NEWS

Ryuichi Murai, who two weeks ago did two 8B+, has done Dai Koyamada's Babel 8C in Shiobara. "This problem links Catharsis(8B+) to Hydra(8B) via Uma(8B+). About 30 moves that include various moves made me enjoy myself." Totally amazing! Watch that mind-boggling sequence where the 167 cm tall spins 240 degrees with his foot. How is it even possible to find such solution :)

Triple 8C by Ondra, Amma and Jongwon
Sachi Amma reports on Instagram, adding a great picture from Eddie Gianelloni, that he, Chon Jongwon and Adam Ondra have done Asagimadara 8C at Mt Mizugaki. It was put up by Tokio Muroi, who did not use a crash pad, as a 6-Dan which is equivalent to 8C+ but it has later been downgraded. It should be noted that Ondra has not commented on the grade yet. Chon Jongwon won the Boulder World Cup last year and this was his first 8C. Sachi Amma has won the Lead World Cup twice and has been one of the best rock climbers in recent years. You all know Ondra's greatness so we are talking about the real dream team. Sachi Amma finished his post with, "Let's see what will happen the next days."

Review - OR's Deviator Hoody
The Deviator Hoody is the garment we liked the most out of all from the Outdoor Research we did during the last few months. It's a lightweight jacket primarily intended for aerobic activities or if you're looking for a mid-layer with insulation. Learn more about it as well as what we've found when using it while climbing outdoors in this review article.

Ignacio Mulero repeats Entropia 8C
Ignacio Mulero, who did his first 9a, Clandestino in Teverga, last autumn, has done his first 8C, Entropia in Castillo de Bayuela. The 26-year-old climbed 270 days last year out of which two days indoors. "I think that indoors make you stronger but I prefer to not be not strong and instead climb more on the rock. I spend all my time in climbing, searching and opening new boulders and routes. I am lucky because my family help me. If you spend time in the home areas you don't spend a lot of money." How is it possible to combine Routes and Boulders at the highest level? I do not train anything specific to do both things, I just climb. I am lucky to climb very often and throughout the year I can practice sport climbing and boulder. I think both can be practiced without problems. The strength and tricks that you gain in Boulder is great for climbing. Sport climbing gives you more resistance and more pace when you climb boulder. In the end, it is the same, climbing. In fact, the greatest climbers always practice both, right? Nowadays people try to do one thing or another better, instead of practice both. I think that is a mistake.

"Ramonet is the toughest FA grader in the world", was the headline of an article from last week. Since then many guys have stepped forward giving credit to 159 cm tall Ramonet and sent us examples confirming the headline. 8a has given examples of a 9a that Adam Ondra thinks is at least 9a+ and two Ramonet's 8c FAs for wich also 9a has been suggested and there is yet one more. In 2006, the double world Champion made the FA of Victimes futur recording it as an 8c in his scorecard. Later two guys have suggested 8c+ for it and in November 2015, Alex Megos reported on Facebook that he had done the route and said it was a 9a. Here is a comment from a guy who wanted to stay anonymous: "Everyone here in Catalonia knows that when Ramon grade a route, you can bet it will be superhard for the grade (like many 8b's people think can be hard 8c, 8c that could be hard 8c+...)." Another example is from the latest R & I where Jonathan Siegrist says he could not do Ramonet's Victimes del passat 8c+ after a couple of days of work at the same time as he did Era Vella 9a in his third try.

9a by Matteo Gambaro (41)
Gambaro Matteo has made the FA of Perfect man 2.0 9a in Albenga. Interesting is that he did his first 8c+ being 26, then many years later he did his first 9a, and now he has done three of them. - Perfect Man was bolted to Andrea Gallo in 1992. no one tried this roof before. I rebolted this line last year in January and begin try movements. Often this line is dry and a lot of time I failed in the end of the route. after this I broke two holds and re begin work the hardest moves. The line is all natural and very beautiful.

Climbing reports that an university study shows that rock climbers spend $3.6 Million a year in Red River Gorge. The study was conducted with funding support from Access Fund, Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition, and Eastern Kentucky University. "It also indicates that climber spending directly creates jobs and contributes to the local and state tax base. This study clearly indicates that rock climbing can be a strong economic driver in rural areas."

In 2013 Ramon Julian made the FA of Mejorando Imagen in Margalef suggesting 9a for it. Two years ago, Jordi Pou, who runs the local refuge wrote on Instagram that Adam Ondra said it was, "much harder than First Round First Minute" 9b, which he had just done. 8a asked Adam Ondra to comment; -The problem with Ramon is that he does not or cannot take into account that certain style of climbing just fits him too well. That is why some of his routes are very tough for the grade. He is unstoppable when it comes to pocket pulling with no feet, exactly like the route Mejorando Imagen in Margalef. He gave it 9a, but it is definitely at least 9a+. I am quite confident to say this even though it is my antistyle. And it felt harder than FRFM. But that does not mean that it is at least 9b. Because as I said, Mejorando Imagen is my antistyle.

One more 9a FA by Iker Pou (39)
Iker Pou reports on Facebook, with a great picture from Pedro Bover, that he has done the FA of Cleteropa original 9a on Mallorca, which was bolted by "Lito". Last year Iker did a 9a+ and he is equally famous for all his big wall ascents and overall the 39-year-old has been one of the best multi-discipline climbers of the last 20 years.