NEWS

Two 8B+'s and one 8A+ flash by Tamรกs Zupรกn
Tamas Zupan, who did his second 8C this spring after driving 7 000 km to it, has had his most productive bouldering days ever. During three days he did two 8B+'s, Phase 2 in Sustenpass, Entlinge in Murgtal and his first 8A+, God save the queen in Steingletscher. "Today the force is with me :) It has been my best climbing day ever." The picture is from Entlinge.

Two 8A (+)'s in Rocklands by Karo Sinnuber and Hannah Midtbรถ
Karo Sinnhuber, #5 in a Boulder WC this year, and Hannah Midtbรถ are having great days in Rocklands, having both done two 8A (+)'s, Nutsa and Tea with Elmaire. In the photo you can see Karo on Tea with Elmarie, which she actually did in just one session. "Fight of my life. but happy that i did it :-)"

9a (8c+) by Mar รlvarez (36)
Mar รlvarez, who works as a firefighter, has done Manu Lopez's Kif Kif demain 9a (8c+) in Bielsa. The 153 cm tall, who previously has done two 9aยดs, did it going straight up, eliminating a good rest to the right like the FA. In total she needed 17 days to take it down. - An excellent route that I have enjoyed since the first day. Thanks to Guillaume for bolting it, and the BTR team for being a source of inspiration and motivation.

9a FA by Jonathan Siegrist in Rawyl
Jonathan Siegrist has spent some time in Switzerland, where he has made the FA of Hyper Finale 9a in Rawyl. Photo by Fred Moix. This was actually the fourth 9a in Switzerland during the last six weeks. R&I Switzerland interview and more updates on JStar's blog

Projects up to 9c for Ondra in Flatanger
Adam Ondra is back home after the first trip to Flatanger this year and he speaks about the upcoming projects. (c) Petr Pavlรญฤek - Well, the projects are obvious, but the problem (or good thing?) is that they are super hard. The most feasible project is "Kangaroo Dyno", which includes dyno that is much harder than 3 Degrees of Separation dyno. I am pretty sure it is an 8A dyno single move, but you have to get there by climbing 8c+/9a. It will be probably 9b, but 9b which all about one dyno is super hard for me. The rest of the projects are even harder, such as "Change variation" 9b+ hard, and "Project Big" and "Project Hard", both possible 9c's. Especially Project Big is the LINE of the cave and the dream of my life, but I think it will take a few seasons, but let's see. I do not want to make too much pressure on myself, I will try the projects this summer a bit, but if they feel milion miles away, I will try my luck in the future. I am super happy as I have just finished first bachelor studies and after 3 years of hectic life I want to enjoy climbing outdoors to the fullest.

9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights
Adam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti." In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

Papichulo 9a+ by Klemen Becan
Klemen Becan has done his second 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana. The Slovenian was previously a successful competition climber, having won one event, but later he later became one of the best onsight climbers in the world. Last year, he has more focused on bolting and redpoint and once again, he becomes one of the best in the world. This summer he runs training camps with Chris Sharma. (c) Anja Becan - Tried it in the winter after Joe Mama 9a+ but too many people were trying it all the time. Not so motivating for me since I like to climb, so I abandoned project for a while :-) Now when conditions were perfect (after March) there were less people here and time to put more time in the route. So last month I came here once a week and made 2-3 trys in it (altogether arround 10 serious tries, 4 sessions). Today I basically surprised my self since I thought finally I can do some training attempts to get stronger and after I came over the crux I just crused over the rest of it without any big rest. The hardest part for me was still minichulo (first few meters) and I did this part only 2 or 3 times :-). At the end I was basically a bit disappointed since I was expecting a bigger fight in the route, but I guess all the training pays of

Ivaylo Fazata has done his second 9a FA, El Nino Ext. in Dryanovo. "If the world wants to finish NOW I am OK :) 60 moves power endurance beast on the highest quality rock at the crag. Ivaylo Krastev bolted the route and in 2007 climbed it one bolt before the chain, video RESPECT!!! Interesting is that Ivaylo has also done two 8c+ FAs and his personal best, repeating other routes is 8c.

In 2008 8a said that Rockfax/UKC must update their grade conversion, which they did later. Previously, the charts were constructed in such way that UK climbers were the only ones doing 8c+ and 9a trad routes. When Alex Honnold soloed The Complete Scream, UKC reported it as an E8, which according to their table is equivalent to a 7c, which we reported within brackets. Now it turns out that Alex thinks it is max an E6 and a 7a+.