NEWS

In order to be ranked in the Combined World Cup, you need to have results in two disciplines. From the results 2016 we can see that only a couple of male and female have actually gotten semi results during 2016. In previous years, more athletes did compete successfully in both Lead and Boulder but now it seems that almost everyone has chosen to specialize in just one discipline. In fact, the only two athletes that have participated in more than two events in at least two disciplines are Sean McColl and Jakob Schubert. Not one female has actively competed in two or more disciplines. The combined format failure in the World Cup 2016 is confirmed. By checking the starting list for the World Championship you can see that only Sean McColl and Charlotte Durif have signed up by the guys who regularly do the semis in at least two disciplines. Could this be considered as a silent protest towards the Olympic Combined format?

The WideBoyz go for a mono 8c+ roof crack
Five Ten talks about WideBoyz', Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall's, new secret trad project in The White Rim in Monument Basin - The Crucifix. The mono roof crack is estimated to be an 8a into an 8B+ Boulder into an 8b meaning it should be at least 8c+. Previously the Wideboyz were famous for putting up The Century Crack 8c, which goes in a 40 meter roof. It took them two years including working on an almost exact replica. The only 8c+ trad route in the world is Beth Rodden's Meltdown.

9a FA in Rodellar by Dani Fuertes
Dani Fuertes has done his fifth 9a in 2016, the FA of Siempre inconformado in Rodellar and he goes to #6 in the 8a ranking game. Photo by Silvia Borgoรฑon - The route is an old project from Dani Andrada and it shares the start with Siempre libre 9a. After a very hard crux, you climb the last moves of the route Inconformistas 9a. Without a doubt the more difficult sequence of moves of these routes. 25 meters makes up this incredible route in the roof of that cave.

Are knee pads getting too good?
Send Climbing has sent us some knee pads to try out and they are actually so confident that they present it as "The Downgrader". Earlier this summer Jorg Verhoeven actually gave an Hueco Tanks 8A a personal grade of 7B because of using a knee pad. Some have actually said knee pads are getting so good that they should be forbidden both on rock and in competitions and Send Climbing's super sticky version belongs to this group. 8a can just agree that this is the best knee pad we have ever tested and it is also very user friendly. We can also agree on all their listed selling points.

The future of climbing guidebooks is (also) digital
The well-known German publishing house Panico Alpinverlag has started a long-term partnership with Vertical-Life, developer of the fastest growing digital guidebook app. 13 Panico guides of the most important areas in Germany have already been digitalized, as reported by Vertical-Life. More are to follow soon. The available app guides include the brand new 10th edition of the Frankenjura guides by Sebastian Schwertner. The Vertical-Life App now covers more than 2,000 Sport Climbing, Bouldering and Multipitch spots all over Europe, as well as Yosemite. Climbing guide authors can contact [email protected] for more information on cooperation opportunities. Download the App here.

8A by Angie Scarth-Johnson (12)
Angelina Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c route when she was 9 years old, has done two 7C+ Boulders and Panoptikum 8A. "The Cruxs is trying to stay off the ground."

Balรกzs Kovรกcs (45) crushes harder and harder
Balรกzs Kovรกcs started climbing in 1996 being 25 years old, when they opened one of the very first climbing gyms in Hungary. He started training and climbing more seriously some years later, and became successful on 7C Boulders and 8a Routes while working as an electrician and being a father of two girls. At the age of 43, he did his very first 7C+ Boulder and he is still progressing. In this picture, you can see him on one of his hardest projects, an 8b+, and he is very close on it.

First 8C by Matt Fultz
Having done seven 8B+'s, out of which four were FAs,Matt Fultz has done his first 8C, The Wheel of Wolvo in Mt Evans. "Wow, such an amazing boulder! Sent in 5 days over the course of a week. Definitely my style and so much fun to work on! New beta may make it easier, but we will see what other repeaters think." Interestingly, the 25-year-old has had six years of continuous progress and he is currently #8 in the 8a ranking game.

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Chipping of an old 8b in La Balme
Fanatic climbing reports that Genesis, a very sandbagged 8b in La Balme, with just three ascents in ten years, has been chipped this summer, which added six newly drilled holds. It was Mathieu Bouyoud who found that it was chipped and then he forwarded his critical thoughts. Some 25 years ago, it was quite popular to chip routes in France. A good example are most of the hard core routes in Gorges du Loup, which have drilled holds. 8a has been active trying to stop chipping and you can even mark chipped routes in the scorecard. Hopefully, FAs do not want to be on that list and actually Adam Ondra has been active reporting chipped routes. Another way of stopping chipping could be for topo authors to mark them them as chipped, just next to the FA name. 8a also try to avoid reporting chipped ascents. It should be emphasised that chipping an old and climbable route is probably as low as you can reach in the terms of climbing ethics.