|Sport climbing practices with different interpretations
Green Card -
Yellow Card -
Red Card -|
Ascent not valid!?
|1. Onsight beta
This style means that you should not receive beta (information) on the route before climbing.
|Talk and discuss with anyone who doesn't have beta on the route. Use binoculars. Ask questions like - Do you think I can do it?
||Belay but look down, once. Ask questions like: Does it suite my style?
||Read topo descriptions like - 'Crux at the third bolt'. Where did you fall off? Look at route when rapelling a neighboring route. Tick-marking by a friend. |
|2. Gri-Gri locking/Rope drag
Dynamic moves to footless often create pendel swings which may be stopped by Gri-Gri or by tight belay.
|Provide enough slack so that the swing is not affected.
||Holding down the release and actively give rope.
A Gri-Gri that has locked due to a swing. Any rope drag due to tight belay, even if it's the belayers' fault.
|3. Pre-clipping carabiners
Having the rope pre-clipped in a carabiner, like a top-rope.
|One pre-clipped carabiner if it's for safety.
||Two or three pre-clipped carabiners if it's for safety.
||Three or more normally always means top-roping. Downclimbing is ridiculous.|
|4. Onsight reversing
In competitions you are not allowed to downclimb to the ground but outdoors?
|If you reverse once after the first move or two, due to a wet hold, wrong sequence etc.
||If you reverse more than once. If you have clipped the second carabiner.
||If you systematically downclimb to practice moves. If you untie and rest. If you have clipped in 3 or more carabiners. |
|5. Cheating stones
Stones used for reaching the first holds.
|If it's done and included in the grade by the First Ascent.
||"I did it with an extra stone to reach the start holds"!
||In order to ease an established start and keep the grade.|
|6. Grabbing/Clipping anchor
Use of anchor carabiners as an artificial hold. The route is defined by the crag not by the anchor.
|Climb the mountain not the anchor, which means that the 'top' is often above the anchor.
||Finish by clipping an anchor which is placed below the top due to rope-drag etc.
||Pro-longing the anchor to avoid last move. Grabbing the anchor.|
|7. Flash/Onsight variations
Sometimes different routes have the same start or finnish.
|When the shared part of the climb is more than a full grade lower, i.e. a 6c start is divided into two 7c+'s.
||When the shared part of the climb is three steps lower, i.e. a 6b start is divided into two 7a's.
||When the neighbouring route gives beta/info on the route that will be climbed.|
To combine neighburing routes and add link-ups, new starts and finishes to existing routes.
|Create (1) much easier/ harder combination (new anchor) or variation with quality & new characteristics.
||Create (2) easier/harder combinations (new anchor) without a clear line, new characteristics or quality.
||Create (3) or more combinations, variations of the same grade and characteristics with no clear line. Downclimbing link-ups. Good training but not worth a name/grade.|