Eloi Lorente García has has made the first repeat of Enrique Beltran Blasco’s Pozo verde power (9a) in Pozo verde. (c) Rebeca Cardenas

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route cost me 13 days of work and from the first days I felt very good on it but the bad conditions and humidity made the process very difficult for me. The route is super physical and very blocky. The first four moves are 8A block, then without rest you have to do another 7A+ block, then you have a medium rest and at the end a 7C block that is quite aleatory.

What is your climbing background?
My experience with climbing began when I was nine years old. Since I was little, I have always liked the mountains and from the first moment I was passionate about climbing. In 2022 when I was 16 years old I did my first 8b the next year, 2023 when I was 17 years old I did my first 8c and this year when I was 18 years I did my first 9a. Due to competitions I don’t have much time to go out on rock but I have always loved it. This season has been quite hard for me and being able to do this route has been something incredible.

What are your plans and ambitions in 2025?
In competitions, this year I would like to be able to reach more than one final in the absolute Spanish championships. My dream has always been to be part of the Spanish climbing team this year. I would like to try to enter and if that is not the case, I can continue getting closer and closer to my dreams.

For this year on rock I don’t have big goals in mind at the moment since the one I had in my sights was to do this 9a but I would like to be able to do 8a+ or 8b onsight. Another thing I have in mind that I would love to do this year is 8B block.

But above all, what I want most for this year is to continue enjoying the processes and the climbing.

Alex Garriga, who previously last year sent 6 routes 9a and beyond, finished 2024 by doing a 9a+ extension to his El subnormal del antihydral r1 (9a) in Cuenca. (c) Javi Pec

Kacper Heretyk, who did his first 9a in May, has sent Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč.

Can you tell us more about sending your second 9a?
It was truly a long battle; it took me several trips, but I have great memories of each one. I love this kind of climbing, where you not only face the challenges of the route but also challenge yourself. The longer I spend on a route, the more emotions I experience during the process of figuring out the moves.

It's a fantastic way to get to know yourself better. That’s exactly how it was this time—once I managed to send the key boulder problem in one go, I made it to the top.

As for the details of the ascent, I completed the route using kneepads. I don't think they affected the difficulty—it’s just that the hooks are very demanding and extremely suited to my style.

When it comes to the number of attempts, it's hard for me to say exactly, but I spent about 10 climbing days on the route (not counting attempts on easier routes that were part of the process).

Yu Okumura reports on Instagram that he has repeated Chris Sharma’s Stoking the Fire (9b) in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

Previously he has sent, Fuck The system (9a), Chilam Balam (9b), Gancho Perfecto (9a) and Joe Mama (9a+). When it comes to boulders, last year he did La force tranquille (8C).

Vojta Trojan, with twelve 9a and beyond climbs under his belt, has ticked Mr. Big (9a) in Margalef. ”So good! Thanks Tom for such an experience. About the grade I would say rather soft, but it’s my style so I have no idea honestly. And honestly I don’t care so much.. this climb is just amazing.” (c) Vojta Ruta

Can you tell us more about the trip and the send of Mr. Big?
I’m so syked to be back here in Margalef. I almost forgot how much I like the climbing here! We’re very lucky with weather our whole stay here - climbing in decent conditions in the sun in Espadelles sector. Sometimes it’s too warm, but it gives you the vacation vibes which is not too bad!

I tried Mr. Big like a side project and got very close to send it very fast, falling on the very last hard move just 3 moves below the anchor. That try I opened a split and had to wait a bit to heal it. In the end I sent the route with a tape, which is maybe the first one for me :D

Piotr Schab has been on a ten days trip to Alicante where he has onsighted nine routes 8a+ and beyond including 2is evolution (8b+)and El Ultimo Mono (8b+). In total, the 28-year-old Pole has onsighted 36 routes 8b+ and beyond meaning he is a contendor to be the runner-up in the world after Adam Ondra and Patxi Usobiaga in this disciplin. He is also the #1 in the VL yearly onsight ranking game.

Can you tell us more about the trip and your focus on onsight?
New years trip with my family, climbing with my father who introduced me to this world 20 years ago. Mostly onsighting since I’ve never really climbed in Costa Blanca and always loved onsight game. Cheers to all of the Sella community for a nice week!

Giorgio Tomatis has completed Seleccio Natural (9a) in Santa Linya. In total, the 21-year-old has now done seven routes 9a and beyond.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
This route is a nice testpiece of power endurance. I send it in 8 tries and I felt one time on the last move. I love this stylr of route and I think it’s an hard 9a. In this trip to Santa linya I send also La Novena Puerta (8c+) in 5 tries and I started to try Stoking the Fire (9b), I will come back in by best shape for this one⚔️

Alexey Pinchuk has compiled a comprehensive list of all 9a+ and harder ascents from the past 30 years. In 2021 and 2022, well over 100 of these extreme ascents were recorded. However, the following two years showed a downward trend, with some 90 ascents in 2023 and just around 80 in 2024. The primary reason for this decline in 2024 was the limited number of first ascents (FAs) at 9a+ and above, with only 15 new routes established. Here you have the article with all the stats.

The top list 9a+ to 9c ascents
Adam Ondra 83
Seb Bouin 46
Alex Megos 44
Jorge Diaz-Rullo 37
Stefano Ghisolfi 32
Jonathan Siegrist 31

Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, who was #7 and #12 in his two last World Cups, have sent Lucid Dreaming (8C) in Buttermilks. Adam has during the last five months done his first four 8C’s. ”This real? Or just dreaming? Most meaningful ascent yet. Means the world to me. Proud.”

We got the full story from Austin as well as a picture of him. (c) Taylor Bolt

”My story with lucid started a long time ago, I remember watching the Reel Rock segment with it getting climbed and being super inspired. Fast forward to my first trip to Bishop, standing under the grips I knew I had to try. I managed to climb the high start “Rastaman Vibrations” relatively quick that season. I knew it was game on. I ended up dedicating 5 more days to the full line only sticking the pinch from the ground once.

On trip two I only had one goal, Lucid Dreaming. I tried for about a month consistently sticking the pinch and falling on the jump. One night Ross Fulkerson inspired me to try a double clutch dyno method and I managed to stick it in iso. I got closer and closer having my last burn of the trip be my closest.

This year my tactics were a little different. I trained on the sim [replica] a bit and just felt all around much stronger. When I showed up this year I repeated all the moves first try on my first session. Day two on it this year I managed to do the “two move link”, linking the move to the pinch and the jump. I gave it two ground burns that night and got agonizingly close. On the third session of the trip I knew I was ready and took it down first try of the day. It felt surreal climbing the slab and I was rewarded with the prettiest sunset I’ve ever seen in Bishop.”

Michele Reusa and Matteo Reusa (pictured) have completed Cobra Reale (9a) in Andonno.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Michele, 18: It is a connection of Cobra (8b) and Anaconda (8c). It is a route of resistance strength and I am very happy to have done the route because it is not my style.

Matteo, 17: I tried this route last year, always falling on the last move. this year when I came back to try it I managed to send it.

Now the teenagers are in Margalef where both have onsighted 8b and redpointed several other hard routes 8b+ and beyond.