
30 August 2016
Chipping of an old 8b in La Balme
Fanatic climbing reports that Genesis, a very sandbagged 8b in La Balme, with just three ascents in ten years, has been chipped this summer, which added six newly drilled holds. It was Mathieu Bouyoud who found that it was chipped and then he forwarded his critical thoughts.
Some 25 years ago, it was quite popular to chip routes in France. A good example are most of the hard core routes in Gorges du Loup, which have drilled holds. 8a has been active trying to stop chipping and you can even mark chipped routes in the scorecard. Hopefully, FAs do not want to be on that list and actually Adam Ondra has been active reporting chipped routes. Another way of stopping chipping could be for topo authors to mark them them as chipped, just next to the FA name. 8a also try to avoid reporting chipped ascents.
It should be emphasised that chipping an old and climbable route is probably as low as you can reach in the terms of climbing ethics.
22 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
5 October 2008
Mathieu Bouyoud (18) onsight 8b+
Mathieu Bouyoud (18) have onsighted in Hulkosaure, 8b+ in Verdon. Mathieu advances to #9 in the world ranking.
8 February 2009
8b+ OS by Mathieu Bouyoud
Mathieu Bouyoud has onsighted his first 8b+, Drop city in Geyik bayiri. (Grades between 8a+ and 8c have been suggested). He also onsighted two 8a+' and he goes to #9 in the ranking.
22 August 2009
Three 8b's OS by Mathieu Bouyoud (19)
Mathieu Bouyoud has onsighted three 8b's in Rodellar; La Banda, Alter Ego and BTR. The 19-year-old is #6 in the world ranking.
Related news
5 October 2008
Mathieu Bouyoud (18) onsight 8b+
Mathieu Bouyoud (18) have onsighted in Hulkosaure, 8b+ in Verdon. Mathieu advances to #9 in the world ranking.
8 February 2009
8b+ OS by Mathieu Bouyoud
Mathieu Bouyoud has onsighted his first 8b+, Drop city in Geyik bayiri. (Grades between 8a+ and 8c have been suggested). He also onsighted two 8a+' and he goes to #9 in the ranking.
22 August 2009
Three 8b's OS by Mathieu Bouyoud (19)
Mathieu Bouyoud has onsighted three 8b's in Rodellar; La Banda, Alter Ego and BTR. The 19-year-old is #6 in the world ranking.
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


