NEWS

9a again by Daniel Fuertes and Josรฉ luis Palao
Daniel Fuertes and Josรฉ luis Palao, in the picture by Javi Pec, have done Autoengaรฑo 9a in Rodellar. In total, Daniel has done six 9a's just in 2016 and for Josรฉ it was the second one as he also did Siempre inconformistas last week.

2nd 8c for Martina Cufar Potard (39)
Martina Cufar Potard, the World Champion 2001, has done her second 8c, Max Power in Bionnassay. "Hard for me (crux being a long move)!!! I didn't count the tries...but I knew the moves before I even tried it, when belaying Nico 5 years ago (pregnant) when he did the FA. He told me I am supposed to do the first female ascent...it took me one summer of serious tries:-)" The Slovenian did her first 8c in 2005, at the same time as she finished her very successful competition career, which started some 20 years ago. Martina was the first world class competition climber from Slovenia. It is also interesting that she just climbs and does some campus only once in a while. In total, she projected the 8c for some 20+ sessions but now she says will be back on onsight mode again.

TNF Festival below The Eiger with 500 participants
Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland โ€“ 500 people from 21 different countries, some as from far away as the USA and Canada to Hong Kong, descended upon The North Face Mountain Festival over the weekend for three days of intense outdoor adventure and exploration. Massive 70 plus activities were completed, which included everything from trail running, climbing and hiking, to paragliding, canyon jumping, canyoning, rafting and alpinism. Away from the outdoor pursuits, festival goers could enjoy all that the eventโ€™s Base Camp had to offer โ€“ the aim being to inspire, learn and celebrate after returning from the mountains. Inspiration started in the form of tales from the brandโ€™s athlete team, such as Simone Moro and Tamara Lungerโ€™s first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. Foodies could learn how to transform basic food supplies into tasty and nutrious meals to fuel their bodies during an expedition. Creative minds learned how to best capture the great outdoors through a photography workshop. Performance obsessed explorers discovered new ways to preprare their bodies for the mountain. Finally, there was a chance to celebrate the dayโ€™s events and stunning surroundings with locally sourced food and drinks, live bands, and DJs.

Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a this spring, being 14 years old, has made an one day ascent of Redbull 8c in Collepardo, where she also onsighted an 8a. The 15-year-old is in the #1 in the female ranking game as well as in the overall Age & Gender ranking where Adam Ondra is #2. "On my second go I fell on the last move. The next try I felt more tired but fought until the chain sending my first 8c in a day. The route is about 20-25 meters long with a hard boulder in the last meters. Now I am training for the world championship in November in China. it will be the last competition of the season and then I hope I will be able to climb on rock and to find a new hard project."

Sharma fell about 30 times from 18 meters on Alasha (9b?)
Imagine, spending about 20 days, mainly alone, and falling like 20 times from 18 meters down into the Mediterranean sea. The impact hitting the water is enormous and a bit dangerous, but even so, when Chris Sharma reached the surface he couldn't stop swimming around looking for a new crux sequence. After ten more monster whippers, he decided to rappel down finding out that it was an 8B Boulder! Could you please explain how you projected Alasha from when you found it? I found the wall about five or six years ago. Miquel Riera and I did a reconnaissance mission where we swam about 6 kilometers scoping out all the caves and walls. After seeing this line from below I inevitably had to rappel in to see the line and holds better. I then began trying the route from the bottom. However after trying for many days over several trips I realized that my effort was a bit hopeless unless I came back with a rope and really figured the moves out. So this September I came and spent about 7-8 days just working the upper section on rappel. The crux sequence is so tricky for the feet and body positions and is very powerful for the fingers. Bit by bit though I started to understand the moves better and better until I felt like I could give some good goes. It was a very special morning when I sent. With just my buddy Ricardo filming and the waves crashing. One of my top 10 moments in climbing for sure!

Narasaki & Ganbret Adidas Rock Stars
Once again, Adidas Rockstars pulled off an amazing show, which as always finished with a superfinal, where two finalists battled the last Boulder on time. As for the female, it actually took Janja Garnbret 4+ minutes while Tomoa Narasaki needed just 16 seconds. Tomoa has previousy won both the WC and the World Championship whereas Janja is on one of the top positions in the Lead WC and won the World Championship. The runner-ups were Jessica Pilz and Jan Hojer. In total, 72 athletes from 22 countries were invited. During the qualification and semi, normal IFSC rules applied. In the final with 3 500 spectators, a knock-out format was used and only three competitors remained after the first two Boulders. The fourth Boulder was a superfinal for the two best.

8A+ by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk in Grampians
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has done Silver Platter 8A+ in Grampians. "Very satisfying as a last day send! In between rain showers, being keen paid off!" Here is her blog report about her two month long trip, including also sending Punks in the Gym 8b+, with David Mason, who took the picture of her on So you think you can dance 8A.

Chris Frick is peaking at 48
Chris Frick (48) started climbing in 1982. By doing Enfant de Bohรจme 8c at Basler Jura in 2015 and then Goldfinger 8c at Gimmelwald in August he reached a personal best. Some days ago he did his 300th route in the realm of the french eighth grade. - Progressing at 45+ is still possible. It's all about motivation and love for climbing. One can't neglect busy times with family, job, etc. But take care of yourself. Climbing means life quality. After a surgery (labrum fixation) four years ago I tried to redefine my climbing. Clear structure in days on and off helps as well as intelligent training including antagonist and stretching exercises. Most important was to get rid of so-called energy vampires in life, work and food. I found vegan nutrition works best for me. Weight control is now a piece of cake (-10 kg!). All this resulted in an energy blast that now holds on since two years. If you feel the fire inside, then go and live your dreams. Don't be stupid and say you're too old and get trapped in convenience and passiveness. To be still on is great. Enjoy life!

ลukasz Dudek had done 13 routes graded 9a before doing Obsession, a very long roof 8C Boulder. During 2016, Dudek has also done some multi-pitches up to 8b+, although he took a bad fall once. Planet Mountain has the MP story.