NEWS

Almost 200 climbers competed in Warsaw Euro Youth Boulder Cup
Stasa Gejo was the most superior climber and winner in the European Youth Cup in Bouldering in Warsaw. She did all the 12 boulders, including onsighting all four final problems. She has won all the five Youth comps she has entered in last two years and her worst Boulder WC result, out of three, is #9. Several coaches mentioned that it was really well-organized and that the route setting was very good. However, the new final format with rotation start was a bit strange because the late starters could watch the early starters. An interesting fact about the competition in Warsaw is also that no nation dominated and that Eastern Europe seemed to be picking up again. 97: Stasa Gejo SRB - Simon Lorenzi BEL 99: Giorgia Tesio ITA - Marcus Nimrod ISR 01: Vanda Michalkova SVK - Sam Avezou FRA

Second 9a FA by Loic Zehani (14)
Loic Zehani, who did his first 9a being 13 years old but recorded it as an 8c+, has done his second 9a FA, L'enfance prolongรฉe in Orgon. - This is a route bolted by Thomas Sandri two years ago. It is a nice regular overhang, very resistant climbing on pockets with an section 7B+ FB in the middle. After this first 32 moves: It's "la belle enfance" (8c+). You have a rest. After that you have a nice part, less overhang on a nice black rock. This part (23 moves) is around 8a+. The first part took me 17 tries but I knew perfectly the second part and I don't fall in. I am so happy because it's THE LINE of this nice little sEctor of Orgon.The rock is completly different than the famous "canal" of Orgon.

Thor's Hammer 9a+ by Sachi Amma
Sachi Amma, one of the best climbers of several last years, reports on Facebook that he has done Thor's Hammer 9a+ in Flatanger. Adam Ondra did the FA of the 55 meters super steep line in 2012 and last year it has become the most often repeated 9a+ with seven ascents. (c) Eddie Gianelloni

9a FA by Thomas P. O'Halloran in Blue Mountains
Tom O'Halloran has done the FA of Baker's Dozen in Blue Mountains. - The route is a direct start into an already existing classic 7c. It has about 12m of independent climbing before reaching the upper slab of the 7c. I did bolt it and it took me 20+ days to complete. There is plenty more potential for hard routes in the Blue Mountains. I have at least 3 projects I have bolted that will be 9a and harder. Plus a whole bunch that will be about 8c+. I also have an 8 pitch multi pitch proj I have bolted which will have pitches up to about 8b+. My friends Lee and Ben Cossey also have lots of hard projects they have bolted that will be 9a and harder. The best part is that all these projects are less than 20 minute drive from my home. I just wish I could have more time to climb to try and get them done. Between work and being a father, it can be tricky to find enough days sometimes. But it just makes you want it more.

8B by Karoline Sinnhuber in Rocklands
karoline sinnhuber has done her second 8B, Fragile Steps in Rocklands and she goes to #3 in the ranking game. Pic from Caroline 7C+, which she did last week. - Started a solo mission very early due to hot temperatures. Shitty conditions today.. fell two days ago from the very end (with perfect conditions) so happy about the send :-)

Stefano Carnati has done Conde de Choc 9a in Entraygues. "Upper part in common with Deltaplane man direct 8c+ which I tried some times last year and sent today in the morning. Tried the first hard part once last year. Sent at 7.30 pm today! Of course I started with the third bold clipped."

8c+ by Yuji Hirayama (47) in Flatanger
Yuji Hirayama, one of the true legends in the climbing history, has done Odin's Eye 8c+ in Flatanger. In 1991 he got the silver in the World Lead Championship and later he won the Lead World Cup twice. After retiring from comps he made speed records on El capitain and did a 9a+ in 2003. Five years ago he explored and bolted a new climbing area up on 4 000 meters in Borneo with routes up to 9a+, where he made a 9a FA.

First 8b onsight by Alex Honnold and a 360 solo video
Alex Honnold, the world's most famous solo climber, has recorded his first 8b onsight, Spectrum in Lauterbrennen. Previously he has has onsighted three 8b's, for which he has given a personal grade. In fact, looking at his scorecard with 700 routes, he, together with Adam Ondra, is one of the guys who suggest most personal downgrades. Photo by Jimmy Chin. Check his 360 solo video where he presents The Needles.

3rd 8B in June by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus is peaking having done her third 8B in June, Don't Get To Greedy in RMNP. "Fun fun! squeezing and jumping." Isabelle is the new #1 in the 8a ranking game. Next week she is flying to Africa. Video