Climb Kalymnos reports that two new shady sectors have been opened near Arginonta with a total of some 40 routes. "Both new sectors were developed as part of the 2015/16 EU-funded maintenance and equipping project. The new cliffs fill a need on Kalymnos for more mid-grade climbs and more shade. With the vast majority of grades between 5c to 7a and shade from 10:00-16:00 at Black Buddha or from noon until the end of the day at Arginonta Valley, both new sectors are expected to become increasingly popular."

Giorgio Bendazzoli, who has done one 9a previously, has added his first Boulders after an intensive and rainy week in Magic Wood. In total, the 17-year-old did ten Boulders graded 8A to 8B including an 8A flash and Riverbed 8B. - The weather was a bit rainy but with good temperatures, we managed to climb always except one day..I am happy to have realised many boulders also in few tries even if Magic Wood was my first "real" time on rock...my best result was definitely river bad which came at the end of the day in very few tries...I'm looking forward to go back to magic as soon as possible! In the last European Youth Cup, the Italian was #3 and in last two years he has actually won one event. In the Combined 8a ranking game, Giorgio is #6 among the juniors.

Sonnie Trotter comments on Instagram that Alex Megos has had an amazing day in Canada doing two 9a's and one 8c+, "unquestionably the most OUTRAGEOUS day of sport climbing in Canadian history. Bunda de Fora 5.14d (3rd try) Kinder Surprise 5.14c (2nd try) and open project now called Full Nelson 5.14d (3rd try)."

Paul Robinson, who has done 87 Boulders 8B+ and harder including 19 FAs, is back from Chimanimani and the big news is that it is better and richer in stones than Rocklands. Unfortunately (or luckily) it is located some five hours south east of Harare, meaning it will probably only be a destination for exploring globetrotters like Paul and Jimmy Webb. Why have you decided to travel the world looking for new climbing destinations? I spent much of my early 20's traveling all over the world repeating many of the hardest blocs that had been established before me. It was an amazing experience but I wanted the feeling of establishing some of those lines myself. I started doing first ascents in established areas but soon started hearing about other far off destinations that I had to go see for myself. Finding an area with untouched rock is the best feeling in the world to me. I can't imagine anything better. I am addicted and finding places like Chimanimani in Zimbabwe just makes me want to keep searching further and further because I know there is so much more. Tell us more about Chimanimani in Zimbabwe. I first went to check out this area in 2015. I only went for a few days but was blown away by the potential that the area had to offer. I knew it would be a perfect section for the film. I invited a bunch of people to join me on the trip, but jimmy was the only one who had faith in me and joined me to check out this far off bouldering area. Chimanimani has the same or more potential than rocklands and on better rock. We spent two weeks up there climbing and filming our hearts out. I think people are going to be pretty surprised when they see some of the footage we come back with!

Toshi Takeuchi has done his third 8C of the last 12 months, Spray of Light in Rocklands, and he goes to #3 position in the 8a ranking game. "YESSS!! Total 4 days. Mental battle was over because of bad weather. I have still 7 days more. On to the next!!"

"First time ever using a kneepad!! What do you think? Cheat or part of climbing accessories? It makes this cool boulder (gliding through waves like dolphins) more 7B instead of 8A. I don't even know whether kneepads are allowed in competition!? My opinion seems split on the topic..." (c) Jon Glassberg Why should not kneepads be OK? The 8a opinion is very clear. OF COURSE A KNEEPAD IS OK! Actually, it would be funny to hear some arguments on why it should not be OK :)

Tom O'Halloran reveals how his Awesome Woodys portable hangboard has helped him to do a 9a FA in Blue Mountains. Tom says, "my work takes me all around Australia for weeks at a time. It can be lonely being far away from everything. But there is a bit of the familiar here with me, my Awesome Woodys Cliff Board Mini. I never leave home without it now. It’s there in my bag as a little reminder of home, of who I am, of what I do and, most importantly, what I want to do." "The Cliff Board allows me to connect with something I love. When I get back from a hard day of work, it can be tricky to find the motivation to train. But my Cliff Board sits there in the corner of my room, staring blankly back at me. ‘Come on Tom you’re a rock climber, not a lazy bones do nothinger, remember. Pick me up, grab the sling and set me up on the rafters outside.’" Video “When I’m at the cliff I can’t warm up properly without my Awesome Woodys Cliff Board. When I get to the cliff I’ll find a low first bolt or wrap a sling around a branch to clip my Cliff Board to. I start off with a few dead hangs on the jugs for a few seconds, then a few pull-ups. Once I feel like I have enough blood flowing through my arms I’ll start to slowly get recruited in my fingers. I’ll hang off the big edge for a second, rest for a few seconds and hang again. I’ll repeat this 5-6 times. I’ll then hang off the same edge for a few seconds longer than the first round, resting for about as long as I was hanging, repeating it 5-6 times. I’ll continue this until I’m hanging for 10 seconds at a time. After this, I’ll do a bunch of pull-ups on the same edge I have used already. I’m usually feeling pretty good and limber after this. If I need a little more I’ll move to a smaller edge or start doing some one arm hangs.” “Before a redpoint attempt I’ll do a few hangs and pull-ups on the smaller edges to wake up my fingers and arms. Pre redpoint warm ups are very undervalued. You are doing yourself a disservice by not getting yourself fully ready before pulling on. It would be like not putting your shoes and chalk bag on!”

Adam Ondra is back in Flatanger, where he is working on a potential 9c. As a preperation he did the FA of Valhalla. (c) Tendon/O. Simko - Odins Eye extension, all the way to the final rail of Thor's. Incredibly massive pitch of ultra tiring climbing, at least 65 meters. Possibly one of the harder 9a's, but not 9a+. Bolted by Joe Kinder

Chad Greedy reports on Instagram that Shawn Raboutou has done two 8C's in Rocklands; Monkey Wedding and Spray of Light. - He's on his way to becoming the champ ,, just has to do 'livingLarge' ,,, to become the king of the land. Shawn is a part of the possibly best climbing family in the world. His sister is Brooke, who did her first 8c being 11 years old and his father is Didier, one of the best rock and competition climbers during the 90s. His mother is Robyn Erbesfield, possibly the best female climber during the 90s, who later became one of the most successful trainers, and being 50+ she still does 8b.

Some 15 years ago I started saying that the grades in Ticino were exaggerated as I did not want to spread false info. Later I said the same thing about Rocklands Boulders. The reason for the grade inflation was that Boulders in these areas were steeper than most of the old school Fontainebleau ones. Today, with all the new boulder gyms and training boards it is in practice easier to be a good steep boulderer in comparison with what was 15 years ago. Based on the scorecard ascents in 2016, we can see that most of the previous personal downgrading suggestions have been confirmed. The guys who have been on the forefront giving us more correct grades are, among others: Adam Ondra, Dave Graham, Niccolo Ceria and James Webb.