NEWS

Narasaki & Ganbret Adidas Rock Stars
Once again, Adidas Rockstars pulled off an amazing show, which as always finished with a superfinal, where two finalists battled the last Boulder on time. As for the female, it actually took Janja Garnbret 4+ minutes while Tomoa Narasaki needed just 16 seconds. Tomoa has previousy won both the WC and the World Championship whereas Janja is on one of the top positions in the Lead WC and won the World Championship. The runner-ups were Jessica Pilz and Jan Hojer. In total, 72 athletes from 22 countries were invited. During the qualification and semi, normal IFSC rules applied. In the final with 3 500 spectators, a knock-out format was used and only three competitors remained after the first two Boulders. The fourth Boulder was a superfinal for the two best.

8A+ by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk in Grampians
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has done Silver Platter 8A+ in Grampians. "Very satisfying as a last day send! In between rain showers, being keen paid off!" Here is her blog report about her two month long trip, including also sending Punks in the Gym 8b+, with David Mason, who took the picture of her on So you think you can dance 8A.

9b? DWS FA by Chris Sharma on Mallorca
Chris Sharma opened the DWS Es Pontas ten years ago. No grade suggestion was forwarded but he agreed that it might be a 9b and in fact nobody has come close to repeating it. Now Chris reports on Facebook that he has done something similar. (c) Adrian Garcia "Last week I was able to send a long term project that I'd been trying over the last 5 years on the northwest coast of Mallorca. In honor of my beautiful daughter I named the line #Alasha. So proud of this one. I really had to work hard, dig deep and pull out all the tricks in the book. As you can see it's quite a stunning piece of stone in a very epic location. It's a very different style to Es Pontas but I'd say it's somewhere in the similar difficulty range. In this picture I'm entering the crux boulder sequence (maybe around 8B) at about 18 meters high. Somewhat auspicious was the fact I sent it around the 10 year anniversary of my ascent of Es Pontas . As time passes , it's crazy to see so many things change and yet the passion is still quite the same. Life is good! A nice note to be entering the climbing season on! So much gratitude to my wife."

ลukasz Dudek had done 13 routes graded 9a before doing Obsession, a very long roof 8C Boulder. During 2016, Dudek has also done some multi-pitches up to 8b+, although he took a bad fall once. Planet Mountain has the MP story.

Chris Frick is peaking at 48
Chris Frick (48) started climbing in 1982. By doing Enfant de Bohรจme 8c at Basler Jura in 2015 and then Goldfinger 8c at Gimmelwald in August he reached a personal best. Some days ago he did his 300th route in the realm of the french eighth grade. - Progressing at 45+ is still possible. It's all about motivation and love for climbing. One can't neglect busy times with family, job, etc. But take care of yourself. Climbing means life quality. After a surgery (labrum fixation) four years ago I tried to redefine my climbing. Clear structure in days on and off helps as well as intelligent training including antagonist and stretching exercises. Most important was to get rid of so-called energy vampires in life, work and food. I found vegan nutrition works best for me. Weight control is now a piece of cake (-10 kg!). All this resulted in an energy blast that now holds on since two years. If you feel the fire inside, then go and live your dreams. Don't be stupid and say you're too old and get trapped in convenience and passiveness. To be still on is great. Enjoy life!

22 September 2016

Age & Gender Ranking

We have played with the rankings giving 150 points extra per year once you turn 36, 250 extra points for every year if you are younger than 19 and also 1 000 bonus points for female. 13 840 Adam Ondra 1993 - 11 900 Isabelle Faus 1993 13 832 Laura Rogora 2001 - 11 853 Alex Puccio 1989 13 193 Loic Zehani 2001 - 11 786 James Webb 1987 13 150 Ramรณn Puigblanque 1981 - 11 700 Ryuichi Murai 1994 13 050 Jakob Kronberger 2001 - 11 532 M Mascarenas 1997 13 045 Chuck Odette 1955 - 11 500 Toshi Takeuchi 1986 Further down in the list there are many names very high up in the ranking that have not been in the headlines yet, like: Franz Fackler (56), Ida Kups (17), Anna Enrich (54), Steve Crow (59), Amelia Marcusson (14) and Toma Strnad (41).

8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle
22 September 2016

8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle

Ethan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown. - This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor. On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

News.gtp.gr comes with the very sad news that Ryan Air will stop their flights to Kos next year. Already this year they cancelled several flights and it is said that there are about 20% less climbers on the island.

8C in Rocklands by Ryuichi Murai
Ryuichi Murai has done his fourth 8C this year by Spray of Lights in Rocklands. "I managed to climb this king line after 4days working. Extreme smearing made me excited!!" During the last two weeks he has sent eight Boulders graded 8B and harder and he is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Check out his Facebook account with many short Instagram videos.

8B+ FA in Malatal by Christof Rauch
Christof Rauch, who did 81 Boulders 8A and harder just last year, has done the FA of The Source 8B+ in Malatal. In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #4. "A new Kingline is born! My best first ascent ever! Beside the "Bรผgeleisen" (new video is out) this is the best line in the valley! Did it on the last go of the day, after falling 5 times on the last hard move. Really surprised myself to stick the last move at this try. Can't be more psyched. Onto the next!"