19 April 2016

Increase to 8 finalists in Boulder WCs

In many sports, as well as in Lead Climbing, there are 8 finalist but in Bouldering there are only 6. The main reason for this is time. With the current format two more finalist would lenghten the overall time from some 2 hours with another 30+ minutes, which obviously is too much. So what about starting parallel with 4+4 finalist who rotate with 15 minutes of rest, add a fifth super final problem and a coffee break problem, and still in do it in 2 hours? It could look as below: 1. Top-4 ranked male or female start: Min 0 - 10 2. Ranked 5 - 8 male or female follow: Min 10 - 20 3. Boulder umber #2 for both male/female: Min 20 - 40 4. Boulder #3 for both male/female: Min 40 - 60 5. Boulder #4 for both male/female: Min 60 - 80 6. 20 min extra rest and analyses: Min 80 - 100 7. Super final for Top-4 on a fifth boulder: Min 100 - 120 The format can be either IFSC with reversed starting order or as it is done in Arco, counting all five boulders.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