22 February 2025

Eva Hammelmรผller ticks Blanquita (8c+)

Eva Hammelmรผller, who last weekend sent her second 9a, has done Blanquita (8c+) in Oliana in just two sessions. โ€Long moves in the first part on good holds, long moves in the second part on pretty bad holds :D I really enjoyed this route, yet my skin was not so keen at first (checked it out in the sun, though, which was't my best idea in hindsight). Returned two days later without much better skin but without sun as well, was told better beta (thanks so much again!!) and managed to send the route next go! SO PSYCHED.โ€

Over the last seven climbing days, the 24-year-old, has ticket a total of ten routes 8a+ and beyond including the epic flash of Mon Dieu (8a+) also in Oliana. โ€This was CRAZY. Thought I'd be fast enough and didn't need a headlamp, but it turned out the sun was faster than me, and I had to feel rather than climb my way up the last 15 meters. Thanks Felix for guessing pretty well at which move I was and telling me roughly where to go. Big fight and race against the dark!โ€

How can you best explain being in your very best shape if your life?
This winter, my main goal was to focus on power and finger strength. However, I struggled quite a lot with colds and being sick the past few months, which is why my training quantity was pretty low. Due to this, I had to rest a lot, but maybe that had a positive effect on my max power (not on my endurance though haha). When we started our trip, I felt strong physically, and I was just SO much looking forward to rock climbing. After a few days of getting incredibly pumped, my endurance also came back, and I think the combination of these factors enables me right now to climb some pretty sick lines!
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