NEWS

Anna Stรถhr is the most successful female competition boulderer. Wrestling with an alligator in Malatal was her fifth 8B after: The Riverbed in Magic wood - 2010, The Vice in Rocklands - 2013, The Power of one in Rocklands - 2013 and Boogalagga in Chironico - 2015.

yihaaaaaa - today i climbed klem loskot's classic 'wrestling with an alligator' 8b in maltatal :)

Posted by Anna Stรถhr on Monday, March 28, 2016

7 million euro worth gym in Bruneck (16 000 inhabitants)
Kletterzentrum Bruneck which opened last year was a 7 million euro investment done by the School Ministry of South Tyrol in Bruneck. As the city has only 16 000 inhabitants it might be the largest investment per capita. Interestingly, the closest city is 30 minutes away, is similar in size, and also has a new climbing gym. In total, there are almost 40 gyms in South Tyrol with just some 500 000 people living there. The size is also impressive for such a small city; Routes indoor ca. 1370 m2 Routes outdoor ca. 450 m2 Boulder ca. 680 m2

Kajsa Rosรฉn (18) - A new star in the making
Kajsa Rosรฉn, who did her first 8c and flashed an 8b+ last week, has done Mind Control 8c (+) and onsighted T-1 Full Equipe in Oliana. There is only a handful of female who have onsighted at this level before. "What to do next? Still suprising myself here in Oliana." Last year, the 18-year-old was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did. loic Timmermans, who is still ahead of Kajsa with one 9a, reachead out to 8a with a nice reflection. "Kasja is crushing all the routes she's trying like nothing. I was even more impressed when she told me she did Mind control without getting pumped. I think she has a good attitude to. Not taking things too seriously, just climbing and see what happens.

Two 8c (+) OS and a 9a+/b by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has had a great weekend. First he did the FA of Vicious Circle 9a+/b in Osp/Misja Pec, which he bolted last year. (c) Luka Fonda "Left start into Sanski par. Bouldery and short 8c+ into the most of the Sanski par 9a (without first six moves). I would say two 8c+'s with a bad rest in between. Super powerful and resistant climbing. The next stop was Medveja, a new secret zone in Croatia. It was one of the best days of climbing ever as I onsighted two 8c's ('The Core' is considered 8c+ by those few, who repeated the route) and the first ascent of 'More', 9a. World record maybe? Haha. Most of the routes are slightly overhanging, crimpy on super solid rock with a minimum of Sika and in general fitting my style pretty well. The last day I tried a project in Pandora, a different zone in Istria, which is definitely pretty hard in the region of 9b or more. Something like 20m of bouldering in the roof. Definitely a lot of rock around there worth returning for."

Free topo of Peloponnese from Vertical-Life
"Get your #free #topo with the code: MRBOB and discover #Lagada, hidden high amongst the alpine meadows and pine forests of majestic Mt Taygetus, the highest mountain on the Peloponnese (2407m)." Vertical Life will give out one free Topo App every week.

8c+ by Brooke Raboutou (14)
Brooke Raboutou reports on Facebook that she has done Southern Smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. Previously the 14-year-old did several headlines on 8a including one about an 8b+ that she did four years ago. Brooke's parents are Didier, one of the leading climbers both on the rock and the competition scene some 20 years ago, and Robyn Erbesfield - the world's best competition climber between 1989 -1995 and a very successful trainer.

8b+ flash and a 8c by Kajsa Rosรฉn (18)
Simon Carter, a professional climbing photographer for 25 years, reports on Facebook: "I've seen a lot of really impressive climbing over all the time I've spent at Oliana over the years... and add to that today's jaw-dropping sends by 18 year-old Swedish climber Kajsa Rosen. First up she hiked Fisheye (8c) first shot (after only working it twice yesterday), for her first of the grade, and THEN casually flashed Los Humildes pa Casa (8b+) soon after (pictured). Kajsa Rosen; a name to watch out for for sure!" Simon is spot-on as the young Swede has had an extreme development over the last few years. In the past year, she was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did. So how much beta did you get and do you still plan to get yourself a station wagon and hit the road? I saw a french guy climbing it and he told me about a knee bar. I heard some screaming from below but it was very windy. My plan is to do some comps and some rock climbing and have fun. I graduate this year so hopefully I will have some more time for climbing.

8B (+) flash by James Webb again
James Webb has traveled to Finland to take part in Sisu Masters with an amazing line up including Daniel Woods and Dave Graham but also to try Nalle Hukkataival's Boulders. First they had to crush some ice on the top of the Globalist in Sipoo and then James just flashed it and gave it a personal grade of 8B. The best flash boulderer in the world has now flashed 13 8B Boulders, four out of which were originally graded 8B+. (c) Nico Backstrรถm "Absolutely incredible boulder from Nalle that I've wanted to climb on for so long. Perfect rock, amazing movement. One of the best!" Next up could be Hukkataival's famous Sisu or Lappnor Project that the Fin has been trying for six respectively four years speculating that it could become the next level.

8c+ and US Nationals for Margo Hayes (18)
Margo Hayes, who was #6 in Vail Boulder WC last year and got two silvers in Youth World Championships, has had some great days, first winning the US Lead Nationals and later doing Pure Imagination 8c+ and Omaha Beach 8b+ on her second go in Red River Gorge. (c) Christine Ruana. You will find more photos on Margo's website. How was the two experiences and what is this year plan and ambition? I am truly honored to have become National Champion. It has been a dream of mine since I watched the competition for the first time in my Hometown in 2011. It was an incredible experience for that dream to come true! As for Pure Imagination, it has also been a goal of mine for a very long time. Since Sasha's send of the climb several years ago, I have know that I wanted to climb it someday. I have a poster in my room, and I always thought it looked like one of the most beautiful climbs in The Red River Gorge. It felt surreal to actually clip the chains. This coming year, I am taking time off of school before attending University. I would like to take time to focus on climbing, art, and learning French. I hope to compete in several world cups as well as climb outdoors!