NEWS

Dreamcatcher 9a in one day by Alex Megos
Alex Megos continues his rampage in Canada and does Chris Sharma's Dreamcatcher 9a in just one day, video, and he comments on Facebook. "This was the only route I knew when I came to Canada! And today I grabbed the 4th ascent of it in one day! "Deamcatcher" 5.14d (9a)!!! Super stoked to have climbed this world class route! One of the best of all time!" (c) Ken Etzel

Andrada and Markovic get the Arco Awards
Planet Mountain reports that Dani Andrada won the Salewa Rock Award and Mina Markovic won the La Sportiva Competition Award in the Arco Legends of fame. (c) Giulio Malfer Dani Andrada (41) is the legend that has bolted most hard core routes in the world and it is mainly thanks to him that the crags around Lleida have been the hardcore epicentrum of the world. Previously and since 2006, the Awards have been given based on the last year performances but clearly, they changed it in order to not give Adam Ondra his fifth award. The Czech has done many more hard routes compared to Andrada as well as bolting at least last year.

16 double tops in Arco - Semi Live at 12 and Final at 20
In contrast to Imst last weekend with only two double tops in the qualifications, nine male and seven female topped both routes in Arco, including Adam Ondra who did his debut in the WC 2016. Here is a video from Arco where he talks about what he has been up to lately. Qualification results. The only two top climbers who also go for the Speed, Charlotte Durif and David Firnenburg, qualified as #23 and #30 respectively. Charlotte had also the best result being #24 out of 29 in the Speed with 10.54. Live-streaming of the Semi starts at 12. The Speed final starts at 18.15 and the Lead Final 20.00.

Two 8a+ onsights by Jan Vopat (13)
Jan Vopat has onsighted Mal Amores and Montserrat, both 8a+, in Rodellar, meaning that during the last two weeks the 13-year-old has onsighted six routes graded 8a to 8b. In the 8a ranking game, The Czech is #1 among the 14-year-olds and #13 in the overall junior ranking.

The normal solution for calculating who should win the gold in Sport Climbing Combined would be to sum up the results from all three disciplines. This is also more or less how they do it in disciplines such as decathlon and triathlon - in terms no extra credit being given to the winner of one discipline. However, if IFSC stick with the actual scoring system that is adapted to 20 athletes, this is how it could look like: #1 = 100, #2 = 75, #3 = 60, #4 = 50... and #20 = 1. In practice, this would mean that the best guys like Adam Ondra would most probably get the Olympic gold if they win one discipline and take the third place in the other, at the same time being dead last in Speed. Measured by points they would get 161 points and so beat a guy being #4 in all three disciplines, as that person only gets 150 points. Basing on the more logical ranking score, Ondra would get 24 points clearly beating the triple fourth guy getting only 12 ranking points. It would be a bit peculiar about the point method that in fact until the qualifications are over, it would be more or less meaningless for all Boulder and Lead climbers to practice Speed. The reason for this is that the normal Speed climbers will anyhow most certainly get all high scores in that discipline. Once the qualifications are over, some of the 20 qualified may focus on Speed as winning that event in combination with just one Top-10 position, could actually give you an Olympic medal at some 120 points. An alternative to the scoring system, giving more or less the same results, would be to multiply the rankings in the three disciplines as it is done in Lead WC flash qualifications.

Adam Ondra to compete in Arco
The fifth stage of the Lead World Cup takes place in Arco this Friday and Saturday and the interesting news is that Adam Ondra will participate. The live streaming starts at 12.00 on Saturday with the semi followed by the final at 20.00. Only two established Lead WC climbers, Charlotte Durif and David Firnenburg will also compete in Speed. The qualification begins at 9.30 on Saturday and then the participants have to go into the semi isolation at 11.00. On Sunday, the 30th edition of the Rockmaster will take place with KO boulder and Duel where ten qualified athletes will climb neck-to-neck and the fastest climber goes to the next round. In Bouldering, seven invited climbers including Adam Ondra will first train and then redpoint four Boulders and the lowest-ranked of them will be eliminated after each Boulder. In total, Adam Ondra could win 9 000 Euro if he wins all the three events.

Jan Kareลก, 42, sets new 6 h pull-up record = 3 569
jan kares, who was #17 in a Lead World Cup in 1998, has set a new Guiness World Record by doing 3 569 pull ups in six hours. The 42-year-old, weighing some 80 kilos, has since 2008 spent some 150 days bolting in Sardinia, paying everything by himself, and that is what he does all his vacations. - I love climbing this is only because some people invite me to events:-)) The record was a part of an event streamed live and Jan started with 500 sets of 5 pull-ups, followed by 300 sets of 4 pull-ups. He has been training and going for world records for the last seven years and he is also the current, one set, record holder with 232 pull-ups.