Alexey Pinchuk has compiled a comprehensive list of all 9a+ and harder ascents from the past 30 years. In 2021 and 2022, well over 100 of these extreme ascents were recorded. However, the following two years showed a downward trend, with some 90 ascents in 2023 and just around 80 in 2024. The primary reason for this decline in 2024 was the limited number of first ascents (FAs) at 9a+ and above, with only 15 new routes established. Here you have the article with all the stats.

The top list 9a+ to 9c ascents
Adam Ondra 83
Seb Bouin 46
Alex Megos 44
Jorge Diaz-Rullo 37
Stefano Ghisolfi 32
Jonathan Siegrist 31

Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, who was #7 and #12 in his two last World Cups, have sent Lucid Dreaming (8C) in Buttermilks. Adam has during the last five months done his first four 8C’s. ”This real? Or just dreaming? Most meaningful ascent yet. Means the world to me. Proud.”

We got the full story from Austin as well as a picture of him. (c) Taylor Bolt

”My story with lucid started a long time ago, I remember watching the Reel Rock segment with it getting climbed and being super inspired. Fast forward to my first trip to Bishop, standing under the grips I knew I had to try. I managed to climb the high start “Rastaman Vibrations” relatively quick that season. I knew it was game on. I ended up dedicating 5 more days to the full line only sticking the pinch from the ground once.

On trip two I only had one goal, Lucid Dreaming. I tried for about a month consistently sticking the pinch and falling on the jump. One night Ross Fulkerson inspired me to try a double clutch dyno method and I managed to stick it in iso. I got closer and closer having my last burn of the trip be my closest.

This year my tactics were a little different. I trained on the sim [replica] a bit and just felt all around much stronger. When I showed up this year I repeated all the moves first try on my first session. Day two on it this year I managed to do the “two move link”, linking the move to the pinch and the jump. I gave it two ground burns that night and got agonizingly close. On the third session of the trip I knew I was ready and took it down first try of the day. It felt surreal climbing the slab and I was rewarded with the prettiest sunset I’ve ever seen in Bishop.”

Michele Reusa and Matteo Reusa (pictured) have completed Cobra Reale (9a) in Andonno.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Michele, 18: It is a connection of Cobra (8b) and Anaconda (8c). It is a route of resistance strength and I am very happy to have done the route because it is not my style.

Matteo, 17: I tried this route last year, always falling on the last move. this year when I came back to try it I managed to send it.

Now the teenagers are in Margalef where both have onsighted 8b and redpointed several other hard routes 8b+ and beyond.

Bayes Wilder made his first headlines sending an 8c+ as well as four 8A+’ at age 10. Working on the grade pyramid, he waited until he turned 13 to match his father’s [Matt] PB by sending, Life of Villains (9a).

How have you as a father tried to give him a good start of his climbing lifestyle?
My goal has always been to make sure he's enjoying himself when climbing. In addition to that, I tried to foster enjoyment through challenging and pushing yourself. Now he's pretty psyched on it so I don't have to do much to make him like it, but I do try to help him keep a good frame of reference and to realize that climbing hard is not everything.

How does a normal climbing week look like for Bayes?
During the week, he usually does 2-3 indoor training sessions and workouts with his coach. Then depending on the weather and other things scheduled, we'll do one outdoor day on the weekend and perhaps also an indoor training day. Most of the outdoor climbing he does is while on vacation from school.

What do you like most about climbing?
Bayes: I like how unique it is compared to other sports and how no two climbs are the same. There are so many sick, intricate moves out there and crazy holds. It always keeps me entertained to do climbs. Also I like the climbing community. There's so much psych and good energy out there.

”I’ve finally completed my long term goal of sending a 9a/14d by doing Life of Villains in the Hurricave! LoV is a beautifully choreographed climb. In order to have enough gas left in your tank to fight your way up the final boulder on the climb, you have to execute each and every move with precision and technique, flow through the twists and turns of your body, mold your fingers into the unique shapes of the holds, and efficiently stab your feet their exact locations. It is uncharacteristic to other climbs in the Hurricave being super steep but not climbing too much like it, having a more approachable aspect with relatively straightforward moves, and having different holds. This climb is none like any other I’ve seen, probably one of my favorites. All of the these aspects give Life of Villains a super fun, interesting complexity. A MASTERPIECE.

I met the First Ascentionist of LoV and developer of most of the Hurricave, Joe Kinder. He’s such a fun, cool guy with so much insight for sick, hard routes. He has so much psych and he gave me the motivation to keeping fighting while still having fun and having a positive outlook. Ben Hanna har just got back from Spain and on his first day back on LoV for a long time, he sent! It was so cool to watch him on it because the route meant a lot to him after having projected it for 30+ days. Also huge thanks to Tyler Thompson for beta and psych on my first day of trying Life of Villains.

Not only did I project LoV on this trip but me and my parents went roadtripping around a couple places in the Southwest area. We went to the greater LA area and then Joshua Tree. After Joshua tree, we went to Sedona to climb on the beautiful sheer faces and cracks. All in all, this Winter Break trip was super fun with climbing in all sorts of new and beautiful places. I’m so glad that my parents give me the opportunity to climb in such magical places and be with such amazing climbing community, meeting new people every day.”

