19 June 2016

Papichulo 9a+ by Klemen Becan

Klemen Becan has done his second 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana. The Slovenian was previously a successful competition climber, having won one event, but later he later became one of the best onsight climbers in the world. Last year, he has more focused on bolting and redpoint and once again, he becomes one of the best in the world. This summer he runs training camps with Chris Sharma. (c) Anja Becan - Tried it in the winter after Joe Mama 9a+ but too many people were trying it all the time. Not so motivating for me since I like to climb, so I abandoned project for a while :-) Now when conditions were perfect (after March) there were less people here and time to put more time in the route. So last month I came here once a week and made 2-3 trys in it (altogether arround 10 serious tries, 4 sessions). Today I basically surprised my self since I thought finally I can do some training attempts to get stronger and after I came over the crux I just crused over the rest of it without any big rest. The hardest part for me was still minichulo (first few meters) and I did this part only 2 or 3 times :-). At the end I was basically a bit disappointed since I was expecting a bigger fight in the route, but I guess all the training pays of
2 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
30 December 2023

Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

76
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
15 February 2024

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

43
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
20 February 2024

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

34
Related
9a FA by Kleman Becan - Water world
4 March 2014

9a FA by Kleman Becan - Water world

Kleman Becan has written a nice blog about his FA of Water World 9a in Osp. Klemen bolted it almost two years ago and at first he could only do two of the fir…

0
12 July 2011

World Champion Male Overall Rankings

Debate/Jens: Here are the favorites to win the Overall title. Who do you think will win? 1. Adam Ondra: Is he going for the trippel? 2. Cedric Lachat: #1 Euro Boulder -10, #1 Overall -07 3. Sean McColl: #1 Overall -09, 5 times Youth World Champ. 4. Klemen Becan: Twice #2 -11, Once #1 -08 in Lead. …

0
29 May 2011

Boulder WC Canada

1. Hori Tsukuru JPN - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2. Klemen Becan SLO - Anna Stöhr AUT 3. Sean McColl CAN - Jain Kim KOR Complete results Only five of the Top-10 in the male ranking participated in the last competition including WC leader Sharafutdinov but he will participate in Vail the next weekend..

0