24 August 2016

The 2020 Combined Solution

The normal solution for calculating who should win the gold in Sport Climbing Combined would be to sum up the results from all three disciplines. This is also more or less how they do it in disciplines such as decathlon and triathlon - in terms no extra credit being given to the winner of one discipline. However, if IFSC stick with the actual scoring system that is adapted to 20 athletes, this is how it could look like: #1 = 100, #2 = 75, #3 = 60, #4 = 50... and #20 = 1. In practice, this would mean that the best guys like Adam Ondra would most probably get the Olympic gold if they win one discipline and take the third place in the other, at the same time being dead last in Speed. Measured by points they would get 161 points and so beat a guy being #4 in all three disciplines, as that person only gets 150 points. Basing on the more logical ranking score, Ondra would get 24 points clearly beating the triple fourth guy getting only 12 ranking points. It would be a bit peculiar about the point method that in fact until the qualifications are over, it would be more or less meaningless for all Boulder and Lead climbers to practice Speed. The reason for this is that the normal Speed climbers will anyhow most certainly get all high scores in that discipline. Once the qualifications are over, some of the 20 qualified may focus on Speed as winning that event in combination with just one Top-10 position, could actually give you an Olympic medal at some 120 points. An alternative to the scoring system, giving more or less the same results, would be to multiply the rankings in the three disciplines as it is done in Lead WC flash qualifications.
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