In general terms, all finger techniques are equally good. However, different techniques suite different climbers, holds, angles and rock. Most climbers have a dominating finger position and this position is therefore trained frequently, meanwhile the abandoned techniques are getting weaker. A balanced gripping repertoire is the key factor for any top-climber Learn how to get much stronger in an hour.

Mina Markovic is back in Spain and reports on Facebook with a great picture of Luka Fonda that she has done Dogma 8b+ in Siurana on her first try. Some would call this an onsight, what do you think? As it share an easy juggy start with Kalea Borroka, which I already flashed before, I did it on RP and I can't call it an 'onsight'. But it dosn't matter as it was definitely one of the unforgettable ascents.

Daniel Jung reports on Facebook that he has done Xaxid Hostel 9a and Histerija 8c+ in Misja Pec, "just before the holds got too wet. Not so sure about the grades of the routes I send, maybe they are soft or I trained to much." Daniel has previously done eight 9a's and La Rambla 9a+ beside putting up many routes including trad.

IFSC has put together a press release from their Plenary Assembly in Tehran where Tokyo 2020 Olympics and Sport Climbing in Iran were the main topics. Interestingly, Marco Scolaris said that it might not be just a Combined event as previously suggested. - We cannot say anything about the format at this point as the decision has not been taken yet. We believe that Sport Climbing has all the assets: new, fresh, young". Most climbers, including Chris Sharma, have been critical towards the Lead, Bouldering and Speed combined format with just one set of medals.

Last week, 8a received a new All Time High both when it comes to Sessions (124 844) and Unique Visitors (38 540). Thank you very much and thanks to the team helping out in different ways. We are always looking for more climbers that would like to help, write to [email protected] if you are interested. At the moment we have 61 000 members who have recorded 3.8 million ascents that will guide you to the best crags and climbs in the world. We hope to present the new scorecard pages' design in a few weeks.

Alex Puccio is about to take female Bouldering to a new level. She has done Nagual 8B in Hueco Tanks in just one hour. "Super psyched! 2nd try from the start. Took about an hour or less. These crimps are so sharp, but really cool movement! Another fun day!!! :)" This was also her third 8B in just four days and in the ranking game she is #19. In total, Alex has done 16 Boulders 8B and harder and in fact all of them the last 18 months. Maybe it is time to start challenging 8C?

Log-in and find your "friends'" scorecard and click: "Add to My Friends - Stay updated on all ascents from this Scorecard/Log-book" In the same way you can go to a specific crag and click: " Add to My Updates >= All" You can also choose more specifically if you want only 8a ascents and more etc.

Diego Marsella, who started climbing in 1986, has repeated his hardest route Analogica Natural Left recording it with a personal 8c+ grade. Previously he had fallen 12 times at the last move. What is amazing, he did not do any warming up beside some fingerboard and stretching exercises. (c) Manobu Yomena How is it possible to be at your peak at 44 and what is your next project? For motivation and passion for climbing. I believe climbing as a life style. I do not care the myths about the ages. I do what I love. I do not have projects beside living the vida loca.

Climbing shoes follow the toes making the front end rounded. If instead the shape of the shoe would be flat, like in the ballerina shoes, it would probably be easier to stand on sharp wide micro edges. In normal shoes, less rubber gets in contact with such specific footholds. The problem is that this square shape makes the shoes perform worse in all other conditions and once rubber is rounded off, the benefit is reduced. In fact, one shoe company has checked this possibility but it did not work out also based on the estimated price. However, as the sport is growing in popularity, the shoe companies and the sponsors will be willing to invest more money and the top athletes might have as many shoes in the bag as the golfers. Remember that some weeks ago, we discussed the opposite. The shoes could have a super rounded specific big toe compartment in order to squeeze in only the big toe in two finger pocket. Two weeks later, Charles Albert squeezed his big toe in a small pocket, creating a FA in Font that is said to be impossible with normal climbing shoes.