NEWS

Nathan Williams, who started climbing in 2012, has flashed his first 8A+, Black Hawk Down in Topside. The 17-year-old did his first 7C+ just 17 months ago so do not be surprised if Nathan shows up in more news from Rocklands shortly.

8A+ by Megan Mascarenas (18)
Megan Mascarenas, who was #4 in the last Boulder WC, which actually was her worst result during her last four WC events, has done Jack's Broken Heart 8A+ and Sofa Surfer 8A in Magic Wood. In the 8a ranking game, the 18-year-old is #3. In two weeks she will try to defend her title from last year in the Boulder World Cup in Vail.

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders. The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

Sweden, Italy and Slovenia got two gold medals in the European Youth Cup in Imst. Even so, Austria was the best country overall with seven medals. Germany continues having hard time to get any good results and their best result, achieved by the handful of participats they had, was #9. 97: Kajsa Rosen SWE - Hannes Puman SWE 99: Janja Garnbret SLO - Filip Schenk ITA 01: Laura Rogara ITA - Luka Potocar SLO

Be One reduces rope wear
Be One is an innovation from Beal that will reduce rope wear, which is especially useful for the redpoint guys working on their projects. Be One has an enlarged receiving zone meaning lower impact on the rope. Instead of the normal thin and often oval bottom of the carbiner, Be One is thicker and more rounded. If you are one of the projecting redpointers, it might be a very good investment to place a Be One at the crux as it will reduce rope wear.

Four 8A's for Karo Sinnhuber
karoline sinnhuber, who was #5 in the China Boulder World Cup last month, has done four 8A's during the last week, including Nothing Changes (in the picture). Full story and more great pics by Lorenz Ulmer.

Adam Ondra has done a quick one day ascent of Alex Megos' Geocache 9a+ in Frankenjura, which actually took Megos six days and 40 tries. - Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.

In sport climbing, compared to most other sports, there are few written rules and small need for referees. Instead, the climbing community creates and circulates their own Practice & Ethics. Beginners sometimes struggle to understand what "normal" behavior means, what's allowed and what's not. Over the time, the general procedure has been modified and in different subcultures different ethics apply. Read full article from 2002. In order not to decide exactly what is Right or Wrong, we have chosen to present the Practice & Ethics in Sport Climbing as a traffic light system. Please speak your mind.

Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!
Jon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Cรฉรผse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries. - Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"

TNF Mountain Festival 16-18/8 at the foot of Eiger
"Introducing The North Faceยฎ Mountain Festival, an immersive celebration of exploration, set in Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland, at the foot of one of the most iconic mountains in the Alps, the Eiger, from 16 โ€“ 18th September 2016. Leave normal behind and disconnect yourself for a weekend, joining likeminded modern day adventurers for a unique opportunity to taste and trial the delights of day to day outdoor living in a breath-taking natural setting. From running mountainous trails for the first time, to following a pro athlete up a rock-face, learning gourmet expedition cookery or simply sharing tales of extreme adventure around a campfire, there will be something for everyone. The festival caters for all levels from novice to advance with both introductory and challenging, hikes, trail runs and climbs in stunning scenic surroundings, led by The North Faceยฎ professional athlete team. The festival is designed to equip you with all the skills and knowledge needed to become an avid adventurer, with expert mountain guides and athletes on hand providing basecamp workshops and talks including inspiring stories of exploration, epic outdoor cinema, adventure photography and expedition kit prep. For the brave and intrepid there will be the chance to experience paragliding or rafting, and even attempt to summit the Eiger alongside one of the The North Faceยฎ athletes. This truly will be an adventure to remember" Video presentation and here you have all details.