NEWS

Adam Mach Dolina Kluczwody

9a revenge for Stefano Ghisolfi
Stefano Ghisolfi, who was #2 in Chamonix and #9 in Villars, has done Condรฉ de choc in Entraygues. "Nice revenge after disappointing 9th place in World Cup. 3rd pre clipped for me too." The start has been graded as 8A+ and Adam Ondra has actually said that clipping the third quickdraw is the crux. If you miss it, you could even hit the ground. In the 8a Practice & Ethics we give a yellow card for "Two or three pre-clipped if it is for safety reason". Until like 15 years ago, climbing with three pre-clipped quickdraws would not count as a valid ascent but nowadays it is getting more common. It is great of Stefano to have gone public and it would be interesting to know the number of pre-clipped quickdraws by Tony Lamiche back in 2006. In the picture of Tony we can see that the third bolt is high above the second.

8B flash by Vadim Timonov
Vadim Timonov is having some great days in Rocklands, having done one 8B+ and five 8B's including the flash of Quintessential. "Small sharp crimps and coordinational dyno."

Vertical-Life is collaborating with local developers, climbing guide authors and climbers from all over the world for the development of a worldwide digital climbing guide. Send us your best pictures of bouldering in Cresciano, Chironico and Passo del Gottardo with information on the sector, name of the boulder, grade, photographer and climber. The best pictures will appear in the Vertical-Life app guide. You can count on our gratefulness: for the chosen pictures, we give away the corresponding topos of the area in the Vertical-Life App. Please send your photos to: [email protected]

Fanatic Climbing reports that Seb Bouin, who has done five routes 9a to 9b last year, has done Thor's Hammer in Flatanger, which was put up by Adam Ondra as a 9a+ and which has seen many repeats lately. Seb started working on the route last year and this year it took him five days to fight bad conditions and wet holds. He was also given a new sequence at one of the cruxes which makes the route 9a according to Adam and Seb.

Safety first on Outdoors
During Outdoors trades in Friedrichshafen, safety was in focus with the new Grigri from Petzl and the Revo from Wild Country beside some safer carabiners from several producers and more helmets. 8a will be sent products to test soon. We were very impressed with them all. We will present videos during the next few days. Petzl did also inform us that they have asked Petzl USA to check exactly what went wrong when Ashima fell to the ground from 14 meters. Other than that, more indoor focus with many hold manufacturers etc and an augumented climbing wall where boulder problems are lighted up via a projector connected to a computer with endless possibilities.

Award winners on Outdoors: La Sportiva and Edelrid
"Mythos Eco is the re-edition of the famous Mythos climbing shoe of the 80s, made with eco-friendly materials to minimize the environmental impact. The versatile shoe par excellence, it is suitable for long routes and to use on long walls thanks to the exceptional comfort fit. Almost all of the components (95%) used come from recycled materials and contribute to a reduced environmental impact. The La Sportiva Eco-Rubber outsole is obtained by recycling the rubber used in the production process at La Sportiva. Performance on holds and duration are equal to a standard compound but with reduced environmental impact." Edelrid also won awards for their harness of 80 grams and a balanced crash pad made of polystyrene balls in the bottom, which works very well even on bad landing zones.

The second Lead World Cup takes place in Villars in Switzerland and there will be live streaming on Saturday: 10.00 - 12.30 Semi and 20.00 Finals. Complete results