global sport climbing website. Measured by traffic, 8a is #4 but the higher ranked get most of their visitors from their country of origin. It is also interesting that all the other major websites do get most of their traffic from Google search, Facebook etc meanwhile 8a gets 87 % by visitors actively writing www.8a.nu in the browser. Thank you for your active interest :)

The Game 8C by James Webb
James Webb comes with great news on Instagram, with a picture from Isabelle Faus. "Cold conditions today in bocan but things seemed to work out. On my first go of the session I sent 'The Game' V15. Feels so good to finish it off just before rolling back home. Huge props to @dawoods89 for puttin up this beast and a huge cheers to the krew for stickin with me the past few days!" Daniel Woods made the FA in 2010 after 17 days of projecting giving it 8C+. Later Carlo Traversi made the second ascent giving it a personal grade of 8C, having found a better sequence which also Jon Cardwell agreed upon, although he broke a crucial hold. Woods said that some of the new holds used have gotten bigger due to brushing.

8b+ onsight for Steve McClure (45)
Steve McClure has been on a great trip to Chulilla, where he onsighted a dozen 8a's and some harder routes, including Taka Okame 8b+. Not bad for a 45 year old. Here is his modest comment. Photo Keith Sharples "Great place Chulilla, loved it, super tech. One of best places I've been for ages, though its ages since I've been anywhere! Not sure I onsighted 8b+. how can one tell? Other than how it feels, and what the guide says! It says 8b+, other say 8b+, it felt 8b+. Still, I found it really hard, but onsight you never know, you get it wrong and you really can't say. But my efforts are irrelevant really, in todays climate, not even worth a mention, I'm amazed anyone is interested! Its almost embarrassing that a few of my routes would make 'news'. Still, maybe its because I'm so old I should have given up and grown up...."

Oriane Bertone shows great fighting spirit onsighting Snake Cave 7C in Rocklands. The day after she did one more 7C problem.

8B+ and 8C by Kevin Lopata in Font
Fanatic Climbing comes with the great news that Kevin Lopata has done the 4th ascent of Misti 8C in Fontainebleau. The professional double bass musician at the music academy of Lille has also done Mรฉcanique รฉlรฉmentaire 8B+ in the forest. - "Misti is very esthetic line, with a continuous effort where I am quite comfortable in this style... Small holds, technical feet moves, resistance,... It just requires me to improve a little bit in undercling body tension...Not to bad for me. About Mรฉcanique, it's the opposite ! Big body tension, no foot, and a weird heelhook at the beginning. I like this style and I'm training a lot for that and it pays ! This 2 problems show to me that for having the success you must stay focused and work hard !"