Alma Bestvater spent New Year as usual in Brione, where she sent Darkness (8A+) and Frogger (8A) (pictured). The 28-year-old climber began competing in World Cup events in 2013 and achieved her best results in 2018, securing 5th and 6th place finishes. Following a serious shoulder injury in 2022, she took a hiatus from competition. Despite this setback, she made an impressive return in 2024 being 22nd overall. (c) Felix Beyer

Can you tell us more about the trip and the highlights?
The trip was amazing, and I’m happy to share more about it. One of the highlights was finally sending Darkness. I actually attempted it a year ago, but back then, I got a nasty cut that stopped me from finishing it. This year, it was still on my list, and luckily, my skin held up against the razor-sharp crimp this time. There’s honestly no better feeling than realizing you’ve improved, both mentally and physically.

Funny enough, it was almost exactly six years ago that I climbed Molonk (7C), and at the time, it was a massive project for me. Coming back this year and sending Molonk Left (7C+) in about 10 minutes was one of the most satisfying climbing moments of the trip—and probably the whole year.

Right before jumping into Darkness, I also managed a pretty quick send of Red (8A). The day before, I worked on Frogger, which was a fun little one-day side project as well.

Andrea Chelleris, with eight 9a’s and harder under his belt, has done Estado critico (9a) in Siurana and he got the send on video. In the ranking game the 15-year-old is #12 but when it comes to onsight he is #3.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Already on the 3rd try I fell on the last hard move but the next days there was a lot of sun and on the first crux when the light is too bright it’s not so easy to see and stick a hold after the jump. On my send try I was very lucky to have some clouds so I better could see the hold.

Ben Hanna sent Ace of Spades (9a+) in 2022 but he waited 17 months to post it until the video was finished. Luckily, we only had to wait a couple of days for getting his full story sending Life of Villains (9a). (c) Ian Dzilenski

”Y’all have no idea how long I’ve been waiting to make this post. It’s hard to say if any other climb has ever meant so much to me. The process on this one was long, hard, and so much fun. Last October me and Kai Lightner set out to hurricane for an extended trip to try and send Life Of Villains. The days were grueling but each one we were making progress move by move, it seemed like it was only a matter of time before it happened. On the last day of the trip Kai pulled it off, but I still had a few more moves. Kai being the amazing friend he is, extended the trip a week to give me the time I needed, but I still couldn’t make it happen. Thank you Kai.

I then spent the next 3 months going out to the cave almost every week. Most times day tripping the 8 hour round trip to try it, but kept falling on the last 3 or 4 moves until the season finally ended. Now being back from Spain my first priority was getting this process going again, but to be so real when I woke up at 5am this morning I genuinely thought “am I really about to get in my car and drive 4 hours to fall on the same damn 2 moves right now?” The answer was “yes”. Then I hit a proper white out storm on the highway, driving 35 down i80 with less then 40ft of visibility I pulled over and I asked myself again. “Why the hell am I doing this.” Non the less, I couldn’t convince myself to turn around and I am so glad I didn’t.

My first go up the climb felt super bad, I hadn’t climbed in 4 days and I was definitely feeling it. I kinda wrote the trip off, but then my second go everything turned on and it felt perfect. I got to the crux almost totally fresh and started to have a little panic attack, the little voice in my head saying “this is it, you’re gunna do it, this is the try”. I was able to shut it out though and focus on movement at hand. It was a little stressful once I got to the jug though, the last bolt is not hard at all but you definitely have to try and I hadn’t been up it is so long I had no ideal where the holds were or what the beta was. Especially after dropping the top of Bumbayé twice, I was very aware of how hard “easy climbing” is when your pumped, but thankfully I didn’t make that mistake again, Hahaha.

It was soo rad getting to share the send with Bayes as well, him and his family are absolutely wonderful people and I can’t wait to see what else he does. LOV was not anywhere near his limit!

Laura Rogora has during a one week trip to Mišja Peč, without any restday, sent Strelovod (8c), Sanjski par extension (9a), Histerija (8c+), Martin Krpan (9a), Xaxid hostel (9a), Človek ne jezi se L2 (8c+) and Talk is cheap! (8c). Previously during the last four months, after winning two golds in the European Championship in September, she has sent five 9a’s and Trofeo dell'Adriatico (9a+). (c) Giulio Diener

Which routes did you like the most?
I like them all but probably Histeria was one of the best line and Sanjski par has super nice moves.

How come you think the last three months have been your best outdoors ever?
I think it depends by the time I dedicate to the rock. In the past 3 years I have never spent so much time outdoors.

Did you send any routes on the seventh day in a row and how tired were you?
Clovek ne jezi se [2nd go] and Talk is cheap. Quite tired🙈 the send try on Talk is cheap was quite desperate.

What are your plans for 2025?
I will compete in the lead world cup. Maybe something in Boulder also but I am not sure yet.

Ben Hanna, who just got back from a trip to Spain where he did three 8c+’, and Bayes Wilder, 13, have done Life of Villains (9a) in Hurricave. ”Gawd damn! It feels good to close this one out today! After 30 some days, finally did the thing, and with a double send with Bayes! First time I have ever cried after a climb.” More info to come.

Georg Parma has completed Forgotten Gem (8C) in Chironico. The 27-year-old first time made the VL/8a headlines in 2012 when he won the European Championship in Lead and flashed an 8a+ at age 14.

”So happy about this ascent. It has been the third season on it and I knew I had it in me to send this time. Still the line between failure and success is extremely thin, which makes me proud to have climbed this one. Frist of this grade for me. Thx to all the people that joined me on this line... Jonas, Maxi, Clem, Thomas... and Tina for capturing it and believing in me!”