
19 June 2016
Papichulo 9a+ by Klemen Becan
Klemen Becan has done his second 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana. The Slovenian was previously a successful competition climber, having won one event, but later he later became one of the best onsight climbers in the world. Last year, he has more focused on bolting and redpoint and once again, he becomes one of the best in the world. This summer he runs training camps with Chris Sharma. (c) Anja Becan
- Tried it in the winter after Joe Mama 9a+ but too many people were trying it all the time. Not so motivating for me since I like to climb, so I abandoned project for a while :-)
Now when conditions were perfect (after March) there were less people here and time to put more time in the route. So last month I came here once a week and made 2-3 trys in it (altogether arround 10 serious tries, 4 sessions).
Today I basically surprised my self since I thought finally I can do some training attempts to get stronger and after I came over the crux I just crused over the rest of it without any big rest. The hardest part for me was still minichulo (first few meters) and I did this part only 2 or 3 times :-). At the end I was basically a bit disappointed since I was expecting a bigger fight in the route, but I guess all the training pays of
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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12 July 2008
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1. Johanna Ernst (16) - Jorg Verhoeven
2. Angela Eiter - Sachi Anma
3. Mina Markovic - Klemen Becan
Complete results
Johanna, who also won the first WC event and who has won all the lead comps she has done, won in a superior style with 10 holds. Jorg, who was seventh into the final, won by 5 holds โฆ
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Boulder European Champions
1. Anna Stรถhr AUT, 3t5 4b6
2. Juliane Wurm GER, 3t13 4b14
3. Olga Shalagina, 2t2 3b5
4. Olga Bibik 5 Melissa Le Nevรฉ 6 Anna Gallyamova
More pics at Euro-2010.โฆ
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Campeonato Europeu de Boulder
1. Anna Stรถhr AUT, 3t5 4b6 Anna's website
2. Juliane Wurm GER, 3t13 4b14 Juliane's website
3. Olga Shalagina, 2t2 3b5
4. Olga Bibik 5 Melissa Le Nevรฉ 6 Anna Gallyamova
1. Cedric Lachat CHE, 4t5 4b5 Cedric's website
2. Adam Ondra CZE, 3t7 3b7
3. Kilian Fischhuber AUT, 2t5 3b6 Kilian's website
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