NEWS

The normal solution for calculating who should win the gold in Sport Climbing Combined would be to sum up the results from all three disciplines. This is also more or less how they do it in disciplines such as decathlon and triathlon - in terms no extra credit being given to the winner of one discipline. However, if IFSC stick with the actual scoring system that is adapted to 20 athletes, this is how it could look like: #1 = 100, #2 = 75, #3 = 60, #4 = 50... and #20 = 1. In practice, this would mean that the best guys like Adam Ondra would most probably get the Olympic gold if they win one discipline and take the third place in the other, at the same time being dead last in Speed. Measured by points they would get 161 points and so beat a guy being #4 in all three disciplines, as that person only gets 150 points. Basing on the more logical ranking score, Ondra would get 24 points clearly beating the triple fourth guy getting only 12 ranking points. It would be a bit peculiar about the point method that in fact until the qualifications are over, it would be more or less meaningless for all Boulder and Lead climbers to practice Speed. The reason for this is that the normal Speed climbers will anyhow most certainly get all high scores in that discipline. Once the qualifications are over, some of the 20 qualified may focus on Speed as winning that event in combination with just one Top-10 position, could actually give you an Olympic medal at some 120 points. An alternative to the scoring system, giving more or less the same results, would be to multiply the rankings in the three disciplines as it is done in Lead WC flash qualifications.

Adam Ondra to compete in Arco
The fifth stage of the Lead World Cup takes place in Arco this Friday and Saturday and the interesting news is that Adam Ondra will participate. The live streaming starts at 12.00 on Saturday with the semi followed by the final at 20.00. Only two established Lead WC climbers, Charlotte Durif and David Firnenburg will also compete in Speed. The qualification begins at 9.30 on Saturday and then the participants have to go into the semi isolation at 11.00. On Sunday, the 30th edition of the Rockmaster will take place with KO boulder and Duel where ten qualified athletes will climb neck-to-neck and the fastest climber goes to the next round. In Bouldering, seven invited climbers including Adam Ondra will first train and then redpoint four Boulders and the lowest-ranked of them will be eliminated after each Boulder. In total, Adam Ondra could win 9 000 Euro if he wins all the three events.

Jan Kareลก, 42, sets new 6 h pull-up record = 3 569
jan kares, who was #17 in a Lead World Cup in 1998, has set a new Guiness World Record by doing 3 569 pull ups in six hours. The 42-year-old, weighing some 80 kilos, has since 2008 spent some 150 days bolting in Sardinia, paying everything by himself, and that is what he does all his vacations. - I love climbing this is only because some people invite me to events:-)) The record was a part of an event streamed live and Jan started with 500 sets of 5 pull-ups, followed by 300 sets of 4 pull-ups. He has been training and going for world records for the last seven years and he is also the current, one set, record holder with 232 pull-ups.

Here is a draft list of the best sport climbers in the world based on their all-round top performance in all disciplines, from bouldering to multi-pitch, including also competitions. Surely, several names are missing so please suggest names. UPDATE: Many names have been forwarded but all of them do not have any good senior WC results. 1. Adam Ondra 2. Lynn Hill 3. Yuji Hirayama 4. Catherine Destivelle 5. Jorg Verhoeven 6. David Lama 7. Chris Sharma 8. Nina Caprez 9. Edu Marin 10. Klemen Becan, Caroline Ciavaldini, Kilian Fischhuber, Dani Andrada, Cedric Lachat

Five Ten dominates Boulder WC 2016
Five Ten has published a nice wrap-up of the Boulder WC 2016, where they proudly say that it was dominated by Five Ten Athletes. In fact, among the male both #1 and #2, Narasaki and Fuji, as well as #1 and #3 among women, Coxsey and Le Neve, all wear Five Ten shoes. In the wrap-up, there is also a conversation with Melissa Le Neve where she explained her success by getting new motivation to train very hard, having fun as well as sacrificing outdoors climbing, which she will pick up again later this year.

Skofic & Rรถck win in Imst
Domen Skofic took his third victory in 2016 and levels up with his girlfriend Janja Garnbret, who was fifth after three straight victories, saying that she was so stressed about timing out. Anak Verhoeven was timed out even though she had a watch on her wrist and in fact, none of the female would have been able to reach the top within eight minutes. The wall in Imst is 21 meter high and rather vertical in the lower parts making it hard to climb fast. More great pics from (c) Eddie Fowke. 1. Domen Skofic SLO 53+ : Magdalena Rรถck AUT 56+ 2. Jakob Schubert AUT 53+ : Mina Markovic SLO 56 3. Gauthier Supper FRA 50 : Jain Kim KOR 56 Complete results Interestingly, all 16 finalist but one made it to hold 39 and in the end just the final itself took more than 2.5 hours.

1. Domen Skofic 325 - Janja Garnbret 351 2. Jakob Schubert 232 - Magdalenda Rรถck 271 3. Sean McColl 208 - Anak Verhoeven 255 4. Stefano Ghisolfi 201 - Jain Kim 250 5. Gauthier Supper 200 - Jessica Pilz 157 The fifth stage will take place in Arco this weekend.