NEWS

For many years the very best climbers have been below average height and the best examples of this are; Ramonet (159 cm), Daniel Woods (169 cm) and Dai Koyamada (165 cm). Lately, more guys above 180 cm have been making headlines and as a matter of fact, in 2015 most of the very best were above 180 cm with Jan Hojer at 187 cm as the tallest. Based on that, I wrote two articles saying that the average height of the very best in 2015 was almost 180 cm. Interestingly, during the last weeks, many people below 170 cm, including the mentioned above, have struck back creating headlines.

Hiking and Scrambling on Kalymnos
carl dawson, a Kalymnian local who does 7c+ being 65 years old, has made a hiking and scrambling guide over Kalymnos which Kalymnos Adventure Center has picked up and started organizing different hikes. (c) Birgitta Lovernius The easiest one is the 3.3 km Italian Path, "Little Chinese Wall", which goes across the island from Pothia to Vathy. "This path history goes back to the Italian occupation of Kalymnos, 1912-1943. A well-build cobbled road connects the city of Pothia with the valley of Vathy and offers an enjoyable hiking and a magnificent view." More info on the hiking topo that also includes the path to come up on the top of Grande Grotta and some more difficult paths that could be considered as scrambling.

The Marinsโ€™ Alps Project completed with Samsara 8b+, 200m
Edu Marin, who won one World Cup in 2005, has had an impressive year with the ascents of Chilam Balam 9b and two 9a+'s. Apart from that, he finished his Alps project with his father. "Samsara 8b+, Lofer, (Austria). This route was opened by Alex Huber, and supposed the last route of The Marinsโ€™ Alps Project. It goes by three impressive roofs with a very technical and demanding fissures. A mixed route where you have to protect the most of the pitches with friends. I arrived to Samsara quite psychological and fiscally worn out due to we spent already two months climbing the hardest routes of the Alps (Orbayu, Digital Crack, Voie Petit ...) I knew that was the last challenge to complete successfully the project and that was even more exciting!!! Such a great experience to achieve all the goals proposed by the hand of your father, was something magic and unforgettable, the best present that we could give us each other!!"

One more 8C by Dai Koyamada (39)
Dai Koyamada reports on Facebook that he has done yet another 8C FA, Rokuou, which adds three moves to an 8B+/8C he did last week. In total, the 39 year old has done some 30+ 8C's meaning he has the most impressive 8C list in the world together with Daniel Woods. ยฉ Ikuko Serata

Euro 1 000 for redpointing Verhoeven's 9a at Bjoeks
"The game is on! World class allround climbing hero Jorg Verhoeven has created a new top route on Excalibur: 'King Arthurs Holy Grail, 9a'. A challenge and an invitation to all aspiring knights in shining armour to come, to conquer and to leave with a reward of โ‚ฌ 1000 in case of the first redpoint! Who's up?" Here is the video.

La Sportiva success story in the middle of the Dolomites
Good Friday at 16.00, the first step to make a pair of Skwama 38.5 is done by cutting out the rubber. Some 30 skilled workers and 1.5 hours later, the pair is controlled and put in a La Sportiva box and the factory takes Easter break. In total, La Sportiva employs 260 people now and they come mainly from Ziano di Fiemme, where live 2 000 people in total, and the surrounding mountain villages. During the last ten years, the increase in number of sold shoes has been some 10% annually. 100% of their shoes are hand made in Ziano di Fiemme in the middle of the Dolomites. Check for more pictures in the right column.

Second 8c by Angie Scarth-Johnson (11)
Angie Scarth-Johnson, who is on a three-month long road trip in Europe being schooled, has done her second 8c, L'Espiadimonis in Margalef. Previuosly in March, the 11-year-old has done two 8b+'s. Interesting is that Angie is the only one climbing in her family and she is her own trainer. (c) Joรฃo Giacchin "Hard pocket climbing to a ok rest then explosive climbing through red point cruxs, then hold on to the chains. So over the moon to have sent such awesome climb."

Matty Hong does Papichulo 9a+
Matty Hong, who has done three 9a's previously, has set a nice personal best and we have got the great picture from Simon Carter. What was the key to step up to 9a+ and what is next? "I've been in Spain for three months now - my post-graduation (University of Colorado, Boulder) climbing trip. I started trying Papichulo about half-way into my trip but also moved around and climbed at other areas. Maybe it wasn't smart to try something so hard at the end of a long trip since it's hard to maintain strength without training inside, so I was doubting myself a bit wether I was strong enough to do it. Now I will return to Colorado and work on editing a film from my trip with Daniel woods & Dave graham. Then hopefully I can make it to Ceuse for a try at Biographiรฉ!"